HOMEBREW Digest #5408 Mon 01 September 2008
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org
Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********
DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:
HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309
or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************
Contents:
Re: Pansy Water ("Michael P. Thompson")
Scott/Linda Bruslind comments (Fred M. Scheer)
Potassium Pansy Water ("A.J deLange")
RO Installation ("Jeff Dieterle")
Color Paper ("A.J deLange")
Potassium Pansy Water (John & Joy Vaughn)
Slightly Off-Topic Request... ("Lee Hiers")
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org
If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!
To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
"subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
for the automation - that's your job.
HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.
LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.
The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.
More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.
JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 23:00:34 -0600
From: "Michael P. Thompson" <thompson at ecentral.com>
Subject: Re: Pansy Water
On Aug 31, 2008, at 9:09 PM, Request Address Only - No Articles wrote:
> Rather than
> removing the water softener perhaps you can tap into the system in
> front
> of it. In well installations there is usually a drain valve for the
> pressure tank which can be accessed. In any case a saddle valve (used
> for connecting ice makers humidifiers, etc.) can be installed
> upstream.
> Another alternative, usually available in modern softeners, is a built
> in bypass valve which you could operate while drawing brewing water
> and
> restore to its normal position when finished. SWMBO wouldn't even have
> to know this has been done.
You know, I wondered about that. When I was growing up, we had a
water softener, but there was a separate tap on our kitchen sink for
drinking water, since the softened water doesn't have a particularly
pleasant taste. Even if not, the saddle valve, or needle valve would
be an easy option, though I don't think they're made to turn on and
off a lot, so you might want a shutoff valve somewhere in the line.
It's an easy install. You just bolt the thing to a cold water pipe
somewhere before the softener, then turn the needle valve until it
pierces the pipe. Attach a bit of copper or plastic tubing with a
shutoff valve at the end, and then open the needle back up to allow
the water to flow. Fill your brewing vessel from the shutoff valve.
It's like a ten-minute job and doesn't affect the plumbing at all.
- --
Doras Cuil Travel--Your one-stop travel source
Do you like to travel? How about wholesale, AND tax-deductible? Ask
me how.
http://www.dorascuil.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 12:20:56 +0000
From: fredscheer07 at comcast.net (Fred M. Scheer)
Subject: Scott/Linda Bruslind comments
HI:
Yes, Scott, the Abstract is free when one goes to the
ASBC web site. To read the full article, one needs
sign in name and password.The web site you are referring to [MBAA],
had nothing to do with Herr Langes beer color article,
it is simple a link to a new committees web site on the MBAA web.
I stated that the article from AJ was in the ASBC, not MBAA.
Just a correction for you, Herr Bruslind.
Cheers,
Fred
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 08:37:21 -0400
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Potassium Pansy Water
John asks about iron laden well water run through an ion exchanger which
swaps Mg and Ca for potassium (K) rather than sodium. These exchangers
may be better for you health (arguably) but they are no better for
brewing in fact from the brewing perspective they are every bit as bad
as sodium based exchangers. So the advice is essentially the same as
given to Sam. Tap off in front, have that water analyzed and procede
from there. The iron is, of course, a potential problem in this case. If
it is enough that the water is cloudy or that you can taste the iron it
will ruin beer and must be removed. Fortunately this is relatively easy
to do. One approach is to install a separate iron removal unit in front
of the water softener and tap off between the two. These are either
aeration based or greensand based - see your water treatment company who
will know what works best in your area. Given that the water out of the
softener is adequate the iron level probably isn't that high so you
probably don't need an elaborate iron unit but the first step in any of
this is understanding the incoming water. If you don't want to spend the
money for a separate iron unit for the relatively small volume of
brewing water you can remove the iron yourself. Buy a reasonably hefty
pump (such as sold at Home Depot etc with hose fittings) and a shower
head or other spray nozzle of some sort. Draw the brewing water into a
large vessel of some sort and then pump it out of the vessel, through
the pump and shower head back into the vessel. IOW recirculate it
through the shower head for say 15 minutes. This will get it well
oxygenated causing "clear water iron" to oxidize and raise the pH (from
loss of CO2 which wells usually have a lot of with consequently low pH)
which helps the formation of insoluble ferric hydroxide. Filter the
recirculated water through a layer of clean sand (play sand from HD is
suitable). Ugly brown gunk (the Fe(OH)3) will be deposited on the sand
and the water which runs through should be clear of iron. The sand can
be washed and used for this purpose again.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 08:56:34 -0500
From: "Jeff Dieterle" <djdieterle at hughes.net>
Subject: RO Installation
A snippet of A.J. Delang's response to the Pansy Water thread,
"Another option is to install an RO device (in front of the softener) to
obtain RO water for blending or for use with salt additions to approximate a
desired ion profile."
I thought the RO filter should be after the softener to lengthen the life of
the filters in the RO unit as it would strip all(or nearly all) the minerals
out of the water anyway.
Another question for A.J., when diluting your brew water with tap water are
the proportions of minerals reduced at the same percent as the RO addition,
i.e., if I add 50% RO does the mineral content drop by half across the
board.
Jeff Dieterle
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.362)
Database version: 5.10600
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 10:06:39 -0400
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Color Paper
Further to the kind words (thanks) of Fred and Scott: I've sent a
proposed new MOA (Beer 10D) and a spreadsheet that does all the
calculations (similar to the one in the current Beer 10C) off to the
Technical Committee so it's in the works. What, if anything, comes out
of the works remains to be seen. If anyone wants a copy of the MOA drop
me a line. The spreadsheet is at www.wetnewf.org as are the slides from
last year's ASBC conference at which I first presented this (although
the basic idea was presented to the hombrewing community first at MCAB 4
in 2002). I also have a limited number of reprints of the paper so if
anyone wants one let me know (I no longer own the copyright so I can't
post it).
Now what this is all about (and I've posted on it here several times
before) is that ideally beer acts as if all its coloring components are
in the same relative proportions to one another irrespective of how
light or dark the beer is IOW all that changes is the total amount. Thus
to measure the color of beer, all we need to do is know the optical
absorption at one wavelength. This is the basis of SRM measurement (done
at 430nm) invented shortly after WWII. A consequence of the
proportionality aspect would be that the normalized (by the absorbtion
reading at 430nm) spectra of all beers are the same. Thus knowing what
the SRM value (proportional to the absorbtion at 430 nm) is one can
reconstruct the spectrum. With the spectrum in hand, one can calculate
tristimulus color for any set of viewing conditions (observer, path,
illuminant). As the SRM number doesn't mean much to people in terms of
what one actually sees, interest in tristimulus color is increasing in
the industry. MOA Beer -10C calculates tristimulus (from the complete
spectrum) for a particular set of conditions (10deg observer, illuminant
C, 1 cm path) and reports it as 3 numbers (L,a,b). This is fine for the
lab itself which still has the spectrum data (81 numbers) but not for
anyone else who might want to know what the beer looks like in a 5 cm
glass, for example. Under the assumptions above, the SRM would be more
valuable for that purpose.
In the real world beer coloration does not behave ideally but quite
close to it. SRM carries more than 90% of spectrum information and with
well behaved beers it is possible to get a surprisingly accurate
tristimulus (L,a,b) color representation from just SRM. The challenge is
to pick up the rest of the color variation and doing that using
principal components anaylsis of the beer spectrum is what the paper is
about. What this means practically is that a recent pilsner of mine
which would have been reported as SRM 7.20 (by MOA Beer-10A) in days of
yore or more recently as L = 90.56, a = -1.66, b = 38.37 (by MOA
Beer-10C) would now be given (by the proposed MOA Beer-10D) as SRM 7.20,
-0.4, 0 i.e. by tacking a couple of extra numbers which quantify the
deviation of the spectrum from the ideal on after the SRM. From this set
of numbers one can calculate Lab (or Luv, or RGB) for any viewing
conditions e.g. 7.4 cm glass, 2 degree observer, light with a color
temperature of 7523K: L=56.2 , a = 26.7, b=84.2.
Miller and Stone (the guys who came up with the SRM) recognized the
nearly ideal behaviour if not its full significance. They rejected any
beer which deviated by more than a specified amount from the ideal as
being unsuitable for characterization by the SRM (a fact that is little
remembered these days). What I am doing here is completing (with,
relative to 60 years ago, incredibly powerful computing and measuring
resources) that little extra bit that they left undone i.e. quantifying
and coding the deviation of beers they would have rejected.
A.J.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 07:35:33 -0800
From: John & Joy Vaughn <hogbrew at mtaonline.net>
Subject: Potassium Pansy Water
I am on a well and have iron in my water. My water conditioner uses
potassium chloride and removes the iron and softens the water. What
should I do with my water?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 19:25:42 -0400
From: "Lee Hiers" <aa4ga at contesting.com>
Subject: Slightly Off-Topic Request...
Hi y'all...
I'm looking for two tickets to the sold-out Asheville NC Brewgrass
festival (Sept. 20) if anyone has a line on these. Sadly, I must
resort to micro-brew since it has been several years since I brewed.
Thanks,
Lee
- --
Lee Hiers
"Have Dobro Will Travel"
------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5408, 09/01/08
*************************************
-------
