FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org
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Contents:
The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer ("Dave Larsen")
re: Brew pub in seattle ("Mike Sharp")
Efficiency and astringency ("Jason Gazeley")
Recirculation rate? ("Jason Gazeley")
Grain Mill Gaps ("LANCE HARBISON")
Hefeweizen yeast experiment ("Mike Maag")
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:59:19 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer
>
> I have 15 or more vials of yeast in the fridge waiting to be used and I am
> thinking it is time to start over! I have other club members that do the
> same as I do.......at the price of hops and grain, today, I question
> whether or not it is worth saving $6.00 on the yeast?! Interested in your
> comments!
>
It is not worth saving $6.00 on yeast to risk tossing a batch.
On a related subject, that statement kind of got me thinking about the
actual cost of a batch of beer. Not only do you have to factory in
the rising cost of grain and hops, you also have to consider
equipment, such as, for me, a conical fermenter, temperature
controller, refrigerator, two stainless-steel pots, mash tun, kegs,
kegerator, regulator, and so on. All that has to be added to each
batch of beer, and I don't have a lot of volume going through that
equipment, so the cost is pretty high. I came to the conclusion a
long time ago that the homebrewing hobby will never save you money on
beer.
This is what I came up with as a ballpark for the cost of a batch of
beer (for me, at least). I figure that I've spent $3820 on equipment
and ingredients for 34 batches of beer. That comes out to $112.35 per
five gallon batch. Each five gallon batch produces 53 servings of
beer, at 12 ounces each. The cost comes out to $2.11 per beer.
Actually, that is not as bad as I thought. Each batch I do makes that
number get better and better.
Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 04:13:35 -0800
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: re: Brew pub in seattle
Dave Larsen talks about a Seattle brew pub...
Ok Dave, out with it! What brew pub was it?
Regards,
Mike Sharp
Kent, WA
[1891.3, 294deg] AR
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:31:43 -0600
From: "Jason Gazeley" <jason.gazeley at gmail.com>
Subject: Efficiency and astringency
For the sake of changing only one thing at a time
I have taken Dave's advice about checking run off
gravity. I have compiled a spreadsheet that translates
Brix to SG in increments of .001 SG and taped it to the
wall in my brewery. For now I will leave my mill setting
alone. If I still have trouble I will go tho that next..
Cheers,
Jason
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Join our Yahoo Homebrew group
Desert_Quenchers
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:36:57 -0600
From: "Jason Gazeley" <jason.gazeley at gmail.com>
Subject: Recirculation rate?
This is to all of you HERMS / RIMS brewers out there.
What rate do you recirculate at? Do you recirculate
during your entire mash? What size plumbing do you
use? Do you have reasons for your answers to the above
questions or did it just come out that way?
Cheers,
Jason
- --
Join our Yahoo Homebrew group
Desert_Quenchers
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:37:36 -0500
From: "LANCE HARBISON" <harbison65 at verizon.net>
Subject: Grain Mill Gaps
Stencil has made mention a few postings back about his mill settings -
0.080" first pass and 0.065" second pass. I couldn't help but wonder what
his efficiency was. With my home built mill I needed to grind twice to get
80% efficiency - 0.060" for the first pass and 0.040" for the second pass.
When I became tired of double grinding I bought a Schmidling which was
factory set at 0.043". One pass through that and I still get 80% efficiency
and do not get astringency.
Lance Harbison
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 20:58:02 -0500
From: "Mike Maag" <mikemaag at comcast.net>
Subject: Hefeweizen yeast experiment
I split a 10 gallon batch of hefeweizen wort (10 lbs of pilsner & 10 lbs
wheat malt, single infusion mash at 151F) into 2 carboys. I pitched 2 packs
of re-hydrated Danstar Munich Dry Yeast into one, and a stepped-up smack
pack of Wyeast 3068 into the other. Both were fermented at 73F (room temp).
The 3068 had the Weihenstephan banana and clove nose and taste.
The dry yeast had only a very slight banana and clove taste. It was good,
refreshing, but only enough phenols to give it a slightly tart tang. It had
much more character than an American Wheat, but that is not saying much.
If 3068 is too banana & clovey for you, you might like it.
Just a data point.
Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5377, 07/23/08
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