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Contents:
Re: IPA Help (Alan Semok)
Re: flat beer (Fred L Johnson)
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Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:48:29 -0400
From: Alan Semok <asemok at mac.com>
Subject: Re: IPA Help
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:50:43 +1100, <Rowan.Williams at ag.gov.au> wrote:
> Leaving the BJCP specs of an IPA to one side for the moment...
> If you are keen on a true IPA, I'd use the MO and Crystal and
> keep the grain bill pretty simple.
I agree wholeheartedly with this advice (and I usually leave BJCP
specs aside in general...they often seem quite arbitrary. Needless to
say, I am not a true believer).
I've experimented a LOT with IPA and in the end, I've settled on
Maris for it's richness, some crystal for the proper deep amber/
copper color, and most times I will use a bit (10%) of light Munich
because I can, and because the bit of malt character it adds (without
sweetness) to balance the high hop rate nicely.
So it's a pretty simple gain bill to arrive at OG 1.075-80, and with
enough Bullion, Cluster, and Brewer's Gold hops to get to around 80
IBU.
After messing around with countless combinations and permutations
over quite a few years, in the end, the simple route (along with
adequate aging...an average of 8-12 months) has consistently hands
down given me the best result I've ever tasted for an IPA.
I learned long ago to brew double batches so that at least have of
the beer would reach proper age.
cheers,
AL
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Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 04:32:55 -0400
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: flat beer
Darrell asks, "...why not just let your racking cane get some yeast
off of the bottom?"
In this "experiment", I intentionally tried to avoid stirring up the
yeast from the bottom to test the hypothesis that only the yeast in
suspension is needed to carbonate the beer. The results suggest that
the hypothesis must be rejected, at least under the conditions in
which I performed the fermentation and bottling. This beer did not
carbonate in a reasonable amount of time, and it is almost certainly
due to lack of yeast (based on previous experience).
I usually transfer the beer from the carboy fermenter directly to
bottles. I then pick up some of the yeast from the bottom of the
fermenter, transfer this to a separate sanitized reagent bottle,
resuspend the yeast in the bottle, and pipette a small volume of the
suspension into every bottle of beer. In this manner, each bottle gets
essentially the same amount of yeast.
Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA
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Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 02:01:46 +0200 (SAST)
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5617, 10/14/09
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