Thursday, July 31, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5384 (July 31, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5384 Thu 31 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
Hop Questions/Advice (Robert Tower)
re: Filtering instead of Vorlaufing? ("steve.alexander")
Re: Counterflow Chiller and Summer (Fred L Johnson)
Pretzel Recipe (Rick) Theiner" <rickdude@tds.net>
beer with Indian food, cost of brewing, GBBF ("stoneandwing")
Re: home brewing and selling on the side ("Dave Larsen")
re: home brewing and selling on the side ("Chad Stevens")
lead ("Chad Stevens")
OSHA oversight ("Mike Maag")
Do you think your CFC is clean? ("LANCE HARBISON")
Re: Taj Mahal Clone? ("Michael P. Thompson")


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* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
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cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 22:31:56 -0700
From: Robert Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Hop Questions/Advice

I grow Mt. Hood hops on the southern exposure side of my house. I have
three sets of twine for each plant running from the ground up to the
eaves of the house, which is about 11-12 feet (335-366 cm) of total
growing length. In my climate, it's usually about early July by the time
the bines have reached the top at which point they grow into a snarled
mess as they have no where to go. Every year I threaten to experiment on
one plant by cutting the terminal buds once they reach the top. With
other plants this would simply encourage more side growth, but with hops
it's unclear to me what would happen. Every year I either chicken out or
simply procrastinate until it's too late. Either way, I never have
actually tried it. Any thoughts about this? Can anyone see a downside to
this kind of trimming?

As far as hop harvesting goes, would there be any detriment (besides
taking up more freezer space) to simply freezing fresh harvested hops
without drying them first? Reduced shelf life? Freezer burn? Some kind
of enzyme action that would not be arrested by the freezing storage
temperature? In the past I've done this with small amounts and used them
utilizing the premise that fresh, undried hops weigh 5-6 times more than
dried hops. I've done this with the hops at the beginning and end of the
harvest (when there isn't enough harvested all at once to justify going
to the trouble of drying them) and I haven't noticed any difference.
However, I used them within a few months of freezing. Thoughts on this?

Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 02:26:07 -0400
From: "steve.alexander" <-s at roadrunner.com>
Subject: re: Filtering instead of Vorlaufing?

Aaron Hermes writes ...

> In the Altbier Classic Styles Series book, Dornbusch states that most
> German breweries centrifuge or filter the wort after lautering, rather
> than vorlaufing as most homebrewers do. I don't have the means to
> centrifuge wort at this point, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> ever opted for filtering their wort through an inline filtration
> system of some sort. What size filter would be appropriate? It seems
> there would be disadvantages to filtering the wort through too fine a
> filter at that point, but I'm really just guessing there. I'm more
> upset at learning that vorlaufing isn't part of the typical process
> these days... It seems like I've been misled!

Either that or Dornbush is misleading (wouldn't be the first time).

There is a Belgian company called "Meura" which makes mash filtration
systems. Kunze describes their use in some detail. These consist of
many plates" with some sort of a fine fabric material. Their new
smaller unit handles "throws" of grist under 4 tonnes (I'd guess that's
around 200bbl capacity) so this is not for microbrews. There was
several articles in around circa 1990 discussing wort quality from
these. They do extract more moisture form the grist.
http://www.meura.com

So the extra moisture extraction both makes better extraction from
malt and makes the waste grist easier to handle (less water)

FWIW Kunze devotes 11.5 pages to traditional lautering and 15.5pg
to membrane filtration. There are great number of diagrams and
assembly detail needed to describe the complex membrane systems.
He considers the advantages of the modern filtration systems
(Meura 2001 by example, originally built in 1993) as:
1/ Lautering cycle time <2hrs (vs ~4hr for tun)
2/ Very low wort turbidity.
3/ oxygen uptake is minimal (compared w/ transfer to a lauter)
4/ Hammer mills can be used (intact husks not needed).
Unstated is the "flour" input grist and higher efficiency.

Kunze makes no mention of wort/mash separation by centrifugation
but this paper
www.ibd.org.uk/igbsite/business/training/files/Timscourses/
Tech%20summ.%20Feb%2003.pdf
discusses post lauter centrifugation to make the dry waste more
economic (not to recover wort).
===

OK -so if you want to experiment with filters have at it, but
you need a vast membrane surface area and some way to introduce
sparge water and allow runoff. This is not an in-line filter
sort of solution. My reading is that it makes a lot of sense an
a large scale where an extra 3 percent of extract recovery
and making drier lighter grist waste is important.

If you want to look for advantages of clearer wort, you might
want to try conventional lautering then perhaps you could
remove more with in-line filters.

Reasonably clear sweet wort is important, as is oxidation
prevention but inserting a coarse inlet into the mash tun
and recirculating by pump for 10-15 minutes (RIMS style)
does a very effective job. I personally don't care about
the minor efficiency concerns or waste mass.

-S


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 07:05:33 -0400
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Counterflow Chiller and Summer

Mike found little improvement in chilling his wort with his
counterflow chiller when he added a 5 foot coil of 3/4 inch coil in a
bucket of ice to cool the incoming water. Mike didn't say what the
coil was made of, but I'm assuming copper tubing. The reasons for his
lack of success are:

1) not enough contact time between the water and the walls of the
prechiller tubing and
2) insufficient mixing of the ice water.

I would suggest that Mike needs to use a longer coil of copper tubing
(e.g., 25 feet) that is narrower in diameter. Alternatively one could
slow down the flow rate of the cooling water, but that works against
you when the cooled water reaches the main chiller. Mike also needs
to stir the bucket of ice/ice water around the prechiller coil to get
maximum heat exchange in the prechiller.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 8:23:19 -0500
From: "Eric (Rick) Theiner" <rickdude at tds.net>
Subject: Pretzel Recipe

I have made Jeff's recipe a number of times and love the product.
I don't know if the skin is as toothsome as Aaron wants, but all
members of my family are very happy with it.

I don't really deviate from the instructions, but here are some points
that I find to be indispensable--

1) Give the pretzels a decent amount of time in the boil. I can't
remember the time requirement, but I go by appearance now. I
look for the dough to be turning brownish yellow under the influence
of the lye.

2) Use pretzel salt. I tried table salt once and only once. It makes
them pretty soggy. I now get pelletized salt from King Arthur:
http://www.kingarthurflour.com/ And don't worry about it going bad
or sucking up moisture-- I keep it in the same brown bag that it came
in and and am still using the same bag 3 years later.

3) Waste no time in going from the boil to the oven-- as soon as I have
a baking sheet full, in they go.

4) And this is just a helpful hint. I think Jeff even mentions it in his
recipe-- If you are not using a silicone baking sheet like Silpat, get
one. They make getting your pretzels off of the pan soooooooo easy.

Good luck with your skin.

Rick Theiner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 08:47:54 -0500
From: "stoneandwing" <stoneandwing at ij.net>
Subject: beer with Indian food, cost of brewing, GBBF

Michael P. Thompson asked about pairing beer with Indian
food. I think there was a good reason that IPA became very
popular with the British troops stationed there in the
1800's. These go really well with spicy Indian food.
Scottish ales also go well. Until they got new management
and reduced the beer list to Taj Mahal and a few other bland
beers, my favorite local Indian restaurant used to have
McEwins IPA (a Scottish 80/- ale) which went very well with
Sahg Ghost. Perfect.
Here's my 2c on the cost of brewing. All the equipment I
have I consider as assets, therefore the value has been
expensed out over several years. Besides, some of it may
still give me a return on the investment if I should ever
decide to sell it. My time doesn't count either, since it's
a hobby, so the actual cost of homebrew boils down to the
cost of the ingredients and the supplies like sanitizers and
kegging/bottling parts. Having a freezer full of hops from
raffles and prizes at competitions doesn't hurt either. I
love this hobby.
I looked at the list of U.S. beers that Steve sent for the
GBBF. It's impressive. I wish we could get some of them
where I live. Firestone Walker, Victory, Brooklyn, Dogfish
Head and Stone have some beers on the list I'd really like
to try. Is it true that the smallest sample offered is 1/2
pint? Tough choices. Have fun!
Jeff Gladish, Tampa


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 09:02:41 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: home brewing and selling on the side

>
> Just looking for some feedback. Eventually, I want to open a type of
> brewpub of microbrewery. In the mean time, I want to start it as a
> part time business. I would like to brew in my garage or basement and
> sell beer locally or off a website. This would allow me time to gage
> the business economics (feasibility) and give me time to practice,
> formulate recipes, etc.). Does anyone have any tips or a website they
> can refer? Looking for tips on operations, taxes, shipping, book
> keeping, etc. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.
>

I can't tell you how many times someone has said to me, "I'd like to
buy your beer." I always respond, "I could go to jail for that. How
about I just give you some -- no charge."

Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 10:43:51 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: re: home brewing and selling on the side

Alex asks:

...I would like to brew in my garage or basement and
sell beer locally or off a website. Does anyone have any tips or a website
they can refer?

Yes Alex, I have a tip. You can't do it:

http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2008/aprqtr/pdf/27cfr25.211.pdf

27 USC 25.206 says you can't sell stuff made under 25.205 (that's homebrew).
This is all taken from 27 USC, tax code. This is just one law that keeps
you from doing it, there are others. Homebrew is homebrew, commercial brew
is commercial. Never the twain shall meet.

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 10:55:37 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: lead

The concerns about lead are way overblown. I've worked in environments with
huge lead exposure and seen people poisoned by lead. So poisoned their lips
and fingernail beds turned blue. Remove them from the lead exposure and
they recuperate in time; no lasting effects. So, if your homebrew makes
your lips turn blue, by all means, throw out that Mexican carboy.
Otherwise, I really wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

FWIW,

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego

(Of course after reading this post, you'll probably totally disregard my
previous post re: US tax code and selling homebrew!) :o)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:04:33 -0500
From: "Mike Maag" <mikemaag at comcast.net>
Subject: OSHA oversight


Pat mentioned OSHA oversight as a potential problem for small brewpubs. A
nice "loophole" does exist. OSHA only has jurisdiction regarding EMPLOYEE
health & safety issues. If the small brewer has no employees, AND is not
incorporated, then no OSHA problems. Being incorporated makes the brewer an
employee of the corporation, and hence, covered by OSHA regs. Also, if the
brewer is a Partner in a non-encorporated brewpub, and there are no
employees, there is no OSHA coverage. If a non-incorporated, single brewer
with no employees contracts with a restaurant to brew in a rented adjacent
space, then no OSHA problems for the brewer.
Of course it is best to comply with OSHA regs. I have sample programs I
have written for a local brewpub which cover Hazard Communication, Permit
Required Confined Space entry, Hazard Assessment, etc., which I would be
happy to email (gratis) to any brewpub. They are the same sample programs I
leave with employers I inspect, to assist them with compliance, made
specific to a typical small brewery. They simply must be "personalized" to
the specific workplace. I am a state of VA. OSHA inspector.

Brew Safely,
Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:33:57 -0500
From: "LANCE HARBISON" <harbison65 at verizon.net>
Subject: Do you think your CFC is clean?

I work at a lab where I have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner. I used
it on my Chillzilla and did the same with my neighbor's Shirron. Both were
filled with a mixture of oxyclean (5 ml to 500 ml). After the first pass on
the Chillzilla the water was brownish. For the second pass it was clear.
With the Shirron the first pass had a greenish tint to it but had flakes of
(probably) hop matter. With the second pass it was a little less green but
still had flakes. I repeated the cleaning probably a total of 6 times with
water flushing in between. A few flakes still come out each time. My
neighbor is pretty faithful about running boiling water through his before
and after each brew session. Maybe a PBW soak is necessary.

Lance Harbison
Pittsburgh


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 16:59:53 -0600
From: "Michael P. Thompson" <thompson at ecentral.com>
Subject: Re: Taj Mahal Clone?

Some of you seem to have the wrong idea here. My friend has been a
homebrewer for years, but the place I was talking about here is an
actual brewpub, with all the appropriate licenses and such, and he's
employed there. Of course we're not talking about selling homebrewed
beer to the public.

An IPA is the logical first choice for beer with Indian food, but
he's planning a Porter, a Pilsner, and an ESB too. I'm sure he'll be
experimenting for a while to determine what beers work best with the
food, and the owner is really on Taj Mahal, which is why I asked
about it, but any suggesions would probably be helpful to him.

Thanks

Michael

- --
Doras Cuil Travel--Your one-stop travel source
Do you like to travel? How about wholesale, AND tax-deductible? Ask
me how.
http://www.dorascuil.com

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5384, 07/31/08
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5383 (July 30, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5383 Wed 30 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Jeff Renner's Pretzel Recipe ("Aaron Hermes")
Filtering instead of Vorlaufing? ("Aaron Hermes")
Taj Mahal Clone? ("Michael P. Thompson")
home brewing and selling on the side ("Alex Rigoni")
Re: home brewing and selling on the side ("Pat Babcock")
The cost of brewing ("Jerry \"Beaver\" Pelt")
Lead in Carboys (Calvin Perilloux)
re: Cloning Saison Dupont ("Chad Stevens")
Counterflow Chiller and Summer (Mike Kilian)
English brewer seeks help with US beer list at GBBF (Steve)
Hops Crisis (Allen Senear)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
"subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 23:49:47 -0400
From: "Aaron Hermes" <aaron.hermes at gmail.com>
Subject: Jeff Renner's Pretzel Recipe

I haven't seen anything from Jeff Renner here in a long time, but I'm
hoping that maybe some other people on the list have made his pretzel
recipe. I've made it 3 or 4 times in the past month, and the results
have been fairly satisfactory (according to my tasting panel, they've
been very good), but I'm not getting the kind of skin that I want on
the pretzels. The taste (that pretzelly "twang") is definitely there,
but there's not enough "bite" to to the pretzel's texture. I added a
step to his recipe, letting the shaped pretzels rest uncovered in the
fridge for 20-30 minutes, which did result in a better skin, but still
not thick enough for my taste. I also doubled the concentration of
the lye dip, to 6 oz in 1 gallon of water (the volume measurement he
gave in the recipe was only about 3 oz with my lye crystals). I did
notice that the skin was not as smooth or tight as I would have hoped,
but that's because I'm picturing something more along the lines of a
"Super Pretzel" or something like that, which is probably an
inappropriate comparison...

Does anyone have any insight on getting a thicker/tougher skin on the
pretzels? Do I need a longer rest in the fridge? Do I need to
increase the concentration of the lye dip?


aaron


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 23:56:24 -0400
From: "Aaron Hermes" <aaron.hermes at gmail.com>
Subject: Filtering instead of Vorlaufing?

In the Altbier Classic Styles Series book, Dornbusch states that most
German breweries centrifuge or filter the wort after lautering, rather
than vorlaufing as most homebrewers do. I don't have the means to
centrifuge wort at this point, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
ever opted for filtering their wort through an inline filtration
system of some sort. What size filter would be appropriate? It seems
there would be disadvantages to filtering the wort through too fine a
filter at that point, but I'm really just guessing there. I'm more
upset at learning that vorlaufing isn't part of the typical process
these days... It seems like I've been misled!


aaron


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 23:50:15 -0600
From: "Michael P. Thompson" <thompson at ecentral.com>
Subject: Taj Mahal Clone?

I have a homebrewer friend who is just starting to brew for an Indian
restaurant. They want him to approximate Taj Mahal, which is imported
from India. Anybody have a clone recipe? Also, any suggestions for
beers that go with Indian food, especially those from India or Nepal,
would be appreciated.


- --
Doras Cuil Travel--Your one-stop travel source
Do you like to travel? How about wholesale, AND tax-deductible? Ask
me how.
http://www.dorascuil.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:49:25 -0500
From: "Alex Rigoni" <alex.rigoni at gmail.com>
Subject: home brewing and selling on the side

Hey all,

Just looking for some feedback. Eventually, I want to open a type of
brewpub of microbrewery. In the mean time, I want to start it as a
part time business. I would like to brew in my garage or basement and
sell beer locally or off a website. This would allow me time to gage
the business economics (feasibility) and give me time to practice,
formulate recipes, etc.). Does anyone have any tips or a website they
can refer? Looking for tips on operations, taxes, shipping, book
keeping, etc. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.

Thanks,

Alex


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 10:03:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: home brewing and selling on the side

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager....

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:49:25 -0500, "Alex Rigoni" <alex.rigoni at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Just looking for some feedback. Eventually, I want to open a type of
> brewpub of microbrewery. In the mean time, I want to start it as a
> part time business. I would like to brew in my garage or basement and
> sell beer locally or off a website. This would allow me time to gage
> the business economics (feasibility) and give me time to practice,
> formulate recipes, etc.). Does anyone have any tips or a website they
> can refer? Looking for tips on operations, taxes, shipping, book
> keeping, etc. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.

The key missing element from your request above would be information on
licensing requirements. It is likely that the cost and difficulty of
licensing such a venture would kill the desire to try it as a part-time,
toe-in-the-water venture pretty quickly.

You will need federal and state licensing for production, packaging, and
sale. You will need local licensing to operate - and you'll likely not get
this for a residential location. Even at that, you will need to have
federal review of any labelling, local board of health oversight; since
you'll be dealing with boiling liquids and heavy lifting: there's the
spectre of local OSHA oversight as well... Ah! The bureaucracy engine must
be fueled, and fueled heavily!

I'm sure there'll be more precise information and advice forthcoming from
those in our ranks who are currently opening or operating brew pubs and/or
microbreweries, but the only operation I am personally aware of that
started on a similar scale had to buy/lease a building to do it in.

And that's my knee-jerk $0.02 opinion from a quick read of your post while
doing my moderation gig :o)

- --
See ya!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan
Chief of HBD Janitorial Services
http://hbd.org
pbabcock at hbd.org


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:31:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Jerry \"Beaver\" Pelt" <beaverplt at yahoo.com>
Subject: The cost of brewing

Hi all.

I'm surprised that this subject has gotten so much play.
After all, who would be subscribed to this digest except
those who enjoy the hobby to one degree or other. Does anyone
who brews actually do it to save money? I personally do it because
I love great (ok sometimes only good, well alright, I've
had to dump a couple batches) homebrews. If it weren't
beer, I'd just spend whatever I spend on something else I love.

Jerry "Beaver" Pelt


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 08:52:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com>
Subject: Lead in Carboys

Amos writes, regarding lead:

> How much do we spend on sanitizers and water treatments
> just to make sure there is no possibility of a contamination?
> Should we not do the same for rather dangerous chemical
> contaminants in our equipment.

You can't draw a parallel conclusion that we should do the same.
Trace amounts of metals, unlike trace amounts of bacteria,
do not reproduce and overwhelm the final product. And so far,
without test data, we are riding on speculation here.

The lead testing with a soak in white vinegar seems overdone
if it's straight vinegar. It seems a better test would be
to have a solution with pH of about 4.5 or so, the pH of beer
(or 3 if you prefer lambics?) and then check that for lead
after some weeks in a carboy.

You might have to send such a sample off for analysis,
since the ppm/ppb in solution might be quite low. Then
compare that to an analysis of your drinking/brewing water
to see what increase (hopefully small or none) you might
be getting.

Calvin Perilloux
Middletown, Maryland, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 09:08:06 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: re: Cloning Saison Dupont

>Question - How do I clone the yeast? I understand it's yeast + some brett,
>is it sufficient to use two tablespoons of table sugar and refill the
>bottle with water?

That's roughly how I did it. I just added some wort and presto! Great
yeast. I gave what I grew to Lisa White, she and Neva did their lab thing,
and the result is now White Labs Saison II. What I grew out was a straight
fermentation strain, no brett, but this stuff ferments darn near anything
down to 1.004 FG and the flavor is about as close as you could ask for to
the original. To the best of my knowledge (from playing with the beer and
its yeast for years), they aren't using brett, but I could certainly be
wrong.

Good luck!

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 12:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Kilian <mikekilian1947 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Counterflow Chiller and Summer

I keep thinking that there should be a way to improve my
chiller's efficiency during the summer. Here in the
St Louis MO area, water gets quite warm, by comparison to
our winter temps. I can get my wort down to 77 degrees
or so during the summer but that not where I want to be.
I would not expect to get it chilled down to lager
pitching temp, but I really prefer to get my ale to 68
or a few degrees less. I tried a 3/4 inch 5 foot coil
in a bucket of ice to chill the incoming water but it
was of marginal help. Somehow, I'd expect that I should
pre-chill the input water with a larger bucket or cooler
with ice and something more like a coil or chill plate
from a jockey box. Any ideas are appreciated.

Mike



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 22:22:44 +0100
From: Steve <duderooner at ntlworld.com>
Subject: English brewer seeks help with US beer list at GBBF

Hi

Next week is the Great British Beer Festival in London. I intend to
arrive with a plan of action. Over the last few years I have followed
this digest, bought books on American brewing and downloaded US
homebrewers podcasts to listen to as I deliver my beer. Alas, I have to
admit the exposure of my palate to beer from the States has been limited
to some bottled imports and the odd gift brought back by friends. My
capacity for sampling will be limited and I am hoping that you good folk
will be able to give me some advice as to which beers you would advise a
friend to try. To save clogging up this forum I have the link to Bieres
Sans Frontieres, which is the bar serving US beers at the GBBF
2008. The US beer list is under the USA and World Bar, 2008.

http://www.b-s-f.org.uk/

Thanks for your help,
Steve
(No such thing as a bad beer, just some are better than others!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 17:28:17 -0700
From: Allen Senear <senear at seanet.com>
Subject: Hops Crisis

This past weekend, on my annual end of July trek through the Yakima
valley (go Oh Boy! Oberto) I saw evidence of real hope for relief
from world-wide hops shortage. After having sensed a slow erosion in
the numbers of hops fields visible from I-82 over the last few years,
this year there were several new fields along the road (including one
just south of Union Gap - I've never seen any that far north before).
The lumber and support wires still had that shiny straight from Home
Depot look. The vines only extended perhaps 4 or 5 feet up the guide
wires , and were not very full, nothing like the vines in the
established fields, densely rising to 18-20 feet; they won't produce
many hops this year, but by next year they should be going gangbusters.

Allen Senear
Big Water Brewing
Seattle


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5383, 07/30/08
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5382 (July 29, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5382 Tue 29 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

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Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

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***************************************************************


Contents:
Cloning Saison Dupont ("Josh Knarr")
Lead in glass carboys... (drsmith)
Lead in Carboys ("Amos Brooks")
The cost of brewing ("LANCE HARBISON")


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and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 09:00:47 -0400
From: "Josh Knarr" <josh.knarr at gmail.com>
Subject: Cloning Saison Dupont

All,

I have discovered the wonders of farmhouse funk. I really enjoyed the
Saison Dupont, the one in Clone Brews is lacking in the funk category.
I said, "Man, this would do really well as a pumpkin beer". It's only
been recently that PA seems to have relaxed it's beer and liquor laws
and we're starting to get individual sixpacks and bottles of high end
stuff sold in grocery stores. (Troegs was still under "imports" in
Drexel Hill's Fresh Grocer, I left the manager a note).

Question - How do I clone the yeast? I understand it's yeast + some
brett, is it sufficient to use two tablespoons of table sugar and
refill the bottle with water?

Thanks
Josh


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:44:35 -0400
From: drsmith <hbd at aperature.org>
Subject: Lead in glass carboys...

> Not so fast ! There were tests reported a number of years ago in
> Wine Spectator magazine and the acid in wine will extract a
> considerable amount of lead from a "lead glass" decanter. They
> suggest - and I agree that you should never use lead glass for food
> or beverage.

I have a lead test kit from a hardware store laying around here
somewhere. If I can find it, I'll see about testing the external side
of a 3 gallon glass carboy I have and report back. Since lead in the
presence of an acid seems to be of interest, I'll test it twice - once
with the dry glass and once with a surface that's been exposed to
white vinegar for a period of time. I'm also sure that all of my
glass carboys came from Mexico - I've never seen one around here that
was marked as coming from any other country.

- --Darrin
Rochester, NY


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:44:37 -0400
From: "Amos Brooks" <amosbrooks at gmail.com>
Subject: Lead in Carboys

Hi,
I agree there is a concern here. If there is a possibility of a
lead contamination, why would you use it. How much do we spend on
sanitizers and water treatments just to make sure there is no
possibility of a contamination? Should we not do the same for rather
dangerous chemical contaminants in our equipment. It's really a no
brainer as I see it. It is unlikely that you will get enough lead into
solution to test by testing a solvent in the carboy for a few minutes.
There are some off the shelf test kits that you could try. Many are
simple swab tests. Not having used them I can't really avouch for how
well they work, but I'd be interested in trying it to see. Check out
the link for a description of the type of product I'm describing.

www. amazon. com/gp/product/B000E3DX0C/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

BTW: I inserted a space after www and before the com in that link
because I have been the victim of the overzealous html bouncing on
this list... not wanting overly formatted messages is one thing, but
this is ridiculous!

Amos


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:31:25 -0500
From: "LANCE HARBISON" <harbison65 at verizon.net>
Subject: The cost of brewing

I was rather shocked that Dave Larsen does not find homebrewing economical.
I was in his backyard of Tucson in May. I went to a bottle shop and a
6-pack of Stone (as well as everything else there) cost $10. Holy crap! My
last batch of 20 gallons cost me about $100. Now granted, I built all of my
equipment except for a Chillzilla and my second grain mill, so my 6-pack
cost of $3.12 seems very reasonable to me.

Lance Harbison
Pittsburgh


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5382, 07/29/08
*************************************
-------

Monday, July 28, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5381 (July 28, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5381 Mon 28 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
Hef fementation temp (j.brischke)
Re: no mashout ! ("Dave Larsen")
Re: Lead in glass carboys? ("steve.alexander")
Glass Carboys in Pigeon Forge ("Arnold Neitzke")


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More information is available by sending the word "info" to
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:05:32 +1000
From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com>
Subject: Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature

On Friday, 25 July 2008 at 23:53:38 -0700, Robert Tower wrote:
> I've had quite a bit of success (several 1st places and even had one
> runner-up best of show) with my hefeweizens. The key factors are (in no
> specific order): yeast strain, pitching amount, aeration, and
> fermentation temp.

Interesting read, one that I've saved to re-read when summer comes.
I'm surprised, though, that you don't mention special mashing, in
particular the 43<degree> ferulic rest, which I've been told is
essential for the production of the precursors to the clove taste.

Greg
- --
Finger grog at Freebsd.org for PGP public key.
See complete headers for address and phone numbers.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:00:18 +0000
From: j.brischke at comcast.net
Subject: Hef fementation temp

Re: Aleman's post,

>(Unfortunately it doesn't work
>in Fahrenheit ;)

It does work in fahrenheit. The combined number is 118 degrees F.
You have to convert the two numbers seperately. 10C=50F, 20C= 68F.
Any combination will then work. Pitch at 56F, ferment at 62F,etc.

Regards,
Jim Brischke
Lake Stevens,WA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:03:20 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: no mashout !

> As of today, I have brewed 567 batches of beer. Except for the first 50
> or so, these have been all-grain, 5.2 gallons each. Today I forgot to
> mash-out for the first time ever! I was distracted (defragmenting my hard
> drive, but fragmenting my conscousness), and as I started the sparge I
> noticed that the temperature in the lauder tun was only 150F.
>
> I wonder what the consequences will be on the final product? The recipe
> is 9lb optic pale malt, 1.5 lb Light Crystal, .5 lb Flaked Barley.
>
> I suppose that the amylaze enzymes will continue working longer than
> usual, perhaps resulting in a drier beer?
>

It will likely not affect your beer whatsoever. I never do a mashout.
As far as amylase enzymes are concerned, most of their work is done
within the first 15 minutes of the mash. There are very little
starches to convert by the time you do a mashout. Most of what a
mashout does is give you a better efficiency because the sugars are
more fluid with warmer liquid. It makes things less gummy, and helps
prevent stuck sparges.


Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:57:07 -0400
From: "steve.alexander" <-s at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Lead in glass carboys?

Josh Knarr wrote ...

> I wouldn't be too worried about lead in glass carboys. In order to get
> the lead out (ha ha!) you would have to somehow make the glass
> solvent. To take care of surface lead, or any possible lead coating, a
> good scrubbing of the carboy (I have a coathanger I bent to the handle
> of my brush) should take care of it.
>
Not so fast ! There were tests reported a number of years ago in Wine
Spectator magazine and the acid in wine will extract a considerable
amount of lead from a "lead glass" decanter. They suggest - and I agree
that you should never use lead glass for food or beverage.

Now typical "lead glass" has 15-35% lead oxide. I wouldn't guess that
cheap carboys come anywhere close to that level, but half a percent
would be disturbing. Also note that the major "scare" concerning lead
is wrt pottery - either unglazed, (clay often contains lead), or when using
a glaze with lead. So I doubt that carboys contain enough lead to be of
concern BUT that's merely a guess.

I also think you are way off base assuming that a scrubbing would have
any effect. You'd probably need to use John Palmer's technique for
removing lead from brass fittings. He suggested 2 parts vinegar and
1 part hydrogen peroxide for a five minute soak (hbd #3900). And
where is our resident metallurgist ?

It is worth testing a Mexican carboy - can anyone report on this ?
It *seems* unlikely to be a real problem - more of a HOB urban
legend, but who knows ?

-S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:09:29 -0500
From: "Arnold Neitzke" <aneitzke at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Glass Carboys in Pigeon Forge

I am trying this again, the first message never made it through, if it did,
sorry for the repeat.

While in Pigeon Forge last week, my wife and I were going through "Old Tyme
Pottery" store just looking at stuff. I ran across 5 gallon carboys from
Mexico in the center of the store. They were about $20 each. I did not
need any but that seamed like a good deal.

If your in the area and need one, you may want to check them out.

Arnold
Brighton Mi

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5381, 07/28/08
*************************************
-------

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5380 (July 27, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5380 Sun 27 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature (Robert Tower)
no mashout ! ("Darrell G. Leavitt")
Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature (Aleman)
Re: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer ("Michael P. Thompson")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 23:53:38 -0700
From: Robert Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature

I've had quite a bit of success (several 1st places and even had one
runner-up best of show) with my hefeweizens. The key factors are (in no
specific order): yeast strain, pitching amount, aeration, and
fermentation temp.

There are a number of different strains. If you're serious about your
hefe, you might want to make a 5 gallon batch, and break it into 1
gallon batches each with a different strain to find the one to focus on.
Otherwise, you either are going to get sick of drinking this style or
it's going to take forever for you to go through them all (assuming you
only brew it once or twice a year like most brewers). A local brew club
is another way to get taste information fast. Learn from other people's
mistakes! My personal favorite is White Labs 380 Hefe IV. I've tried
Wyeast 3068 numerous times but I find it very bland no matter what I do
with it. White Labs 300 (their regular hefe strain) is too
banana-centric for my taste. The 380 strain is a nice balance between
clove and banana. Though I have a friend who recently got a free brick
of the new Munich dry yeast that he is going to split with me, so I will
give it a shot and report back here with my experience.

Pitching amount has a large impact on the flavor profile. Too little and
you either get bubblegum or too much banana, too much yeast and it turns
out bland. The amount I've arrived at (after a few years of
experimentation and fiddling) is pitching a single vial of WL380 into a
2 liter (half gallon) starter (wheat DME) 2-3 days before brew day, then
pitching the entire starter into a 5 gallon batch. I've made as large as
a 20 gallon batch in which I pitched the single vial of yeast into a 2
gallon starter. Even though White Labs recommends not pitching a single
vial into a starter larger than 2 liters (they recommend stepping up for
larger starters) I have noticed very little if any difference when
compared to the times I've stepped up from a 2 liter then on to a 2
gallon starter.

Aeration also in my experience has a large impact. Too little gives you
too much flavor (as mentioned above) and too much aeration makes it
bland. In the past I was pumping pure oxygen through a stone, but in the
last year or so I've abandoned that practice and now fill my fermenter
from the top and rely exclusively on the splashing from that. I haven't
made a hefe since I've switched aeration methods, but this will be one
variable that I will no longer be able to modify.

Temperature is another big factor. I have found that cooler temps give
me better results. A lot of homebrewers ferment hefes at 70+ F. I keep
the ferment between 64 and 66 F. I've talked to several brewpub brewers
who used WL300 and they've reported wildly different results simply by
changing the temperature 5 degrees F.

As far as a grain bill, I've had the best results with a 70/30 blend.
Though I've gotten satisfactory results from 50/50. If you have
lautering troubles with 70% wheat, then switch your pale malt to six
row, the added husk material usually does the trick and yet doesn't
impact the flavor.

Brewing the perfect hefeweizen is kind of a quest, there's a lot of
factors at play and the only way to find out how to brew it to your
taste is by fiddling around with these factors. Make sure you take
really good notes (brewing, fermenting and tasting) otherwise it could
take you years of frustration to reach your goal. Also keep in mind that
this style is delicate and doesn't have a long shelf life. I try to have
it all consumed within 2 months of kegging/bottling. I've found that
after two months it really begins to deteriorate. Brew it small but
often is the way to go. I don't make 20 gallon batches any more!

Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 11:44:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Darrell G. Leavitt" <leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: no mashout !

As of today, I have brewed 567 batches of beer. Except for the first 50
or so, these have been all-grain, 5.2 gallons each. Today I forgot to
mash-out for the first time ever! I was distracted (defragmenting my hard
drive, but fragmenting my conscousness), and as I started the sparge I
noticed that the temperature in the lauder tun was only 150F.

I wonder what the consequences will be on the final product? The recipe
is 9lb optic pale malt, 1.5 lb Light Crystal, .5 lb Flaked Barley.

I suppose that the amylaze enzymes will continue working longer than
usual, perhaps resulting in a drier beer?

Fragmented.

Darrell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:06:28 +0100
From: Aleman <aleman at uk-homebrew.info>
Subject: Re: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature

"Dave Larsen" Wrote

> Any thoughts about
> weizens and fermentation temperature?

I get good results using the 'German' rule of 30. i.e that the pitching
temp and the final temp should equal 30C (Unfortunately it doesn't work
in Fahrenheit ;)

So if I pitch at 12C I let the natural heat of fermentation take it up
to 18C over say three days, and the temp controller then keeps it at 18C
until fermentation is finished. I get nicely balanced Clove and banana.
I've tried 10C and 20C but wasn't impressed, a bit to clovey for me.

- --
le Man (The Brewer Formerly Known As Aleman)
Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 20:53:32 -0600
From: "Michael P. Thompson" <thompson at ecentral.com>
Subject: Re: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer

On JTue, 22 Jul 2008 19:59, Dave Larsen wrote:

> I came to the conclusion a
> long time ago that the homebrewing hobby will never save you money on
> beer.


That may be true Dave, or it may not. You have to admit, the setup
you described is far beyond what would actually be REQUIRED to brew
beer. I have a glass carboy and a bottling bucket, and a few tools
like a racking cane and thermometer and such. I can brew beer just as
good with this setup as I'd be capable of using your fancy
arrangement. (You may make better beer than me, but I'd contend
that's skill and experience, not equipment.)

All in all I've got less than $300 invested in my hobby. I've brewed
two batches of about forty bottles each, so my cost per bottle is
$3.75, even more than yours. However that will go down quickly as I
brew more beer. Plus the enjoyment of making something myself that I
can really enjoy? Priceless. :-)

- --
Doras Cuil Travel--Your one-stop travel source
Do you like to travel? How about wholesale, AND tax-deductible? Ask
me how.
http://www.dorascuil.com

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5380, 07/27/08
*************************************
-------

Friday, July 25, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5379 (July 25, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5379 Fri 25 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer (Timmy R)
RE: Lead in glass carboys? ("Chris Williams") ("Josh Knarr")
re: the cost of brew ("Chad Stevens")
re: Recirculation rate? (CD Pritchard)
Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature ("Dave Larsen")


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and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 06:44:50 -0500
From: Timmy R <trunnette at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer

> "The cost of the equipment is the price of my hobby."

Agreed. And it'll help justify my saving up to buy a B3 1550 or 2550
this year.

Cheers,

Timmy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 08:43:22 -0400
From: "Josh Knarr" <josh.knarr at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Lead in glass carboys? ("Chris Williams")

I wouldn't be too worried about lead in glass carboys. In order to get
the lead out (ha ha!) you would have to somehow make the glass
solvent. To take care of surface lead, or any possible lead coating, a
good scrubbing of the carboy (I have a coathanger I bent to the handle
of my brush) should take care of it.

Professional test kits are out there:
http://www.skcinc.com/prod/550-001.asp should work. How you test for
lead (specifically for gasoline, it will probably work on the wipes)
is to let some water soak in the carboy for a week or two to get some
good saturation (if there is any), soak up the water in a paper towel,
add a weak solution of iodine and then a drop dithizone to the iodine
on the towel. If the dithizone turns red, it's lead. You can grab
dithizone in pep boys in the fuel treatment aisle - it's popular among
the SCCA guys here for testing for lead in 120 octane gasoline (my
other money pit...).


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 10:31:27 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: re: the cost of brew

I posted a detailed report of my brewing costs years back. It went
something like:

Cooler tun - $50
Copper pipe for manifold - $8
Kettle - $75
Temp controller - $50
2 carboys - $40
Hoses - $20
fridge - free
buckets - free
pretty much everything else I've won or been given - free

Amortized over 20 years of brewing, that's about $0.39 per batch. I harvest
my own yeast; hops and grain are about $6-8 a batch/52 bottles = $0.16 a
beer.

Unfortunately I got a wild hair last year and built a 12 keg kegerator
(thanks to Jamil for the window A/C and temp controller idea). The 12 tap
stainless tube from Micromatic was about $1500; everything else was another
$300. But even with that, amortized over 600 batches = $0.06 cents a beer.
I guess the logical conclusion that should be drawn from this rambling is:
"if your beer costs you too much, it merely means your not drinking enough!"

This need not be an expensive hobby. Throw in all the friendship this beer
has brought me over the years - money may not buy you love; beer on the
otherhand! - priceless.

;o)

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 15:23:13 -0400
From: CD Pritchard <cdp at chattanooga.net>
Subject: re: Recirculation rate?

Jason asked:

> This is to all of you HERMS / RIMS brewers out there.
> What rate do you recirculate at? Do you recirculate
> during your entire mash? What size plumbing do you
> use? Do you have reasons for your answers to the above
> questions or did it just come out that way?

I get 1/2 to 3/4 GPM in my RIMS and recirculate
during the entire mash.
Plumbing is 1/2" copper with some 3/8" ID vinyl tubing.
No real reasons for any of the above.

CD Pritchard
cdp at chattanooga.net


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:17:48 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: Hefeweizen Fermentation Temperature

The talk about various hefeweizen yeasts got me thinking about
hefeweizen. I have not done one in several years. It seems like it
should be a relatively easy style to brew, but I've never had luck at
it. Rather than tasting like clove and banana, mine always tasted
like bubblegum.

People always told me to go warmer and warmer in fermentation
temperature to increase that clove/banana flavor, but that never
worked for me. Then, I visited a brewery in Austin, Texas, called
Live Oak, that made and an excellent hefe, and the brewmaster told me
that the secret is to go colder, not warmer. He ferments his a like
62 degrees F. That went against everything that I was ever told. I
didn't give it much thought, but then I heard it again on the Brewing
Network a few months ago -- maybe a Jamil Show, or a Session, I don't
remember which.

I have not tried it, yet, but I'm itching to. Any thoughts about
weizens and fermentation temperature?

Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5379, 07/25/08
*************************************
-------

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5378 (July 24, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5378 Thu 24 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
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FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
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Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Lead in glass carboys? ("Chris Williams")
RE: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer ("Doug Moyer")
Re: Brew pub in seattle ("Dave Larsen")
Re: Grain Mill Gaps (stencil)
Re: Hefeweizen yeast experiment (stencil)


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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:44:45 +0200
From: "Chris Williams" <chwilliams at gmail.com>
Subject: Lead in glass carboys?

My wife pointed out that all of our glass carboys were made in Mexico,
which has been known for exporting glass products with significant
amount of lead in them. A short, non-scientific survey of LBS in the
Portland area yielded a 100% rate of Mexican manufactured carboys;
calling around to my friends yielded 95%.

Do we have anything to worry about here? Any ideas on how to test the
carboys and/or the beer?

thanks,
Chris


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 09:42:19 -0400
From: "Doug Moyer" <shyzaboy at yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer

Dave Larsen sez:

================================
On a related subject, that statement kind of got me thinking about the
actual cost of a batch of beer. Not only do you have to factory in
the rising cost of grain and hops, you also have to consider
equipment, such as, for me, a conical fermenter, temperature
controller, refrigerator, two stainless-steel pots, mash tun, kegs,
kegerator, regulator, and so on. All that has to be added to each
batch of beer
================================

I must respectfully disagree. The cost of the equipment is the price of my
hobby. The cost of the ingredients is the price of my beer (my time is
"free"...) I don't need all of that equipment to make beer. I have it
because building homebrewing equipment amuses me. (You should see my control
panel with the PID controllers, SSD relays, float switch indication, control
for the pumps, solenoid valve control, etc.)

At least my hobby doesn't cost as much as my brother-in-law's obsession with
guitars and amps and effects and sound boards and recording devices...

(That said, I just bought a small chest freezer for a glycol reservoir for
chilling my conical. Hopefully I can test it out with a new batch the
weekend of the 2nd...)

Brew on!
Doug Moyer
Troutville, VA

Star City Brewers Guild:
http://www.starcitybrewers.org

Pictures of the beer I've been drinking:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shyzaboy/sets/72157603460612903/


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:31:34 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brew pub in seattle

> Dave Larsen talks about a Seattle brew pub...
>
> Ok Dave, out with it! What brew pub was it?
>

Sorry, I'm not one to bash a company online. I know that that is the
way of the Internet, but it is not my way. I wouldn't bash them when
I talked about it on my blog either, even though people asked me to.
Needless to say, it was a brewpub in west Seattle.

Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:16:34 -0400
From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Grain Mill Gaps

On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 00:33:47 -0400,
in Homebrew Digest #5377 (July 23, 2008)
LANCE HARBISON wrote:

>
>Stencil has made mention [ ... ]
> I couldn't help but wonder what
>his efficiency was.

34 (60-40 wheat/pils) to 31 (porter w/ much SpecialB and
120L crystal) point-gallons per pound. I don't track
efficiency because I have no faith in the published data:
my storage is cool and reasonably hermetic but there's no
way my malt is a fresh as when CMC or Franco-Belges did
their testing. As it is, my yield figures depend on wort
volume measurements that are precise to maybe a quart in 8
gallons (3%) and SG's that I can read to within maybe a
point - another 2 or 3 percent. So for me, extract
efficiency means about as much as CAFE numbers when I
monitor miles per gallon.
FWIW, I suspect my yield is achieved as much by the practice
of overnight soaking of the mash as by the fineness of the
grist. The two-pass technique is employed with the
principal goal of retaining maximum husk integrity while
getting good separation from the kernel, with an eye to the
lauter bed.
As to the astringency issue, only time and Jason's
experiments will resolve that.

gds, stencil

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:34:17 -0400
From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Hefeweizen yeast experiment

On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 00:33:47 -0400,
in Homebrew Digest #5377 (July 23, 2008)
Mike Maag wrote:

>
>[ ... ]
>The dry yeast had only a very slight banana and clove taste. It was good,
>refreshing, but only enough phenols to give it a slightly tart tang. It had
>much more character than an American Wheat, but that is not saying much.
>If 3068 is too banana & clovey for you, you might like it.
>
A comparison with the Fermentis Safbrew WB-06 dry yeast is
strongly urged. Pitched to a 1050 wort derived of 60/40
wheat to pils, at 68F it performed spectacularly well. A
starter was used: one sachet sprinkled on 1/2 pint canned
wort, fed a full pint of wort 24 hours later, pitched 12
hours later.
A third wort now sits on the original yeast cake, and the
aromas are as strong and clean as with the first.
NAJASC.

One caveat: It drops very bright and flocs very densely and
considerable effort is needed to swirl up the sediment to
achieve a "mit hefe" pour. Simply rolling the bottle on a
bar towel is not enough.

gds, stencil

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5378, 07/24/08
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5377 (July 23, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5377 Wed 23 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer ("Dave Larsen")
re: Brew pub in seattle ("Mike Sharp")
Efficiency and astringency ("Jason Gazeley")
Recirculation rate? ("Jason Gazeley")
Grain Mill Gaps ("LANCE HARBISON")
Hefeweizen yeast experiment ("Mike Maag")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
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More information is available by sending the word "info" to
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:59:19 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: The Cost of Brewing a Batch of Beer

>
> I have 15 or more vials of yeast in the fridge waiting to be used and I am
> thinking it is time to start over! I have other club members that do the
> same as I do.......at the price of hops and grain, today, I question
> whether or not it is worth saving $6.00 on the yeast?! Interested in your
> comments!
>

It is not worth saving $6.00 on yeast to risk tossing a batch.

On a related subject, that statement kind of got me thinking about the
actual cost of a batch of beer. Not only do you have to factory in
the rising cost of grain and hops, you also have to consider
equipment, such as, for me, a conical fermenter, temperature
controller, refrigerator, two stainless-steel pots, mash tun, kegs,
kegerator, regulator, and so on. All that has to be added to each
batch of beer, and I don't have a lot of volume going through that
equipment, so the cost is pretty high. I came to the conclusion a
long time ago that the homebrewing hobby will never save you money on
beer.

This is what I came up with as a ballpark for the cost of a batch of
beer (for me, at least). I figure that I've spent $3820 on equipment
and ingredients for 34 batches of beer. That comes out to $112.35 per
five gallon batch. Each five gallon batch produces 53 servings of
beer, at 12 ounces each. The cost comes out to $2.11 per beer.
Actually, that is not as bad as I thought. Each batch I do makes that
number get better and better.

Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 04:13:35 -0800
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: re: Brew pub in seattle

Dave Larsen talks about a Seattle brew pub...

Ok Dave, out with it! What brew pub was it?

Regards,
Mike Sharp

Kent, WA
[1891.3, 294deg] AR


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:31:43 -0600
From: "Jason Gazeley" <jason.gazeley at gmail.com>
Subject: Efficiency and astringency

For the sake of changing only one thing at a time
I have taken Dave's advice about checking run off
gravity. I have compiled a spreadsheet that translates
Brix to SG in increments of .001 SG and taped it to the
wall in my brewery. For now I will leave my mill setting
alone. If I still have trouble I will go tho that next..

Cheers,

Jason

- --
Join our Yahoo Homebrew group
Desert_Quenchers


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:36:57 -0600
From: "Jason Gazeley" <jason.gazeley at gmail.com>
Subject: Recirculation rate?

This is to all of you HERMS / RIMS brewers out there.
What rate do you recirculate at? Do you recirculate
during your entire mash? What size plumbing do you
use? Do you have reasons for your answers to the above
questions or did it just come out that way?

Cheers,

Jason

- --
Join our Yahoo Homebrew group
Desert_Quenchers


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:37:36 -0500
From: "LANCE HARBISON" <harbison65 at verizon.net>
Subject: Grain Mill Gaps

Stencil has made mention a few postings back about his mill settings -
0.080" first pass and 0.065" second pass. I couldn't help but wonder what
his efficiency was. With my home built mill I needed to grind twice to get
80% efficiency - 0.060" for the first pass and 0.040" for the second pass.
When I became tired of double grinding I bought a Schmidling which was
factory set at 0.043". One pass through that and I still get 80% efficiency
and do not get astringency.

Lance Harbison


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 20:58:02 -0500
From: "Mike Maag" <mikemaag at comcast.net>
Subject: Hefeweizen yeast experiment

I split a 10 gallon batch of hefeweizen wort (10 lbs of pilsner & 10 lbs
wheat malt, single infusion mash at 151F) into 2 carboys. I pitched 2 packs
of re-hydrated Danstar Munich Dry Yeast into one, and a stepped-up smack
pack of Wyeast 3068 into the other. Both were fermented at 73F (room temp).
The 3068 had the Weihenstephan banana and clove nose and taste.
The dry yeast had only a very slight banana and clove taste. It was good,
refreshing, but only enough phenols to give it a slightly tart tang. It had
much more character than an American Wheat, but that is not saying much.
If 3068 is too banana & clovey for you, you might like it.
Just a data point.

Mike Maag, Shenandoah Valley

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5377, 07/23/08
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Homebrew Digest #5376 (July 22, 2008)

HOMEBREW Digest #5376 Tue 22 July 2008


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
AUGUST'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

The Ann Arbor Brewers Guild
Visit them at http://aabg.org

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
commercial (sour) beers ("Darrell G. Leavitt")
OK lets talk astringency (Joe Katchever)
Re: Common problem with commericial beers ("Dave Larsen")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

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HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 05:02:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Darrell G. Leavitt" <leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu>
Subject: commercial (sour) beers

I have seen the same thing, and I believe that it is that the distributor
lets them get too hot. They are probably not, or minimally filterred (to
enhance the fresh flavor) and if kept cold, I'd bet they woould be good.

Let's see what others have to say.

Darrell

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 11:52:58 -0500
From: Joe Katchever <joe at pearlstreetbrewery.com>
Subject: OK lets talk astringency

My ales are never astringent, yet my amber lager tends to always be
slightly astringent. Many folks really like this lager, but I notice a
subtle flavor in there that I'd like to tweak. The major differences
between this lager and my ales are, for one, that I use Pilsner malt
instead of 2R(Harrison) in the Lager. I have switched Pilsner malt
brands with no considerable difference in astringency. My roller mill is
set to about .07", so I'm not shredding husk. I typically cut off my
runoffs as they approach 2*Plato (1.008). I also keep a watchful eye on
the pH and never let it dwindle below 5.5. I have also used different
yeasts without really effecting the astringency much.
According to the water department, the water I use looks like this
before it is heated to 190*F for brewing: Alkalinity: 120-270ppm,
Calcium: 42-85 ppm, Chloride: 6-93 ppm, Hardness 150-330 ppm, Iron:
0-.21 ppm, Manganese: .002-.25 ppm, with total dissolved solids ranging
from 200 to 570 ppm and a pH range pf 7.5-7.8.
Water analysis of my brewing water (before I treat it with CaSO4, NaCl
or CaCL) is: Sodium 15.5ppm, Calcium: 10.3ppm, Magnesium: 32.2ppm,
Sulfate: 15.6ppm, Chloride: 33.4ppm, and it has 158.3ppm of hardness.
This is the water that actually goes into the mash tun.
I have used raw water (as above) and I have added salts without
effecting astringency much. What's up, oh, beer gods?
Joe

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:04:59 -0700
From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Common problem with commericial beers

> Recently, I have had beer (six packs from the local liquor store) from
> 3 different local breweries (names withheld for now) that all had a
> very similar set of problems. All three times the beer was nearly
> undrinkable and I don't think it tasted anywhere near what the brewer
> had intended.

I too had a problem recently with a brew pub in Seattle. I was
visiting a friend in Seattle, and this friend wanted to take me to a
brew pub only a mile away from his house. When we got there, we got
the sampler, with six beers. Two of them had so much diacetyl that
they were undrinkable, including their signature stout. Let me just
tell you that butter does not belong in a stout in any way, shape, or
form. It was gross. To be honest, the service was not much better.
We left, leaving beer on the table. It is amazing when you taste
something that is supposed to be professionally made and it has such
amateur flaws in it.

Dave
Tucson, AZ
http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5376, 07/22/08
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