Thursday, February 26, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5514 (February 26, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5514 Thu 26 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
RE: Lot analysis data for Weyermann malts? ("Mike Bennett")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 12:04:53 -0800
From: "Mike Bennett" <mjb at efn.org>
Subject: RE: Lot analysis data for Weyermann malts?


Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know of a source where I can buy bags of Weyermann
> malt AND get lot analysis data for them?

I've had EXCELLENT customer service and support from

F. H. Steinbart
234 SE 12th Avenue
Portland, Oregon 97214 USA
503.232.8793
http://www.fhsteinbart.com

Their retail prices are a little high IMO, but it could be because I'm so
used to paying wholesale as a pro brewer.

> I have been buying my malt from Crosby Baker through my LHBS.
> While I?m willing to pay the premium for this excellent German
> malt (I pay ~$60 for the 55 lb bag) I don?t understand why I
> cannot get the lot analysis data if I?m paying this price.

I've had nothing but bad experiences with C&B in the past. Considering the
service That I've gotten from them as a pro, I'm not surprised they didn't
hang up on you as soon as they found out you were a home-brewer.

> Granted a home brewer should not have to worry about detailed
> data like this but let me be the judge of this.

You may be disappointed when you finally get your lot analysis, at least
with the specialty malts. 98% of the time, they are little more than a
color analysis.

- --
Mike Bennett
Professional Brewer (retired)
St. Barts (Home) Brewing
mjbennett69<at>gmail.com


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5514, 02/26/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5513 (February 25, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5513 Wed 25 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Malt Analysis (Thomas Rohner)
Mash temperature calculations (specifically "slaking heat") ("Bill Pierce")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
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spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 13:07:14 +0100
From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch>
Subject: Malt Analysis

I think it would be a good idea for a maltster to put the lot data of
the products on their Website. This way the ones interested in the data
could get it without the maltster having to reply phone calls or emails.
I'm also using Weyermann almost exclusively. (the easiest to get around
here)

Cheers Thomas


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:26:01 -0500
From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce at aol.com>
Subject: Mash temperature calculations (specifically "slaking heat")

Thanks to all for the replies to my earlier question about the
thermal calculations for accurate mashing temperatures. It takes me
some time to digest all of the information (I'm not a scientist by
training), and of course brewing is not the only thing in my life.

As a couple of people pointed out, the difference between the
results of my experiment with hot water and the calculated thermal
mass of my converted keg mash tun based on the heat capacity of 304
stainless steel is due to the fact that the keg is not full; only a
portion of it is in direct contact with the strike water. No doubt
a truly accurate formula would have to take the geometry of the
vessel into account, as well as the thermal conductivity of the
vessel's material as it conducts and radiates heat into the
environment. I was also supplied with an interesting article by Dan
Morey that I had not seen before, which includes formulas for
predicting the temperature drop over time when mashing. My thoughts
on that subject are that additional factors such as humidity and
wind velocity (if mashing outdoors) have an influence as well.

I'll retreat to a position that the best way to determine a vessel's
thermal mass is to calculate it on the basis of measurement by
experiment. It's simple enough to do, and I trust my formula:

ThM = ((Ts-Td)*2.08635*Vw)/(Td-Tm)

Where:
ThM = Thermal mass of vessel (lbs. or kg)
Ts = Strike water temperature (degrees F or C)
Td = Water temperature achieved after settling (degrees F or C)
Vw = Volume of strike water (quarts or liters)
Tm = Mash tun temperature (degrees F or C--typically ambient
temperature)

The formula works for metric brewers as well, as long as they use
metric values throughout and omit the 2.08635 coefficient, which
converts the water volume in quarts to pounds. Do the measurement
with water only; I have eliminated the grain variables from the
equation.

However, several people pointed out one other variable I had not
considered, nor does this seem to be mentioned in the standard
homebrewing literature. This is the notion of "slaking heat";
apparently the hydrolysis of the malt starches is an exothermic
reaction that releases measurable heat. Various professional
brewing references, including "Brewing: Science and Practice" by
Briggs, Boulton, Brookes and Stevens, include the following formula:

F = (St+RT+0.5h)/(S+R)

Where:
F = Final temperature of mash after settling
S = Specific heat of malt
t = Temperature of malt
R = Water/grain ratio of mash
T = Strike water temperature
h = Slaking heat of malt

Solving the equation for h (slaking heat), results in this formula:

h = -2*(R+S)*(((St+RT)/(R+S))-F)

The literature includes a table of slaking heat based on a mash
temperature of 150 degrees F. If I plug this temperature and my own
typical values (malt temperature of 70 F, strike water at 160 F, 0.4
for the specific heat of malt, 1.35 quarts per pound water/grain
ratio) into the formula, I arrive at a the same value (18.8
gram-calories per degree F) as the table. Using the formula and
converting 18.8 gram-calories/degree F) to the value used in my
strike water temperature formula, the result is 0.07460 BTUs (metric
brewers will excuse me here). In a hypothetical mash with 10 lbs.
of grain, again at a water/grain ratio of 1.35 qts/lb, the result is
a total of 111.45 BTUs at 150 degrees F.

The effect on the calculated strike water temperature is
significant, a total of 4.0 degrees F in my hypothetical example.
This is consistent with what Briggs et al. report. However, as I
have said, this is nowhere mentioned in the standard homebrewing
literature nor apparently included in the software most homebrewers
use.

There is a suggestion that the slaking heat is offset by the thermal
mass of the mash tun. Indeed if I eliminate both the vessel's
thermal mash and the slaking heat from my strike water calculation
formula, the difference is reduced to 0.8 degrees F, likely within
the measurement resolution of most thermometers.

Still, it seems there is considerable margin for error in the
homebrew strike water temperature formulas, and those of us who wish
to be precise (some would say anal) about these matters are
disturbed. Is the slaking heat of a typical homebrew mash as great
as 4 degrees F as the formulas and literature suggest, or is this
largely much ado about nothing?

Any input from the technically minded would be greatly appreciated.

Brew on!

Bill Pierce
Cellar Door Homebrewery
Burlington, Ontario

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5513, 02/25/09
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5512 (February 24, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5512 Tue 24 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Metric Inches (Stephen Neilsen)
Lot analysis data for Weyermann malts? (Kai Troester)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 20:41:52 +1100
From: Stephen Neilsen <stephen.neilsen at gmail.com>
Subject: Metric Inches

Oh dear...well of course in a constantly changing world (I am only
talking about increasingly accurate measurement) we have changes.
Anyway on a Brew (ish) related topic it has been said that the inch
was the measure of 5 corns of barley, placed end to end.
There was also that story about Jim Morrison of The Doors, but that is
for less sober forums...

SN in Kanbeera


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:22:58 -0500
From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com>
Subject: Lot analysis data for Weyermann malts?

Does anyone know of a source where I can buy bags of Weyermann malt
AND get lot analysis data for them?

I have been buying my malt from Crosby Baker through my LHBS. While
I?m willing to pay the premium for this excellent German malt (I pay
~$60 for the 55 lb bag) I don?t understand why I cannot get the lot
analysis data if I?m paying this price.

Granted a home brewer should not have to worry about detailed data
like this but let me be the judge of this.

I have contacted Weyermann and Crosby Baker about this. Weyermann told
me that I?m ordering too little to get the data from them. Something I
understand as I don?t think they should be responsible to handle the
inquires from all the home brewers who want data for their bags of
malt. But Crosby Baker as the importer should be able to get this data
from Weyermann and give it to me on request.

I'd really hate to stop buying malt from my LHBS just because of this.

Kai


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5512, 02/24/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, February 23, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5511 (February 23, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5511 Mon 23 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
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FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
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tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
natural units (steve alexander)
slaking heat ("Spencer W. Thomas")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
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http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 05:24:04 -0500
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: natural units

Greg Lehey notes ,

> So what time units do you use?
>
> In any case, this is incorrect. The metric system was developed with
> 'time' based on decimal divisions of the solar day. The time you talk
> about is in such universal usage that it ovverrode the more rational
> metric approach, which was never introduced as part of the metric
> system.
>
Not quite. There was a French decimal day in use for just a few years
before the metric convention, but it was suspended about the same time.
The original metric system had no time unit ! The seconds defined as
1/86400 of the mean solar day was adapted in 1954 as the original metric
time unit, but the second was used w/o complete definition before that.

The second may be almost universal but even in scientific journals we
see time in minute, hours, days etc - non-metric units. The 100kph
signs on the roadside aren't metric for the same reason.

>> This is the system that was developed with a 'length' based on a bad
>> estimate of the distance from equator to pole of some mostly
>> harmless planet, ...
>>
>
> Well, again no. It was originally conceived with a length based on
> the length of a pendulum with fixed period. That definition lasted
> about 10 months, to be replaced by the one you mention, which lasted 8
> years, to be replaced by yet another one in December 1799.
>
> In any case, this is the definition of the unit, not the usage. Using
> the technology of 220 years ago, what more elegant unit would you
> propose?
>
The pendulum (~0.93 meter) was adopted by the French National Assembly
months before the French Academy of Sci chose 10^-7 earth quadrants - so
there is a question if whether the pendulum was ever part of "the metric
system". A provisional meter estimated at 10^-7 quadrants was
developed in 1793, and this was replaced in 1799 by a bar meant to be
the same 10^-7 quads but now acting as the (then) official definition.

>> where temperature is expressed in units based on the phase change of
>> H2O at some ambient pressure
>>
>
> ... directly related to its most normal usage. Again, how does this
> differ from other definitions of the day? You omit to point out that
> the definitions have long since been replaced by corresponding
> definitions based on absolute physical constants.
>

No not physical constant unfortunately. The original silly units have
just been replaced with new silly units of about the same size.
Instead of a second defined by the 1/86400 of an earth day we have a
second defined as several zillion cycles of the hyperfine oscillation of
Cesium where the number is mumbo-jumbo for "almost the old second" ....
tho' later papers suggest the Cs must be in the ground state at absolute
zero, and further conditions will be added as needed. The standard is
fluid ! The constants change. This is from their legacy as poorly
defined quantities.

I'll give props to to the current temp definition, but the mole has
issues resolved in the 1980s, the second has defintional problems
related to the state of cesium133. The meter is dependent on the lousy
second. Sorry Greg, but these "physical constants" are destined to
continue changing just as they have over the past 40 years.

AJ adds ....
> Temperature is defined in terms of absolute 0 and the triple point of
> water neither of which is dependent on pressure. The temperature scale
> (ITS-90) is, thus, defined in terms of fundamental physical constants.
>
This was adopted in 1967, where a Kelvin is 1/273.16 of the
thermodynamic temperature of the triple point of water. So why would
absolute zero and the triple pt be divided into 273.16 units of measure
? B/c it refers back to the Celsius unit which preceded it obviously
and they again tried to make 1K "almost the same" as 1C. A foolish if
practical consistency.
> The meter is defined as the distance light travels in a vacuum in
> 1/299792458 sec and thus related to a fundamental physical constant -
> the hyperfine transition of the outer electron in the cesium atom in a
> field free environment.
>

That's the current meter definition, but before that a certain number of
wavelengths of something or other.
and this definition is a great example of the problem.

meter = C * 1/299792458 sec.
second = 9,192,631,770 Periods transition between the two hyperfine
levels of the ground state of the caesium-133 atom.

So to make this definition come out to these nice integer values, which
"constant" has changed ? (the meter in this case). Before that the
second was tweaked to the cesium periods. Every time the definition
changes the unit changes slightly. The constants are inconstant. A
meter is exactly the length the CGPM thinks it should be this decade,
but it's always close enough to the old value to avoid everyday
problems; yet different enough to bugger-up old textbooks and tables.

Then we have the amp ,volt, coulomb system which is IMO has inferior
definitions to the gaussian-cgs statvolt statamp, esu system but .. The
seven base units should overconstrain the dimensions too, and this shows
up in the derived electromagnetic units I think.

> That brings us to the kilogram. [...] As
> this is disquieting to scientists there is effort afoot to tie the
> kilogram to a fundamental physical constant (which will probably be
> Planck's constant).
>

But we can construct fundamental units from some of the very basic
physical constants - the unit charge, planks constant, gravitational
constant, c - there is no need for the silliness of committee
definitions for units any longer. You can't revise the definition of
gravitational constant or the unit charge.

To answer Greg's questions, I'm partial to the systems called "Plank's
units" here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_units

-S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:07:50 -0500
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <hbd at spencerwthomas.com>
Subject: slaking heat

Slaking heat appears to have been first mentioned in the HBD in 1992:

http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/973.html#973-25
http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1036.html#1036-1

These references include no explanation. It came up again in 1995,
1997, 1998, 1999, but then dropped off the radar until now.

I found an abstract of a 1910 article in the J Inst of Brewing on the
topic, which seems to be an early description of the concept with
experimental values derived:

The Specific Heat of Malt and the Calculation of the "Initial Heat"
of the Mash. H. T. Brown. (J. Inst. Brewing, 1910, 16,
112-129.)--The author,
in a previous communication on this subject (J. Inst. Brewing, 1899,
5, 335), had
assumed that dry malt must be assigned a specific heat of at least
0.52 (instead of
the value usually given of 0.42), from the data he obtained when
experimental
mashes were made, if allowance be made for the whole of the heat
evolved when dry
malt is mixed with cold water-"slaking heat." More recent work shows
that
0.38 is the true value for dry malt, rising to 0.41 for malt
containing 6 per cent.
water, and reasons are given for showing that in reality only one
half the value of
the " slaking heat " is available when malt and hot water are mixed.
This slaking
heat varies in a direction inverse to the moisture content of the
malt. The amended
formula for the calculation is appended :

I = (St+RT)/(S+R) + 1/2 H/(S+R)

S =specific heat of the malt (0.38 if dry, otherwise obtainable frem
the table).
t =temperature of the malt.
R = weight of'water corresponding to unit weight of malt.
T =temperature of the water.
H=the slaking heat of the malt in cold water expressed in
grm.-calories F. (obtained from table).

I = the initial temperature of the mash.

I also found a more recent mention in a Google Book entry:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/c34mh2

Brewing: Science and Practice
By Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes, Roger Stevens
Edition: illustrated
Published by CRC Press, 2004
ISBN 0849325471, 9780849325472


=Spencer in Ann Arbor

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5511, 02/23/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5510 (February 22, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5510 Sun 22 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Metric ? ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
Metric System ("A.J deLange")
Fingers and toes (Kevin Elsken)
2009 Coconut Cup Results (Scott Graham)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:39:19 +1100
From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com>
Subject: Re: Metric ?

On Friday, 20 February 2009 at 15:52:08 -0500, steve alexander wrote:
> Kevin Elsken says ...
>> Subject: Thermal Mass
>>
>> First of all, for goodness sakes man, come over to the dark side and
>> just use the metric system! It is just so much better and easier.

[rearranged for sake of argument]

> This is the system that was developed ... with 'time' based on the
> planet's solar day divided by 86400 ((according to the Sumerian
> number system and time units - lost culture of the same planet))

So what time units do you use?

In any case, this is incorrect. The metric system was developed with
'time' based on decimal divisions of the solar day. The time you talk
about is in such universal usage that it ovverrode the more rational
metric approach, which was never introduced as part of the metric
system.

> This is the system that was developed with a 'length' based on a bad
> estimate of the distance from equator to pole of some mostly
> harmless planet, ...

Well, again no. It was originally conceived with a length based on
the length of a pendulum with fixed period. That definition lasted
about 10 months, to be replaced by the one you mention, which lasted 8
years, to be replaced by yet another one in December 1799.

In any case, this is the definition of the unit, not the usage. Using
the technology of 220 years ago, what more elegant unit would you
propose?

> where temperature is expressed in units based on the phase change of
> H2O at some ambient pressure

... directly related to its most normal usage. Again, how does this
differ from other definitions of the day? You omit to point out that
the definitions have long since been replaced by corresponding
definitions based on absolute physical constants.

> ... many of the units are divided by powers of - and all expressed
> in a base - determined by the typical number of flanges on the
> forepaws of a primate species.

Of course. It was designed for the convenience of this specific
primate species. And the choice of the original definitions of the
units has nothing to do with their usage. It was dependent both on
the technology available at the time and the need to avoid
all-too-drastic changes. You might just as well say that the unit of
length is 10000/254 inches.

Compare this to units which vary from one place to the other, such as
pints and quarts--one of the most important motivations for the
introduction of the metric system--and artificial and obfuscatory
units which make no sense.

Serious questions:

- What is heavier, a pound of gold or a pound of feathers?
- What does the constant 68.5 have to do with ppppg?
- What does the constant 57.0 have to do with ppppg?

> Easier - yes if you count on your fingers and toes.

Even easier if you leave your toes out of it. But it also depends on
how you count on your fingers. I do so in binary (one hand: 0-31; 2
hands: 0-1023).

> Better -- if I laugh any harder beer comes out my nose.

Is there a way to exploit that commercially?

Greg
- --
Finger grog at Freebsd.org for PGP public key.
See complete headers for address and phone numbers.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:10:25 -0500
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Metric System

Temperature is defined in terms of absolute 0 and the triple point of
water neither of which is dependent on pressure. The temperature scale
(ITS-90) is, thus, defined in terms of fundamental physical constants.

The meter is defined as the distance light travels in a vacuum in
1/299792458 sec and thus related to a fundamental physical constant -
the hyperfine transition of the outer electron in the cesium atom in a
field free environment.

That brings us to the kilogram. It is the mass of a lump of metal
called the International Prototype Kilogram (IPK) in a lab outside
Paris. As the mass of an object is proportional to the amount of
matter in it the mass of the IPK changes over time as it wears (though
the IPK is handled very seldom) and adsorbs atoms from the atmosphere
(it is cleaned periodically to reduce this). Nonetheless, the unit of
mass is NOT derived from a basic physical constant. It is the only one
of the SI units that is currently based on an artifact (the IPK). As
this is disquieting to scientists there is effort afoot to tie the
kilogram to a fundamental physical constant (which will probably be
Planck's constant).

So while the metric system was originally artifact based (meter
1/10,000,000 of the distance from the pole to the equator, kilogram
the mass of a liter of water, temperature the ice point of water at
sea level...) it is no longer so with the exception of the kg. Today,
despite the US's stubborn refusal to join the rest of the world and
adopt the metric system we still benefit from it as the inch has been
redefined to be precisely 2.54 cm (as opposed to 1/36 the distance
from Henry's nose to his thumb), the pound exactly 0.45359237 kg and
so on. Indeed furlongs, firkins, pottles and all such other quaint
units of measure can be tied to the basic SI units by adoption
(usually by some body whose authority is accepted) of conversion
algorithms which are usually just scaling factors.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 09:33:09 -0500
From: Kevin Elsken <littleboybrew at verizon.net>
Subject: Fingers and toes

Steve wrote:

> Easier - yes if you count on your fingers and toes. Better -- if I
> laugh any harder beer comes out my nose.

Well...I do count on my fingers and toes. Which makes it better for me!


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:51:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Scott Graham <grahams at cs.fiu.edu>
Subject: 2009 Coconut Cup Results

The 2009 Coconut Cup was another rousing success thanks to everyone's
support. With 244 we really appreciate everyone's help!

Special thanks go to our out of town judges--Glenn Exline (SAAZ), Nelson
Crowle (DBG), Andy Rodusky (PBD), Joe Peters (PBD), Paul Blatz (PBD),
Blake Balsara (PBD), and Marshall Silk (FLAB)--as well as our out of town
stewards, the incomparable Dani Exline (SAAZ) and Squeaky O'Connor (PBD).
Many thank to the dedicated MASH members and their beer-loving friends who
assisted with the judging, stewarding, and logistics.

Additional thanks go to our Sponsors, the Titanic Brewery & Restaurant,
Gordon Biersch, Briess, Wyeast, White Labs, Dogfish Head, Northwestern,
and Sierra Nevada.

The results of the 2009 Coconut Cup are posted at
http://www.miami-homebrew.org/coco-cup/CocoCup09_Results.html

Congratulations to the winners and to the winning club, Tampa Bay BEERS.
We'll have the Cup engraved soon and it will return to its permanent home
above the bar at the Titanic Brewery & Restaurant in Coral Gables.

We look forward to seeing your brews at next year's Coconut Cup!

Scott Graham
Coconut Cup Judge Coordinator
[1159.9, 169.3] Apparent Rennerian


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5510, 02/22/09
*************************************
-------

Friday, February 20, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5509 (February 20, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5509 Fri 20 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
RE; Heat calculations and thermal mass / Slaking Heat (Fred L Johnson)
11th Annual UKG Drunk Monk Challenge (John Kleczewski)
Re: Thermal Mass (Kai Troester)
Metric ? (steve alexander)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:40:53 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: RE; Heat calculations and thermal mass / Slaking Heat

Matt:

Many thanks for your post regarding slaking heat of malt during the
mash-in process. I had NEVER heard of this and will update my
spreadsheet to include this.

I noticed Malting and Brewing Science got the formula correct,
whereas Brewing: Science and Practice screwed it up.

Great post!

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:28:07 -0600
From: John Kleczewski <john.kleczewski at gmail.com>
Subject: 11th Annual UKG Drunk Monk Challenge

The Urban Knaves of Grain announce that the Drunk Monk Challenge 2009
will soon be upon us! The competition is sanctioned by the American
Homebrewers Association, and is a qualifying event for MCAB and the
Midwest Homebrewer of the Year circuit.

The competition is scheduled for March 13 and 14, 2009, to be held at
Walter Payton's Roundhouse in Aurora, IL. As in previous years, the DMC
features the Menace of the Monastery, a special category consisting of
styles which are monastic in origin: Belgian Blonde, Dubbel, Tripel,
Pale, Strong Golden and Strong Dark Ales, as well as German Doppelbock.
Awards for all categories will be announced following the MOM and Best
Of Show judging. There will be 2 separate categories for BOS:
Beer and Mead/Cider. Rosette ribbons featuring our famous 'Drunk Monk'
will be awarded for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places for each category. Special
ribbons will be awarded for 2nd and 3rd BOS and MOM, and engraved plaques
will be the prizes for 1st BOS and MOM.

Of special note is that the winner of the Beer BOS will have the
opportunity to assist in the scaling up and brewing of their award-winning
recipe at Walter Payton's Roundhouse, of Aurora, IL. Please see rules
for details.

Drunk Monk Challenge entries are $7 for the first entry, and $5 each
additional entry. Menace of the Monastery entries are $5 each.

Entries will be accepted between February 28 and March 7.
There are several drop off locations in the Chicagoland area.

Entries can be shipped to:

The Drunk Monk Challenge,
c/o Walter Payton's Roundhouse - America's Brewing Company,
205 North Broadway, Aurora, IL 60505, ATTN: Mike Rybinski
NO DROP OFFS ALLOWED AT THIS LOCATION!

Full details, rules, entry forms, etc. can be found at the UKG website:
http://www.knaves.org/DMC/index.htm


Good luck and thanks!


Na Zdrowie,
John Kleczewski
2009 DMC organizer
http://www.knaves.org/DMC/index.htm


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:20:08 -0500
From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com>
Subject: Re: Thermal Mass

Matt makes a very good point with the heat of hydration. I didn't know
about this until I read it in Brigg's book myself. Then I also
experienced it when I used a bag of BestMalz Dark Munich which
appeared to be drier than the Weyermann malt that I usually use. And I
notices that the temp after mixing malt and water was always a little
more than what my previous experiences were.

So there is yet another factor that we would need to consider. Even
before knowing about this I had completely abandoned any attempt in
precisely calculating the temp of the stike water. Here are the
options that I currently use as I'm using quite a number of different
mash schedules depending on the beer I'm making:

- single infusion: dough in a little thicker and shoot for a temp
between 155 and 145 then use boiling water infusions to reach the sacc
rest temp. If you like to hold a short protein rest, stay closer to
155 and rest there for 10-20 min.
- decoction: estimate the amout of decoction needed based on this
simple equation: T * (V1 + V2) = T1 * V1 + T2 * V2 and add 10-20%.
Then add the decoction in stages until you hit the rest temp. Add the
remainder a little later when it has cooled to be closer to the rest
temp
- direct heat (stove top) mashing: this has become a recent favorite
of mine as I now like to mash in my brew kettle on the stove top and
then boil on the deck. Dough in below the rest temp and use heat to
reach the rest temp. A 5 gal mash holds it's temp very well when
siting on a styrofoam board and being wrapped in a few blankets.

Kai


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 15:52:08 -0500
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Metric ?

Kevin Elsken says ...
> Subject: Thermal Mass
>
> Bill,
>
> First of all, for goodness sakes man, come over to the dark side and
> just use the metric system! It is just so much better and easier.
>
This is the system that was developed with a 'length' based on a bad
estimate of the distance from equator to pole of some mostly harmless
planet, with 'time' based on the planet's solar day divided by 86400
((according to the Sumerian number system and time units - lost culture
of the same planet)) and with 'mass' determined by H2Oper unit volume at
a given temperature - where temperature is expressed in units based on
the phase change of H2O at some ambient pressure (note the circularity
of defining mass in terms that require defining temps therefore pressure
(pressure is M.L-1.T-2)) ... many of the units are divided by powers
of - and all expressed in a base - determined by the typical number of
flanges on the forepaws of a primate species.

Easier - yes if you count on your fingers and toes. Better -- if I
laugh any harder beer comes out my nose.

-S

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5509, 02/20/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5508 (February 19, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5508 Thu 19 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

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501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Heat calculations and thermal mass (Matt)
Lansing Water ("A.J deLange")
Thermal Mass of Mash Tuns ("A.J deLange")
Re: Thermal Mass (Joe Walts)
Re: Heat calculations and thermal mass (Calvin Perilloux)
Boston Homebrew Competition - Call for Judges (Eric Wooten)
Thermal Mass (Kevin Elsken)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

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instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:42:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt <baumssl27 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Heat calculations and thermal mass

> I am wondering what is the cause of this discrepancy.

Slaking heat! The hydration of malt involves chemical
reactions that release significant amounts of heat. Thus
it *appears* to require less heat than expected to bring
the cold mash tun up to mash temp.

For not very detailed details, take a look at Malting and
Brewing Science by Briggs and Shanks on google books, and
search for "slaking heat." A 5F temp shift is indicated
under pretty standard conditions.

For single infusion mashes at 150F at 1.5 qt/lb in my
system, the two effects cancel well enough that I routinely
ignore them both and hit mash temps to within 1F (and I
don't measure my strike water volume with much care, either).

Unfortunately it's not always so easy. Mash tun thermal
mass and slaking heat have different effects under different
mash conditions and a single "fudge factor" can't account
for both of them at once. More calculation complexity is
needed to account for them well. Further, theoretical values
are not easy to come by and at least for me the numbers in
the above reference don't work well (half works much better).
This is not surprising given the complex nature of the
reaction, different malt grinds, many variables, etc.
I think one would have to be very lucky to arrive at a formula
to predict mash temps to within, say, 1F on a given system
without some fairly thorough observations of different mashes
on that system.

Matt



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:08:02 -0500
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Lansing Water

The water in question has Ca: 20, Mg: 9.7, Na: 44, SO4: 70; Cl: 46,
HCO3 42.1 all assumed to be mg/L which is a reasonable assumption as
those units cause the profile charge imbalance to be only 4% which is
pretty good i.e. the profile is consistent (I assumed pH 7.5 at 20 C).
This water is not very hard (total hardness 89.8 ppm as CaCO3 of which
37 is temporary) nor very alkaline (37 ppm as CaCO3) with a very
modest Residual Alkalinity of 17 ppm as CaCO3 from which an upward pH
shift (relative to distilled water) of only 0.03 is to be expected.
IOW no action should be required to set mash pH with base malts and
even a small amount of colored malt should result in a good value.

The water is well undersaturated with respect to calcium carbonate
i.e. no calcium carbonate would be expected to precipitate upon
standing but somewhat over saturated with respect to CO2 so that gas
can be expected to escape over time with a gradual increase in pH.

It has fair amounts of sulfate and chloride so beers made with it may
have a round, full bodies character and hops will be perceived as
somewhat dry and a bit rough. You couldn't use this water for delicate
continental lagers or similar beers because of the sulfate. There may
be a mineral crispness to beers made with this water and perhaps a
hint of saltiness (does it taste salty from the tap?).

Adding gypsum at the rate of 0.5 gram/liter (12.5 grams in 25 L)
obviously increases the sulfate (to 349 mg/L) and the calcium
hardness (total to 380 while temporary hardness stays the same as the
hardness exceeds the alkalinity) dramatically. The extra calcium
decreases the residual alkalinity to -67 ppm as CaCO3 which predicts a
decrease of mash pH (relative to a distilled water mash) of 0.11 pH.
Because a lot of doubly charged ions (Ca++, SO4--)have been added the
ionic strength changes enough to induce a small pH shift in the water
itself (about 0.02 pH in the acid direction) but the water is still
undersaturated (saturation pH is 7.83) with respect to calcium
carbonate because the alkalinity is so low below 1 mEq/L (50 ppm).
Adding gypsum does not change alkalinity. It, therefore, not likely
that boiling will cause anything to precipitate (as it would in harder
waters with higher alkalinity). Boiling, as a rule of thumb, reduces
hard, carbonate water alkalinity down to about 1 mEq/L (50 ppm as
CaCO3) and this water is below that (even post treatment).

All the information extracted from the basic water report presented
here came from my water analysis spreadsheet which is at
http:/www.wetnewf.org/Brewing_articles/BURP_OCT08
IOW, you can get all this info yourself if you are so inclined though
expect to spend some time trying to figure the thing out. There are
extensive instructions but I know this is complex stuff (based on how
many years it has taken me to get this far).

A. J.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 09:17:20 -0500
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: Thermal Mass of Mash Tuns

It's been a while since we did the algorithms for ProMash so I'd have
to go back and look at some notes but as I recall the big problem with
pouring hot water into a tun at room temperature is that the water
loses so much heat in the transfer that it throws the calculation off.
Thinking it over it seems a better way might be to fill the tun with a
known mass of water at room temperature, heat the water to a few
degrees above room temperature, let it equilibrate (stand for an hour
or so with occasional stirring) or put some hot water in the tun and
let it stand, with stirring, until its temperature is a few degrees
above room temperature and then add a known mass of water at room
temperature. This prevents heat loss from either the water in the tun
(even if it's a few degrees above ambient some heat will be lost but
the rate of loss is proportional to the temperature difference) or the
water added. Note that I say known "mass" of water. Probably the best
way to do this would be to put the tun on a scale. When its empty you
have its weight (not that you really need that) but you can tare it to
measure the mass of warm water and then take the difference after you
add the cooler water. I'm talking mass here because the volume of a
given mass of water does change appreciably with temperature (several
percent). Another thing to be aware of is that the heat capacity of
water does change somewhat as a function of temperature. I handled
this relatively simply by computing an average over any given
temperature range i.e. if you go from T0 to T1<T0 when you add cold
water the average heat capacity is simply (1/(T0-
T1))*Integral_from_T1_to_T0[Cp(T) dT)]. You can find Cp(T) in
handbooks, Wikipedia etc. Errors induced by ignoring this will be much
smaller than errors induced by ignoring density changes and being
unable to control heat losses.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:33:03 -0600
From: Joe Walts <jwalts at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Thermal Mass

Hey Bill, just a couple of quick and dirty guesses here:

First off, you're not raising the temperature of your entire mash tun to the
desired mash temperature. Instead, you're creating a gradient through the
vessel walls where the inside surfaces are at the mash temperature and the
outside surfaces are at ambient temperature. The latter scenario requires
less heat energy from the strike water, Unless you model the gradient in
your heat capacity calculation, your experiment will result in a lower
thermal mass.

The second complication is the time. How long does it take the system
become stable, i.e. to where you're slowly losing heat to the atmosphere
instead of to the vessel itself? I have no idea, so I just overheat my
strike water by 10 degrees, dump it in the mash tun and wait to add the
grain until the water cools to my desired strike temperature (which doesn't
include the thermal mass of the mash tun in its calculation).

Joe


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:56:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Heat calculations and thermal mass

Regarding Bill Pierce's formulas for thermal mash...
That's good research for an English major, Bill! ;-)

> 0.119*32.92 = 3.92
> Unfortunately this is in conflict with the value
> I arrived at (1.918 lbs.) based on my formula and
> experiment with hot water as described above.

You are now into the scientific area best explained by this quote:

"Well, that's great in practice, but does it work in theory?"

Without delving too much into the formulas, and not having my
trusty CRC handbook nearby anyway, I'll highlight a few things
to consider, not only for your setup but for others:

The structure of your vessel can have some significant effect.
In the case of a converted keg, the heavy rings top and bottom
are to some extent isolated from the rest of the body. Sure,
it's thermally attached as one piece of stainless, but my guess
is that the conduction might not be great enough to rapidly
heat those. That would leave the body of the keg absorbing
most of the heat and not the edges.

So in your empirical tests it could show a lower thermal heat
because those outer areas are not being heated (as much).

In other cases, such as people using stainless pots for mash
tuns, the handles are a minimal factor (as above), but keep
in mind that there is often an aluminum layer in the base
(for heat distribution because stainless is such a poor heat
conductor), and this might make it hard to get the results
just right on paper -- do you know how much the alu-sandwich
inside there weighs?

There is also the heat loss that you encounter in bringing
the hot water to the mash tun and pouring it. I find that
this is not that large but definitely not insignificant.

In my own opinion, the very best way to do this is to just
do the empirical work on your own system and use that number.
When you do that, the heat loss, mixed-metal proportion, and
structural features will all be accounted for in your end result.

Calvin Perilloux
Middletown, Maryland, USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 10:19:58 -0500
From: Eric Wooten <ecwooten at gmail.com>
Subject: Boston Homebrew Competition - Call for Judges

The 14th Boston Homebrew Competition is coming up on Saturday, February
28th. It will be held at the law offices of Holland and Knight, located in
the Back Bay region of Boston about 2 blocks from the Public Garden (Back
Bay and Arlington Stations are within easy walking distance for those
traveling by MBTA). Preliminary counts yield a total of 271 entries this
year (the entry window is now closed). We are still looking for both
experienced and novice judges and stewards to help with this years
competition.

If you are able to help with judging or stewarding, please fill out the
judge registration form at http://bhc.wort.org/judgereg.shtml.
Further details about the judging process can be found at:
http://bhc.wort.org/judgeinfo.shtml. Although the competition site is easily
accessible by the T and Commuter Rail, on site parking is available and the
competition will cover parking fees for all individuals who register in
advance.

Important Note: As the competition will be held in a secured building,
pre-registration to judge or steward is required. Building security needs a
list of people to provide to their check-in desk in advance of the
competition.

If you have already signed up to help out: thanks in advance for helping us
put on another great competition; Mark Irwin, the judging coordinator for
BHC 14, will be contacting you soon with the final details. If any of you
have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

Eric Wooten, Competition Organizer (organizer at wort.org)
Mark Irwin, Judging Coordinator (irwin at wort.org)
Wade Hicks, Entry Organizer (treasurer at wort.org)


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:17:27 -0500
From: Kevin Elsken <littleboybrew at verizon.net>
Subject: Thermal Mass

Bill,

First of all, for goodness sakes man, come over to the dark side and
just use the metric system! It is just so much better and easier.

Anyway, I have gone through many turns trying to hammer out thermal mass
values to give consistent mash temperatures. I suspect won't be the
first to mention that your calculation implies your entire mash tun was
heated from 70 def F to 157 deg F. In truth, only a portion of the 32
lb+ tun is actually increasing in temperature from 70 to 157. The
converted kegs have heavy rolled rings around the top and bottom that
most certainly did not change temperature that much. According to the
quick calculations I made, the water lost about 176 kJ, but it would
require almost 361 kJ to raise your mash tun from 70 to 157 F.

Incidentally, insulated coolers are primarily polyurethane foam, which
has a heat capacity of about 1.5 kJ/kg. The trick to the calculation
with an insulated cooler is that due to the excellent insulation value
of the cooler, the outside remains at ambient temperature, so the actual
temperature rise is only about one half the difference between the
inside and outside of the cooler.

Kevin Elsken
Little Boy Brewery
Upper Saint Clair, PA


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5508, 02/19/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5507 (February 18, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5507 Wed 18 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Helium ("Craig S. Cottingham")
Re: Helium (beerdan)
RE: Helium (Josh Knarr)
Water Questions (Jim Stansell)
Heat calculations and thermal mass (caution: geek alert) ("Bill Pierce")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:21:26 -0600
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Helium

On Feb 17, 2009, at 14:35, "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> wrote:

> Got my CO2 tank filled yesterday. On the way out of the shop I saw
> a helium
> tank. Brewers being mad scientists by default, I thought to myself,
> "wouldn't that be an interesting party trick, Helium 'carbonated'
> beer."
> Take a sip, then sing, "We represent, the lollipop guild...."


Interesting idea, but it wouldn't work. The solubility of helium in
water is one one-thousandth that of carbon dioxide at beer
temperatures. Nitrogen is ten times more soluble than helium, so
imagine a Guinness stout tap, but a lot less so.

- --
Craig S. Cottingham
BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent
Rennerian)
craig.cottingham at gmail.com
+1 (913) 826-6896 or Skype me at CraigCottingham

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:22:54 -0500
From: beerdan at optonline.net
Subject: Re: Helium

You'll find there are several problems with this. First is the cost. Helium is
expensive compared to other gases as it is not abundant in our atmosphere.
Also, I don't have the numbers in front of me but helium does not easily
diffuse in liquids unless the pressure is very high or the temperature is very
cold, or both. Instead of about 10 psi for CO2, you may have to triple or
quadruple it for helium to achieve a similar level of 'carbonation' or
heliumnation' as the case may be. And then, when you released the
pressure when dispensing, it would immediately come out of solution,
leaving a flat beer behind.

I would be curious to see what a head of helium foam would look like.
Helium being the second smallest atom.. would the bubbles be microspoic
and produce a thick, small head or blow right through and leave nothing
behind?

Not a very techie answer but my experience comes from scuba diving and
the use of enriched air nitrox and trimix (oxygen, nitrogen, helium mix)
gases and the effects of them when under pressure in the blood stream.

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:35:49 -0800
> From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
> Subject: Helium
>
> Got my CO2 tank filled yesterday. On the way out of the shop I saw a helium
> tank. Brewers being mad scientists by default, I thought to myself,
> "wouldn't that be an interesting party trick, Helium 'carbonated' beer."
> Take a sip, then sing, "We represent, the lollipop guild...."
>
> Anyone tried it?
>
> Chad Stevens
> QUAFF
> San Diego
> www.sdfair.com/beer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:57:30 -0500
From: Josh Knarr <josh.knarr at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Helium

The helium works by going into your lungs so your vocal chords vibrate
much more quickly.

It wouldn't be funny until someone burped, but then it wouldn't be
funny anyway because the beer would taste weird. Helium is colorless
and odorless, and probably tasteless as well. Unless you made a beer
which didn't want to be heavily carbonated, helium probably wouldn't
fly. (pun intended). I would think there's a serious risk of the beer
going flat.

- --

George Burns - "I would go out with women my age, but there are no
women my age."


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:16:00 -0500
From: Jim Stansell <jim.stansell at comcast.net>
Subject: Water Questions

In the book "Brew Classic European Beers" at home, Wheeler and Protz
comment that their typical water treatment is to add 12g of calcium
sulfate (CaSO4) to about 25 liters of boiling water water, and then
let the precipitate settle out before racking the water off and
leaving the scale behind. Exactly what is being left behind?
Temporary hardness? Permanent hardness?

Here's my water profile (Lansing, Michigan area) in ppm:
Calcium: (Ca) 20
Magnesium (Mg): 9.7
Sodium (Na): 44
Sulfate (SO4): 70
Chloride (Cl): 46
Bicarbonate (HCO3): 42.1

(1) What comments does anyone have about this water?

(2) What would boiling it with CaSO4 accomplish?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:56:11 -0500
From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce at aol.com>
Subject: Heat calculations and thermal mass (caution: geek alert)

Sometimes I get so geeky I scare myself. That's the conclusion as I
continue to revise my brewing spreadsheet, a 10-year work in
progress. My graduate degree was in English, so it's sometimes a
stretch to come to terms with all the math involved.

Lately, I've been looking at the various formulas involving
temperature in mashing, and preparing an article about the subject.
Most of the formulas include a variable called "thermal mass," which
as it relates to brewing is the resistance to changes in
temperature, thereby requiring additional heat to effect a
temperature change. As most all-grain brewers know, the mash tun
temperature is one of the reasons, along with the temperature of the
grain, why the strike water must be quite a bit hotter than the
desired initial mash temperature.

Many homebrewers are acquainted with the thermal mass value from
ProMash. The Help file mentions that it can be set to a
predetermined value between 0 and 1.0, and suggests a value of 0 if
you preheat the mash tun. If not, it suggests initially setting the
value to 0.3 and later adjusting it according to the accuracy of the
results. I could not find any specific formula for calculating the
thermal mass in
this way. The problem is that ProMash is somewhat misleading in its
use of this term. "Thermal mass" implies a weight measured in pounds
or kilograms rather than a kind of "fudge factor" in the
calculations. Indeed if we examine what thermal mass really means,
we discover that the weight of the vessel is involved.

After a lot of working with the math, eventually I derived a more
accurate formula for the temperature of the strike water to achieve
a desired mash temperature:

Ts =
((Td*(ThM+(2.08635*Vw)+(0.4*Wg)))-(Tg*0.4*Wg))-(Tm*ThM))/(2.08635*Wv
)

Where:
Ts = Temperature of strike water to achieve a desired mash
temperature (degrees F)
Td = Desired mash temperature after addition of grain and strike
water (degrees F)
ThM = Thermal mass of mash tun (pounds)
Vw = Volume of strike water (quarts)
Wg = Weight of grain (pounds)
Tg = Temperature of grain (degrees F)
Tm = Temperature of mash tun (degrees F--unless it is preheated,
this is the ambient air temperature)

The 0.4 coefficients are the published heat capacity of malt (with a
moisture content of 4 percent); by convention the heat capacity of
water is 1.0. The 2.08635 coefficients are the weight in pounds of 1
quart of water. Metric brewers can substitute degrees C for degrees
F and kilograms for pounds without changing the formula. As for the
water volume, if you are using liters, omit the 2.08635 coefficient.
Conveniently, the metric system is based on 1 liter of water
weighing 1 kilogram.

The benefit of this formula over others is that it takes into
account both the thermal mass of the mash tun and the mash tun
temperature. A deficiency of some brewing software is that the
strike water temperature calculations can be in error if the mash
tun is very cold, for example, in the winter. Accounting for the
temperature of the mash tun resolves this issue.

The formula raises the question of what is the mash tun thermal mass
value. Apart from some suggestions in the ProMash Help file and
elsewhere, there is very little published about this subject.
However,
it is possible to determine the mash tun thermal mass value
empirically. By rearranging the terms, if the other values are
known, the equation above can be solved for the vessel's thermal
mass (I omitted the grain values because I wanted to experiment with
water only). It becomes:

ThM = ((Ts-Td)*2.08635*Vw)/(Td-Tm)

The result will be the vessel's thermal mass in pounds or kilograms.
Metric brewers can directly substitute the temperature values in
degrees C, the weight in kilograms and the volume in liters,
omitting the 2.08635 coefficient for the water volume conversion to
mass in pounds.

To use the formula, measure the temperature of the empty vessel
(Tm). Normally this is the same as the ambient air temperature.
Heat the volume of strike water (Vw) for a typical batch at a
typical strike
water temperature (Ts). Add the hot water to the vessel. Cover, wait
a few minutes and measure the water temperature (Td). Use the
formula to calculate the vessel's thermal mass (ThM). Once again,
metric brewers can use their units and omit the 2.08635 coefficient
that converts the water volume in quarts to mass in pounds.

Using this formula, I did an experiment with hot water and my own
converted keg mash tun. Using 16 quarts of water at 162 F and an
ambient air temperature of 70 F, it resulted in a final temperature
of 157 F and a thermal mass value of 1.918 lbs.

Beyond empirical measurement, the thermal mass can be calculated
based on the thermal properties of a vessel's material. While I
wouldn't care to hazard a guess about the composition of plastic
coolers (the outer shell and inner insulation), stainless steel has
measured heat properties. If you mash in a converted keg or pot made
of 304 stainless, there is published data for the specific heat,
that is, the
amount of energy in joules per gram (or kilojoules per kilogram)
necessary to raise the temperature 1 degree Kelvin (or Celsius).
This value is 0.50 kJ/kg. If we convert this value to that which is
relative to water (specific heat 4.19 kJ/kg), we can ignore the
measuring system (metric or American/British). Therefore the heat
capacity of 304 stainless relative to water is 0.5/4.19 = 0.119.
This is true for temperatures measured in both degrees Celsius and
Fahrenheit.

The thermal mass depends on the mass (weight) of the vessel as well
as the heat capacity. It is necessary to weigh the vessel in order
to calculate the thermal mass. Using the heat capacity of 304
stainless to calculate the thermal mass of my own converted keg mash
tun, and multiplying by the measured weight of 32.92 lbs., I arrived
at a value of 3.92 lbs:

0.119*32.92 = 3.92

Unfortunately this is in conflict with the value I arrived at (1.918
lbs.) based on my formula and experiment with hot water as described
above. I am wondering what is the cause of this discrepancy. In the
interest of brewing science, perhaps someone who is as geeky as I am
could shed some light on this. I will give credit for the assistance
when I publish my article.

Brew on!

Bill Pierce
Cellar Door Homebrewery
Burlington, Ontario

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5507, 02/18/09
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5506 (February 17, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5506 Tue 17 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

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501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
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tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
yeast propgation (Rob Schlank)
Re: Should I repitch? (Stephen Jorgensen)
Should I repitch? (Scott Birdwell)
Helium ("Chad Stevens")
more yeast perf ... pt 1 ("Steve.Alexander")
more yeast perf ... pt 2 ("Steve.Alexander")
Kalamazoo Stout (Tim Eitniear)
2009 South Shore Brewoff - competition announcement ("jeff_ri")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 09:11:56 -0500
From: Rob Schlank <rschlank at comcast.net>
Subject: yeast propgation

Joshua WIlkins wrote, "The smack packs that Wyeast uses
contains nutrients and the sachet that you pop on the inside is the yeast
cells."

Not to nitpick, but this is incorrect. The sachet contains the nutrients,
not the cells. You can, if you wish, pitch the cells into a starter without
'smacking' the sachet. This is per Dave Logsdon at Wyeast in an interview, I
believe from an old TBN show. I have done this myslef several times, though
now I smack the pack just to get the nutrients into the starter as well.

- --
Rob Schlank


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 09:35:17 -0600
From: Stephen Jorgensen <stephen at ultraemail.net>
Subject: Re: Should I repitch?

"I have an IPA in the secondary for about 10 weeks. It looks clear and tastes
decent upon sampling."


In my experience there is no more disappointing result in home brewing
than a bottle of sweet, flat beer. Yes you should use fresh yeast to
package your IPA but an entire envelope is not necessary.

I don't have the correct cells / ml numbers to hand but I am sure there
are multitudes of brewers reading HBD that know them by heart. I
generally use about 1/10 the amount for bottling as I did when pitching
the wort. In the case of Danstar Nottingham (no affiliation) which is
my bottling yeast of choice I use 2-3 g for a 6 gallon batch. For an
IPA I would go with 3.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:37:03 -0600
From: Scott Birdwell <defalcos at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Should I repitch?

Regarding Tom Puskar's question, "Should I repitch. . ."

"For a number of reasons ranging from illness, work and family issues,
I have
an IPA in the secondary for about 10 weeks. It looks clear and tastes
decent upon sampling.

I'm hoping to bottle it (FINALLY) this coming week and wondered if I
should
add some additional yeast for carbonation. I keep a few envelopes of
dry
yeast around and could proof one up and add it to the bottling
bucket. I
haven't checked the gravity in a few weeks but last check it was around
1.015 and hadn't changed for a while."

Tom,
It's like chicken soup. . . it couldn't hurt! Just rehydrate the
dried yeast in some lukewarm water and mix it thoroughly into the beer
just before/after you mix in your priming sugar. You should have
carbonated beer within a couple of weeks. Good luck!

Scott Birdwell
DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies
Houston TX


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:35:49 -0800
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: Helium

Got my CO2 tank filled yesterday. On the way out of the shop I saw a helium
tank. Brewers being mad scientists by default, I thought to myself,
"wouldn't that be an interesting party trick, Helium 'carbonated' beer."
Take a sip, then sing, "We represent, the lollipop guild...."

Anyone tried it?

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego
www.sdfair.com/beer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:03:56 -0500
From: "Steve.Alexander" <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: more yeast perf ... pt 1

Uhoh - 8k bouncy bouncy

I've used imprecise language and now several ppl have posted their own
(sometimes odd) views on terminology and we are making a mish-mash of
this discussion. In common use "ferment" merely means microbiological
activity. I didn't really think we need/want to delve so deeply on this
one but ....

According to Brock's "Biology of Microorganisms", a very widely used and
highly regarded text we have ... "Fermentation - Catabolic reactions
producing ATP in which organic compounds serve as both primary electron
donors and ultimate electron acceptors and ATP is produced by
substrate-level phosphorylation". And, "Respiration - Catabolic
reactions producing ATP, in which either organic or inorganic compounds
are primary electron donors and organic or inorganic compounds are
ultimate electron acceptors". If you study the definitions carefully
you will see that respiration is any ATP energy pathway, while
fermentation additionally requires organic donors, organic acceptors and
substrate-level phosphorylation (as opposed to oxidative phosphorylation
pathway). Brock divides catabolic pathways into "aerobic respiration"
and "anaerobic respiration", and OBVIOUSLY he's not referring to the
environment but the metabolism.

According to Brock's ... Fermentation IS a type of respiration !!!!
Aerobic/Anaerobic can and usually does refer to the metabolism NOT the
environment.
. so perhaps we all get a big fat F- for terminology.

Nester-Robert-Nester "Microbiology", and Stryker "Biochemistry" says
that respiration requires any inorganic electron acceptor.
Mathews-vanHolde*, *"Biochemistry", says respiration requires oxygen as
the electron acceptor.

===========
The two concepts we are trying to distinguish here are related to how
the metabolic phosphorylation of ADP to ATP occurs, but thats awfully
deep into the nuts & bolts.

In conventional brewery fermentation with Saccharomyces yeast (of
course) none of the catabolic(energy producing) pathways use free
oxygen. Brewery yeast induce sugar or create these from enzymatic
breakdown of sugar polymers.

First, each hexose sugar is converted to two pyruvates + 2 H2O + energy
as a net +2 ATP. This is known as the Embden-Meyerhof-Parnas (EMP)
pathway and is one of several glycolytic pathways. The ATP is produced
by substrate-level conversions of bisphosphoglycerate and
phosphoenolpyruvate.

The pyruvate can readily, enzymatically be converted to lactate (as in
your muscles) acetate+formate or acetaldehyde+CO2. In yeast the
pyruvate is converted to acetaldehyde+CO2 and the acetaldehyde is
reduced (the organic electron acceptor) into ethanol.

The EMP pathway also converts 2 NAD+ to 2 NADH and this is a great
energy store (1 NADH can be converted to 3 ATP with some oxygen) BUT to
accomplish the redox balance all of the NADH must be used to reduce
acetaldehyde to ethanol. In anaerobic condition it is always necessary
to use the NADH of glycolysis to reduce the pyruvate product.

No oxygen is required for this catabolic pathway, and the net energy
yield is only 2 ATP per hexose.

- --
Under ABNORMAL conditions we can get brewing yeast to use another
catabolic pathway using sugars. The yeast induce sugars as before. The
EMP glycolytic pathway occurs too producing pyruvate and ATP as before.
The next pathway is the "Citric Acid Cycle"(CAC) , aka Tri-Carboxylic
Acid Cycle(TCA) and more formally as the Szent-Gyorgyi/Krebs cycle (note
Szent-Gyorgyi is one guy). The major plot is that the 3-carbon chain
pyruvate is converted to 3 CO2 molecules by repeated decarboxylation.
First the pyruvate is converted to AcetylCoA+CO2, then the Acetyl-CoA
plus an oxalacetate(from...see below) becomes ketoglutate+CO2, then
the ketoglutarate becomes succinyl-CoA+CO2 and finally the succinyl is
reverted to oxalacetate and added back at the start of the next cycle.

The CAC+Glycolysis results in net yield 38ATP of energy per hexose and
only 4 of the ATPs of the total produced are by substrate-level
phosphorylation, the rest by oxidative phosphorylation.
========

Heading out of the chem lab and back toward the brewery .....

There are some silly notions perpetrated and/or perpetuation by poorly
researched HB books. Brewery yeast under normal brewing conditions
NEVER use the CAC cycle (almost never). Not even when they are pitched
into well oxygenated normal wort. Now IF you use an open fermenter then
after all the sugars are used up the yeast can oxidize ethanol back into
aldehyde then convert to acetyl-CoA which can then enter the CAC cycle
and yields a lots of energy. The "back up the tree" process can also
throw off some lactate and acetate. It's unclear how rapidly this path
can operate but distilleries use open fermentation and I've seen figures
indicating that a few percent of the ethanol is used per 24 hours of
extra delay. I would imagine that oxygen is a limiting factor in those
conditions.

If you can grow yeast with their metabolism using the CAC cycle, then
there are some metabolic and environmental differences. The yeast are
constantly exposed to free oxygen (needed for the oxidative
phosphorylation) and so they don't accumulate squalene (a precursor to
sterol) but instead they contain a high level of sterol. Similarly
with ever present oxygen yeast can construct (mostly mono-) unsaturated
fats and so these yeast have the best cell membranes around. As the
yeast hit a growth limitation then I would expect that they will store
"storage carbohydrates" abnormally; glycogen accumulates in response to
growth limitations, but also degrades in the presence of oxygen.
Trehalose accumulates in response to a wide array of stresses including
nutrient deficit. So pitching yeast that have finished in aerobic
metabolism is probably nearly ideal except for glycogen, and that's
probably not terribly important unless you plan to store the yeast (then
an anaerobic final finish w/ a little sugar added might be best); and
since these are high in UFA&Sterol so there is less need to aerate the wort.

Yeast in anaerobic conditions suppress the enzymes of the CAC cycles,
and in aerobic conditions they suppress the creation of cytochomes that
are involved in the electron transport for redox balance (far less is
needed). This is NOT a big deal unless you are the sort who gets
ants-in-the-pants if a fermenter isn't bubbling in 20 minutes.

- --
(continued)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:04:25 -0500
From: "Steve.Alexander" <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: more yeast perf ... pt 2

(continued)

Kai T suggests ....


>> > > It might be that low gravity propagation isn't
>> > > good either b/c the yeast may get uses to the lower alcohol/sugar
>> > > concentration both of which are stress factors.
>>
No. High gravity is just a ion pump stressor (yeast must expend more
energy moving ions across cell membranes) and there is no way to
accumulate a tolerance to the added workload except to include more
sterol & UFA per cell to reduce "leakage". It's always best to
propagate yeast at 5-7P.

Joshua Wilkins mentions his experience with a commercial propagator but
.. this doesn't exactly hit the mark either. This sort of propagation
is aimed at providing oxygen to yeast culture, such as a scintered stone
would, but it is not aimed or creating conditions for aerobic metabolism
(the CAC cycle). There is nothing very expensive about scaling this
down to HB level.

His other comments fall solidly into the "old brewers tales" category.
That yeast develop resistance to ethanol and hops doesn't match anything
I've ever read anywhere - and the fact is that all fermentation produces
intracellular ethanol. The "resistance" or more correctly high
tolerance of high level is of extracellular ethanol is from several
studies only related to cell membrane quality and the absence of the
environmental stressors like excess CO2 in solution and the presence of
several specific amino acids which reduce the osmotic stress effect.
When repitching into a barleywine you can and should use sterol&UFA rich
yeast propagated at ~5P.

The idea that you should walk yeast through the sugars they consume (the
order glucose,fructose, maltose, maltotriose is common) before you plop
them into fresh wort has absolutely no advantage. The presence of
glucose inhibits the transport of the maltose & maltotriose ; maltose
inhibits the maltotriose and so on ... and the enzymes for transport
and hydrolysis simple don't last long enough to make any difference at
all. There may be a slight advantage in propagating yeast on glucose
since it's the first sugar they'll get at pitching, , but frankly it's
pretty far down the "don't care" list. So long as the yeast is
reproducing correctly and has the necessary nutrients, then they carry
all the genetic machinery to produce (and alternatively inhibit) the
right enzymes for their *current* conditions and it only takes minutes
for them to make a transition if healthy.

*IF* (this is a huge if) you could force yeast into using the CAC cycle
they would produce roughly 10X the biomass per unit sugar so wort would
be too deficient in nutrients to be useful. Adding nitrogen can
alleviate the nitrogen deficit *BUT* I've recently read that (low)
nitrogen plays a huge role in keeping yeast in aerobic-respiration
metabolism. If nitrogen is low then respiration is preferred (low
nitrogen limits sugar transport), but the low nitrogen also inhibits
growth rate. So you really need to carefully feed both sugar and
nitrogen. Boulton & Quain "Brewing Yeast and Fermentation", suggest
that the only way to get yeast to respire is to slowly feed sugar in a
very low nitrogen environment or to use a chemostats under carbon
(sugar) limitation. A chemostat is a bit of lab gear that allows one to
adjust the input rates into fermenter (with corresponding output) so
that the vessel contains a stable culture. It's not useful for biomass
creation. There are about 3 dozen well know required yeast nutrients
aside from nitrogen and a carbon source(sugar ...) and these won't come
cheap. Urea and a good yeast nutrient are a start but what exactly
provides biotin and pantothenic acid and enzyme cofactors and in what
proportion ?

The only other CAC approach that makes sense is to use a substrate than
cannot undergo glycolysis - so feed your yeast pyruvate or lactate or
ethanol, xylitol or certain glycosides and let then run it thru the CAC
cycle. These are some so called "oxidative substrates", but the trouble
is that aside from pyruvate, which yeast can use which substrate is hit
or miss (The UK NCYC has very incomplete tables for their yeasts).
Then we have the question of how fast can yeast really use oxidative
substrates. This may make this approach even more impractical; I
believe that most can use ethanol, but the rate may be too slow to
provide a decent propagation method.

Trying to grow yeast with CAC metabolism is an interesting hack, but
ultimately costly and difficult. I might feel differently if sugar was
vastly expensive or else if pyruvate and other nutrients very cheap; but
just the opposite is true. It may have a place in producing yeast for
freeze-dried storage, but that's a special application I don't need to
practice. If you learn to do this cheaply and effectively please drop a
note, b/c it would be a great propagation technique.

The only really practical approach I see here is that if you bump oxygen
into a conventional wort starter (say on a stir plate or with a stone)
then your yeast will still be well supplied with UFA and sterols and
you'll have the happy co-incidence that wort has about the right mix of
sugar and nutrients to grow yeast using glycolysis only.

As a very relevant aside, Boulton pioneered the "yeast oxygenator"
method used commercially as Bass Brewers Limited. They take a yeast
slurry, presumably from a finished batch, and add just a bit of 3P wort,
then the add continuous oxygen over a period of several hours. They
continuously measure the yeast oxygen uptake rate. In about 3 hours
the oxygen uptake rate peaks then it drops to a low figure after another
3-4 hours. At that point the yeast have degraded their glycogen store
and produced all the sterol possible. This is pitched directly into
UNoxygenated wort in fermenter. They give figures showing the beer
attenuation rate is superior and far more consistent than wort
oxygenation. Also the there is no significant difference in esters or
other flavor active yeast by-products.

Yeah - by all means get a lot of oxygen into the starter, and less into
the wort ! But there isn't any practical gain to pushing the metabolism
to oxidative phosphorylation on the HB scale.

-S


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 20:17:10 -0600
From: Tim Eitniear <timeitniear at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Kalamazoo Stout

Hi,
Trying to clone this lovely beer. Found something in the archives from
2002 and I have the zymurgy articles from 2003. Any one have any
suggestions or have found a AG solution to this beer?

Tim
- --
http://nottawaseppibrewing.wordpress.com
A guy walks into a pub with a lump of asphalt on His shoulder, He says to
the bar man give me a pint and one for the road.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:10:38 -0500
From: "jeff_ri" <jeff_ri at cox.net>
Subject: 2009 South Shore Brewoff - competition announcement

The 2009 South Shore Brewoff is the 14th annual homebrew competition
organized by the South Shore Brew Club. The competition is organized to
provide entrants with a high level of evaluation and valuable feedback on
their brewing efforts. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned brewer, we
welcome your participation.

The competition will be held in Mansfield, MA on April 18th, 2009. The
entry deadline is April 3rd, 2009.

All entry information is on the club webpage at:
http://www.southshorebrewclub.org/

Geoffrey McNally (judge coordinator)
Kevin Farrell (competition organizer)


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5506, 02/17/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, February 16, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5505 (February 16, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5505 Mon 16 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Should I repitch? (Tom Puskar)
RE: yeast propagation (Joshua Wilkins)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:54:54 -0500
From: Tom Puskar <tpuskar at optonline.net>
Subject: Should I repitch?

For a number of reasons ranging from illness, work and family issues, I have
an IPA in the secondary for about 10 weeks. It looks clear and tastes
decent upon sampling.

I'm hoping to bottle it (FINALLY) this coming week and wondered if I should
add some additional yeast for carbonation. I keep a few envelopes of dry
yeast around and could proof one up and add it to the bottling bucket. I
haven't checked the gravity in a few weeks but last check it was around
1.015 and hadn't changed for a while.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:27:27 +0000
From: Joshua Wilkins <jowilki3 at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: yeast propagation


Hey all,

I forgot to mention in my last post on air saturation that the times I gave
were based on sterile filtered Air not O2. O2 will be a lot faster, but O2
also has the downside of creating oxygen free radicals which are very
toxic to cells (same reason we get wrinkles). I used to use O2 in the past
, but switched to sterile filtered air for that reason and because filtered
air is cheaper than O2, but to be honest I have made good beer with
both techniques.

Fred asked:

1)Do you happen to know how Wyeast and White labs propagate the
pitchable quantities of yeast they send to breweries intended to be
pitched directly into their production batches.

I quickly answered this before and the answer is no. I assume they do
use aerobic methods because the biomass yield is much higher. I do
know that one of them ships slurry in 2 liter bottles to be directly
pitched into a 10 BBL batch (about 300 gallons) of beer. Of which, this
slurry is in the dormant state (obviously because the bottle/bags would
explode otherwise), but without activating this domant yeast (making a
starter)with media of some kind, this will lead to a longer lag phase
where the yeast adjust to the new environment as I have described
before. This result WILL lead to longer fermentation times and in some
cases lead to "off flavors". It all depends on what you are looking for in the
beer. In some cases, these "off flavors" are desired, sometimes they are
not they are simply process dependent. The smack packs that Wyeast uses
contains nutrients and the sachet that you pop on the inside is the yeast
cells. Once that sachet is broken they then begin to grow. So if timed right,
the smack pack will be in the middle or end of the exponential growth phase
when pitched. I say this is about 8 hours from when the sachet inside is
broken.

2) I'd venture to say that the propagation is not customized based on the
water profile and nutrients in the batch of wort at the brewery.

Correct, they are based off many factors I am sure and probably deal a
lot with what is cost effective, easily shipped, easily and quickly
manufactured, "shelf stable" etc, etc. This is why a lot of breweries will
simply order slants and then propagate up from there as follows (slant ->
1 Liter starter -> 30 L starter -> production tank (~3000 liters).

3) I also doubt that hops are even included in the propagation. To what
part(s) of "hops" must the yeast produce "resistance"?

Yea, I have no idea if they are or not. The problem comes in that if the
yeast faces ideal conditions all the time, they get accustomed to that and
will eventually drop the resistence gene/genes. The antimicrobial action
comes from the bittering acids, (alpha acids being the largest portion), I am
not going to name all of them here as there are many and the quantity all
depends on the hop variety. As for the gene responsible for this in yeast, I
am not sure of its name and a quick look on google scholar did not yield
anything, but I did find an article on the development of hop resistence by
beer spoilage bacteria. The gene family they have is call the Hor gene family
and it acts by encoding "an ATP depen-dent multidrug transporter that
extrudes hop bitter acids out of bacterial cells." I would imagine the yeast
gene/genes does something similar, but I dont have anything to back that up.

My main two points on yeast starters was this 1) Homebrewers dont have
tools necissary to propagate yeast through exponential phase and keep them
in aerobic growth. Yeast simply metabolize O2 too fast for this and equipment
homebrewers use cant pump O2 fast enough into solution during this growth
phase. Will aerating still result in higher biomass than other means, probably.
Which brings me to point 2) Starters should get yeast cells into prime
production shape with no surprises waiting for them in the fermentor
which means whatever challenges will be faced in the fermentor should be
seen in the starter, otherwise this will result in a longer lag phase and
possible off flavors.This is also the reason the second batch usually tastes
better than the first because the yeast had adapted during the first batch,
yet genetic mutations due to yeast age (#of times replicated) are kept to
a minimum, which is why yeast get changed out every 5-10 batches in
commercial breweries.

As for the Crabtree effect....Well my memory failed me (Doh). I was thinking
it was a specialized case with Glycolysis-TCA cycle being preferred during
aerobic growth, but I had them reversed. So Yes Crabtree effect keeps
yeast producing alcohol whether its in an aerobic or anaerobic environment
unless glucose is less than 0.2%w/w and Glycolysis-TCA cycle is reserved for
specific cases.


Last thing I promise; regardless of how people brew, if you are producing
good beer that you are happy with, then by all means continue doing
what you are doing.

Joshua Wilkins


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5505, 02/16/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5504 (February 15, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5504 Sun 15 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
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********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Low Alcohol Big Beers ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
HBD Server Fund (Fred L Johnson)
O2 Saturation ("A.J deLange")
FW: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation (Joshua Wilkins)
re: Low Alcohol Big Beers (steve alexander)
Re: aerobic growth is not respiration (Fred L Johnson)
2009 Charles Town Homebrew Competition ("H. Dowda")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
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* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
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As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 17:07:55 +1100
From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com>
Subject: Re: Low Alcohol Big Beers

On Friday, 13 February 2009 at 8:32:54 -0600, Eric (Rick) Theiner wrote:
> Hail Brewmeisters,
>
> My preferred brews are big on flavor, body, hops, etc.
> Thus I often brew IPA's and similar, but I would really
> rather not have to deal with the typically accompanying
> high level of ethanol. If I sit down for 3 or 4 over the
> course of a few hours, I'd rather not be intoxicated at the
> end of the evening.

I know the feeling.

> I have been thinking about playing around with high dextrine malts,
> but before I started down that road, I thought I'd ask if anyone on
> this list has done something along those lines...

I've been trying this way for some time. The standard malts available
here in Australia are relatively high in dextrins, but there's more to
flavour than body. I'm brewing my current beers at about 13% Brix and
then diluting 50:50 with water; the flavour is more hop-based than
malt-based. I don't think I'll win any prizes for them, but they're
comparable in body with full-strength commercial beers.

Greg
- --
Finger grog at Freebsd.org for PGP public key.
See complete headers for address and phone numbers.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 07:43:54 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: HBD Server Fund

Hey, guys. Note in the header of the Homebrew Digest the appeal for
us to financially support this great service. The janitors note that
if we all gave a very small amount annually, the HBD can continue
with financial ease. Otherwise, they deal with an endless struggle to
keep the service running.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 08:56:25 -0500
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: O2 Saturation

For Bill Kaiser: When you say "saturation" WRT O2 measurement that
usually means WRT to air i.e. most DO meters will read 100% at about 8
mg/L at reasonably cool temperature. When oxygenating with pure O2,
however, saturation means about 5 times this. When I used to oxygenate
after the wort was in the fermenter (I now do it inline - as the wort
enters the fermenter) I found it would take about 3 minutes to pin my
meter which reads up to 20 mg/L (about twice air saturation and 2/5
pure O2 saturation) using a small(1 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch dia?) sintered
stainless steel stone at a flow rate just sufficient to cause bubbles
to appear at the surface. This I have always found to be sufficient.

Obviously it's going to depend on the flow rate and the size of the
bubbles somewhat. Be sure to move the stone around in the solution.

As I recall the molecular sieves produce about 95% pure O2 so the
results you get should be very similar to what you would get from
bottled O2.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:17:33 +0000
From: Joshua Wilkins <jowilki3 at hotmail.com>
Subject: FW: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation


Hey guys,

I am very busy this weekend, so give me some time to respond back on Mon to
some of the more specific things asked about my post.But I'll answer some now.

"Do you have any ballpark recommendations on how long it would take to
attain 100% saturation using a surplus medical O2 concentrator and an
aquarium airstone? (that I just happen to have)"

Yes, in my industry it is fairly standard to set the run parameters for at
least 45- 60 minutes, although longer is better, before saturation is
accomplished.We then calibrate DO probes to 100% saturation. Speaking
of which since I know some of you have DO probes, be careful how you use
them because they depend highly on how they are calibrated and maintained.
Once calibrated to 100% saturation and zero % saturation, they need to remain
within that media or else they need to be recalibrated to be accurate.
Also the biggest problem with DO probes is that the probe itself needs to
be replaced frequently when used in anything other than water. The media
fouls up the membranes giving rise to inaccurate readings. In my industry
we replace them every third batch, but I have seen in labs using them longer.
But consult your literature on your specific models.

Fred I cannot speak for white labs nor wyeast as I am not affiliated nor have
I seen their facilities. But they are confined within another specific industry
with particular goals (high biomass, sterility, cost, and shipping methods are
probably their biggest issues), so using their methods for brewing should not
be done. But knowing why they do things can help you in brewing. I would
assume they are using aerobic growth for the high biomass yields. But I'll
touch more specifically on your questions on Mon in a separate posting so
I can get into some details.

Matt you are correct that there is a lot of science terminology that gets used
slightly incorrectly as shorthand in industry,so I apologize for the confusion.
But I do have one correction to your statement, respiration more specifically
speaks of the glycolytic pathway which is present in both aerobic and anaerobic
growth phases (including alcoholic fermentation). In alcoholic fermentation
respiration begins with glucose and ends with pyruvate before it gets shuttled
into the actual alcoholic formation or diacytyl pathway.

Also there is a lot of referencing to the Crabtree effect, of which I am also
going to save for my post on Mon because I always confuse it with the pasteur
effect and catabolic repression when going from memory, so I want to go back
to their definitions, but from memory it does not play as critical a role as
you all make it sound. These three are very important effects to know of for
troubleshooting,but they are not as common as you may think. They DO NOT
define or govern a fermentation process, but they do occur in it.

Happy Valentines Day..

Josh Wilkins


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 13:58:24 -0500
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: re: Low Alcohol Big Beers

Rick Theiner mentions,
> My preferred brews are big on flavor, body, hops, etc.
> Thus I often brew IPA's and similar, but I would really
> rather not have to deal with the typically accompanying
> high level of ethanol. If I sit down for 3 or 4 over the
> course of a few hours, I'd rather not be intoxicated at the
> end of the evening.
>
> I have been thinking about playing around with high dextrine
> malts, but before I started down that road, I thought I'd ask
> if anyone on this list has done something along those lines...
>
> And if not, what are your general thoughts on getting to my
> goal of a really big, but low alcohol beer?
>
> Rick Theiner
>

Rick - our preferences have a lot of overlap. I really like flavorful
interesting beers, but for everyday drinking the 15P+ monster beers aren't
a good choice. OTOH alcohol definitely has an impact on body/
mouthfeel.

Perhaps I'm wrong, but my feeling is that (using conventional methods) it's
not possible to create a really big low-alc beer. Flavors like big hops
must
be balanced with big malt. To include so much malt flavor means high OG
and your only choice is to either attenuate the OG into big alc or leave the
OG as big dextrin; neither is acceptable in a session beer IMO. In my
experience if you start around 12P,with attenuation much below 72%AA
by either mashing or loading up on crystal, then you end up with one of
those syrup-y dextrinous beers [gluhbier] that isn't useful as a session
beer.

You can make a very good APA/IPA style beer (perhaps violating the
style guidelines) starting at an OG of 12P, but don't expect to include
75IBU. You'll want to make extravagant use of specialty malt, but
again - the attenuation needs to be reasonably high.

You can push the malt flavors upward by a careful choice of malt .. a
good toasty UKpale malt, or melanoidin or munich malt perhaps, some
wheat then match malt flavors w/ hops. Still, you have a fundamental
limitation; you can only hop to match the malt flavor, the malt flavor is
limited by the OG, and the OG results in either alcohol or dextrin -
checkmate !

It's no wonder that many traditional session beers start like at 7.5-10P,
since w/ modest alc and modest dextrin you can drink many of these
and they still taste good.

-S

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:06:35 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: aerobic growth is not respiration

Matt points out that we should simply refer to respiration versus
fermentation in the discussion of yeast propagation, with respiration
being aerobic whereas fermentation can be aerobic or anaerobic. I
would probably generally agree with this except that many folks use
the phrase "anaerobic respiration" as being equivalent to
"fermentation". To avoid confusion, I will try to use the phrase
"aerobic respiration" to clearly distinguish purely oxidative
production of carbon dioxide and water from the process that yields
carbon dioxide and ethanol.

To reiterate, the production of ethanol is the hallmark of
fermentation. The goal of yeast propagation with very low
concentrations of sugars in the medium in the presence of oxygen is
to convert as much of the energy contained within those sugars into
cell mass rather than to lose it in the mass of ethanol.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 19:49:06 -0800 (PST)
From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com>
Subject: 2009 Charles Town Homebrew Competition

Entries for the first AHA sanctioned Charles
Town Homebrew Competition are being taken.
Entries and paperwork must be in Charleston
S.C by Feb 28. BJCP judges are especially
invited. Enter and help us get homebrewing
competitions going strong in the S.C.
Lowcountry.

Visit:
www.lowcountrylibations.com for complete
info

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5504, 02/15/09
*************************************
-------

Friday, February 13, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5503 (February 13, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5503 Fri 13 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation (bill keiser)
Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation (Fred L Johnson)
Low Alcohol Big Beers (Rick) Theiner" <rickdude@tds.net>
aerobic growth is not respiration (Matt)
Professional Brewing Course in Munich, Germany ("Lemcke Keith")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 23:51:46 -0500
From: bill keiser <bk2 at sharpstick.org>
Subject: Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation

Do you have any ballpark recommendations on how long it would take to
attain 100% saturation using a surplus medical O2 concentrator and an
aquarium airstone? (that I just happen to have)
bill keiser

> As for aeration, I say aerate the wort until it is 100% saturated then pitch
> the yeast. No more is needed for both the starter and the production
> fermentor. But I do support the use of stir plates for starters mainly to
> keep the yeast from settling.
>
> I tried to keep this basic, but if anyone wants to get into the details
> feel free to ask and I can explain from there.
>
> Josh Wilkins
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:29:43 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation

Joshua:

I appreciate your interest in the yeast propagation topic. I think we
need details to consider the issues you raise.

Do you happen to know how Wyeast and White labs propagate the
pitchable quantities of yeast they send to breweries intended to be
pitched directly into their production batches. I'd venture to say
that the propagation is not customized based on the water profile and
nutrients in the batch of wort at the brewery. I also question
whether the yeast are in their exponential phase of growth during
shipment. I would think that that practice would be a potentially
explosive situation. Are the yeast not in a more stationary phase
when they are shipped?

I also doubt that hops are even included in the propagation. To what
part(s) of "hops" must the yeast produce "resistance"? And exactly
which genes must the yeast activate to "resist" hops that you say is
important in the propagation of yeast prior to pitching?

Lastly, can you confirm that the method that Wyeast and White Labs
uses to propagate the yeast destined for pitching directly into a
production batch at a brewery is by stepping up in a standard fashion?

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 8:32:54 -0600
From: "Eric (Rick) Theiner" <rickdude at tds.net>
Subject: Low Alcohol Big Beers

Hail Brewmeisters,

My preferred brews are big on flavor, body, hops, etc.
Thus I often brew IPA's and similar, but I would really
rather not have to deal with the typically accompanying
high level of ethanol. If I sit down for 3 or 4 over the
course of a few hours, I'd rather not be intoxicated at the
end of the evening.

I have been thinking about playing around with high dextrine
malts, but before I started down that road, I thought I'd ask
if anyone on this list has done something along those lines...

And if not, what are your general thoughts on getting to my
goal of a really big, but low alcohol beer?

Rick Theiner


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:28:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt <baumssl27 at yahoo.com>
Subject: aerobic growth is not respiration

AEROBIC in this discussion means "in the presence of oxygen."

FERMENTATION refers to a specific biological pathway by which
yeast metabolize wort sugars. This can be done whether oxygen
is present ("aerobically") or not ("anaerobically").

RESPIRATION refers to a different biological pathway by which
yeast metabolize wort sugars. This can only be done
aerobically. (Any exceptions to that statement are probably
unrelated to brewing practice).

*When oxygen is present, yeast may metabolize sugar by either
FERMENTATION or RESPIRATION, depending on the Crabtree effect,
etc. But either way the conditions are still AEROBIC.*

I think the folks who have posted on yeast propagation would
agree with me on these things (am I wrong?). But for whatever
reason, some people are occasionally speaking as if respiration
and aerobic growth are the same thing, and using the terms
interchangably. Perhaps this is just a convenient mental
shorthand, but it's frustrating to decipher the intent of
what's being said, and no doubt extremely confusing for those
who aren't familiar with the topic.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 12:43:15 -0500
From: "Lemcke Keith" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com>
Subject: Professional Brewing Course in Munich, Germany

Greetings from Chicago!

With the economy being what it is, there are a lot of people from
homebrew backgrounds that are inquiring about brewing courses towards
building a career as a professional brewer. If you are interested in
making the jump into professional brewing, you should check out our
2-week World Brewing Academy Concise Course starting May 4th in Munich,
Germany. This is an English-language intermediate-level course, and the
Concise Course in both the campus & web-based versions have become our
most popular offering for homebrewers looking to "go pro". If you want
more information on our courses, you can see the full course listing on
the web at http://www.siebelinstitute.com/course_desc/ , and if you have
any questions about building a career in brewing, please don't hesitate
to ask them by e-mail at klemcke at siebelinstitute.com .

Keith Lemcke
Vice-President
Siebel Institute of Technology
World Brewing Academy

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5503, 02/13/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5502 (February 12, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5502 Thu 12 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Aerobic Yeast Propagation (Kai Troester)
Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation (Joshua Wilkins)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:10:58 -0500
From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com>
Subject: Re: Aerobic Yeast Propagation

Ever since I started propagating yeast in a low gravity aerobic
environment I have been paying close attention to propagation
practices used in the industry in order to get an idea of the
drawbacks that such an approach may bring. I know that Danstar
produces their dry yeast aerobically with incremental feeding and I'm
not sure if the other 2 major yeast companies (WYeast and Whitelabs)
do the same. One would imagine that they do b/c their objective is to
get as much yeast as possible out of their raw materials.

But when it comes to yeast propagation in the brewing industry I don't
find references to aerobic yeast propagation. While in the initial
stages the yeast is propagated in an aerobic environment the stength
of the worts uses is strong enough for the crabtree effect to be in
effect which causes fermentation. But that isn't really a problem if
there are enough sugars in the wort as the main objective for the air
is to provide oxygen for the sterol synthesis in the yeast. If O2 is
the limiting nutrient the yeast will have limited sterol reserves and
only weak cell walls. It might be that low gravity propagation isn't
good either b/c the yeast may get uses to the lower alcohol/sugar
concentration both of which are stress factors.

After the initial aerobic stages yeast is commonly propagated with
Drauflassen where only the added wort is aerated and no aeration is
done in between.

In Brewing and Malting Technology Kunze makes a note that freshly
propagated yeast is very healthy. To healthy in fact as it becomes a
poor SO2 producer and that some brewers mix the new yeast with some
old yeast to increase the SO2 production during fermentation. I'm not
sure how relevant this is for home brewing but I have heard home
brewers say that the beer from the 2nd use of a yeast tastes better
than the batch made with freshly propagated yeast.

When I started propagating yeast in an aerobic environment I was
looking for a large vessel to control the foaming (I don't like foam
control, so don't suggest that as a solution ;) ) and turned to a
carboy for that. this also meant that I suddenly had much more volume
to fill and thought it would be much better for the yeast to live in a
low gravity environment anyway.

The fermentations with that yeast have been the fastest I had up to
that point but I still have to see if there is a difference between
propagating in 10l of 2 Plato wort or 2 L of 10P wort when it comes to
fermentation performance and most important taste.

Even if you don't use a pump to aerate your starter making a starter
in a carboy may help you. Simply add the 2 L of starter that you would
use to a sanitized carboy, top off with sterile water (I actually
trust my RO tap) until you have 12-14 l (3-3.5 gal) in there. Add
yeast and shake to aerate the wort. The large head space contains
enough O2 to saturate the wort with it and the large wort volume holds
much more O2 than a 2 L starter would have if it was only aerated once.

Fred,

In your experiments, did you ever do a side-by-side with the same
yeast from different propagation techniques.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:30:53 +0000
From: Joshua Wilkins <jowilki3 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation


I just wanted to throw in a few points to an already extensive conversation.

I do have experience at a professional level with aerobic fermentation and
the biggest problem that I see with this method of propagation for homebrewers
is that the equipment to control such a fermentation is not cheap nor readily
available (we are talking tens of thousands even for a used fermentor and
controller and this is even before the probes are bought). Yes, stir plates,
sinter stones, and even Dissolved oxygen meters are available, but they will
not be sufficient enough to maintain aerobic phase of growth once the yeast
cells (biomass) gets into exponential growth without additional/ more
specialized equipment. I'd say 90% of the air and/or o2 released in this
kind of set up simply exits the top of the vessel due to the scale of
equipment used in the average yeast starter. But the only thing that you
are gaining from aerobic propagation is greater biomass, and yes its
important, but is not the only thing a brewer should want.

The creation of a starter should accomplish the following goals: 1)Expand
the yeast cells to the point where the exponential phase of growth in the
starter can be carried over into the exponential phase of the production
vessel (minimize lag phase in the production vessel). This also means that
the yeast in a starter ideally should have enough nutrients/fermentable sugar
such that they do not enter stationary phase nor become dormant. 2) Have the
yeast cells tread the fine line of being healthy yet also be challenged, This
is mainly referring to a resistance to hops and alcohol. Most people forget
that it takes time for this resistance to develop. The cells have to activate
the genes necessary for these resistances, build the proteins necessary, and
then finally implement the resistance activity and this process can take
several hours. If one gives a completely ideal condition to the yeast, then
the yeast will have to condition themselves in the production fermentor,
which WILL lead to flavor constituents that may not be ideal. 3) You want
to match the nutrients that will be in the wort to those in the starter.
This is due to the fact that yeast have a hierarchy for various sugars and
nutrient pathways. So you want to again expose them early to this so that
genes are activated to create the enzymes necessary for these pathways. Yes,
once they get into the production fermentor they will start at the top of
this hierarchy, but the enzymes will already be made for the more complex
nutrients and can already begin breaking them down.

These to me are the more important points but I can sum up the rest with a
single statement. Match the conditions of your production fermentor to that
of the starter. This does not mean if your doing a high gravity beer then
to do a high gravity starter, it simply means if the production is going to
be a batch fermentation then the starter should be a batch fermentation. If
you are using wort in the fermentor then use wort for the starter. If you are
using a certain water profile with specialized salts then do that in the
starter as well. etc etc.

As for aeration, I say aerate the wort until it is 100% saturated then pitch
the yeast. No more is needed for both the starter and the production
fermentor. But I do support the use of stir plates for starters mainly to
keep the yeast from settling.

I tried to keep this basic, but if anyone wants to get into the details
feel free to ask and I can explain from there.

Josh Wilkins


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5502, 02/12/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5501 (February 11, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5501 Wed 11 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation (Fred L Johnson)
crabtree and yeast (Fred Scheer)
Thanks for the response (robertzukosky)
Eis-Alt, anyone? ("Lance Harbison")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:16:50 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast Performance / Aerobic propagation

Steve presented a good outline of what it would take to propagate
yeast in an aerobic respiratory phase. I especially appreciated
Steve's pointing out that more than the concentration glucose must be
considered--something that was never mentioned in any discussions or
readings I could find. (Steve: The yeast are not "aerobically
fermenting" unless they are producing ethanol, rather aerobic
respiration is the goal, but it was clear what you were describing.)

I played around with aerobic yeast propagation for a couple of years.
One way to do this is to begin the propagation in a small volume of
standard wort with aeration, allow the yeast to completely ferment
the sugars in this wort and then continuously pump in a concentrated
and fortified wort (or other synthetic medium) to this culture so
that the fermentable sugars in the wort are consumed at roughly the
same rate that they are added. One problem I had was that I didn't
have an easy way to determine exactly how fast to pump in the medium,
so I added it more slowly than I probably needed to. Consequently the
yeast were probably perpetually a little hungry, although I don't
know that this was detrimental. I also didn't have any
recommendations on how much of the other nutrients I needed to add.
Steve also did a good job describing this issue.

I got very good yeast growth, but with mixed results when I used
these yeast for fermenting my beer. I'm pretty sure most of my
problems were not that aerobically propagated yeast per se are poor
fermentors. Rather my problems came from my technique or likely my
wort composition, which was probably deficient in some essential
nutrient. (I believe yeast propagated in the respiratory phase are
used by many breweries and certainly in the yeast production plants,
but I don't have any figures or names of breweries using aerobic
propagation methods.)

I found that I got very good yeast growth and good beers using the
typical step-up method with constant aeration and stirring using
standard gravity or relatively high gravity worts added in steps
every several hours so that the ethanol production is minimized and
the gravity of the environment of the yeast was always pretty low.
Consequently, I have abandoned attempts to propagate yeast in a
strictly aerobic respiratory fashion quite some time ago.

Part of the reason I gave up on aerobic propagation was because I
couldn't find a yeast microbiologist interested enough to discuss the
subject with me. Experts in the brewing field just offered me the
equivalent of a, "Huh?", when I described what I was trying to do,
probably because the method is not commonly used or understood. If
there are others out there that really know about this propagation
method, I'd really like to hear from them.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:37:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Fred Scheer <fredscheer07 at comcast.net>
Subject: crabtree and yeast


Kai:
Crabtree effect describes the pathway whereby
yeast produces alcohol anaerobically
in the presence of Glucose in the medium.
Now, what we as brewers want, especially in
the lag phase is producing biomass via the
tricarboxylic acid cycle (Hough, briggs, Stevens,
Malting and brewing science, pp 54, 430 449-53, 579-80).
As the concentration of Glucose is increased,
Glycolysis will be accelerated. In this case,
the need for oxidative phosphorylation is reduced.
Also, the crabtree effect in yeast appears to be
correlated with the inhibition ofn terminal oxidation
and a restriction of the synthesis of the cytochrome system.
basically, in the presence of high concentrations
of Glucose normal mitochondrial structures tend to
disappear, especially the inner membranes.
The effect applies to both, Glucose and fructose.

DME vs. corn sugar

As you know, corn sugar is almost completely fermentable.
In bottle conditioning, I believe this is the easiest
way to produce the calculated amount of CO2 for your product.
DME (in fermentation, as starters!!!) needs a longer time in
the lag phase,but it has the needed yeast
nutrients, where corn sugar does not.
Also, DME is not completely fermentable.

Cheers,

Fred Scheer


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:00:49 -0700
From: robertzukosky <robertzukosky at comcast.net>
Subject: Thanks for the response

I want to thank all who responded to my questions on yeast performance.
The info has been very helpful.
bobz


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:07:56 -0500
From: "Lance Harbison" <harbison65 at verizon.net>
Subject: Eis-Alt, anyone?

At the suggestion of Jeff Renner I took advantage of the Pittsburgh climate
to lager an Altbier made in November on my back porch. During the first
deep freeze of January one full keg froze to the point where it pushed ice
up through the lid. There was nothing to do at that point so I let it be.
Well, in preparation for the last deep freeze (last week) I moved the keg
into my 32F fridge. I decided tonight to pour a glass which would contain
any yeast which may have settled since November. The poured glass was very
syrupy. I initially though that it was because of the yeast at the bottom
of the keg. I then opened the lid, looked inside, and was surprised to see
ice where it should have been beer.

I am now contemplating scooping out the ice and turning the beer into
Eis-Alt. Would this be considered experimental?

Lance Harbison
Pittsburgh


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5501, 02/11/09
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5500 (February 10, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5500 Tue 10 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: Yeast performance (Kai Troester)
yeast performance (Fred Scheer)
re: Yeast performance (steve alexander)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:27:25 -0500
From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com>
Subject: Re: Yeast performance

> I have been growing my yeast <.2% glucose to keep the yeast in the
> aerobic stage. Before pitching I feed the yeast > .2% glucose to force
> the yeast to the anaerobic stage. What if any problems with fermentation
> can be expected from the above? The yeast is constantly fed on a stir
> plate at room temp with access to air at atmospheric pressure. It is
> assumed that extract from a mash at 1.020 has less than .2% glucose.

It is my understanding that when it comes to crabtree effect, which
you are trying to avoid with the low concentration wort, all sugars
fermentable by the yeast matter. a 1.020 wort as about 5% extract of
which 60% are fermentable. Once the glucose and sucrose are consumed
the yeast produces an enzyme that splits the maltose into glucose and
as a result the yeast cell itself sees further glucose.

I started growing my yeast in about 12l of 2 %Plato wort. This is 2 l
of 12 %Plato wort added to 10l of RO water. I do this in a carboy and
constantly aerate with an aquarium stone which also keeps the yeast in
suspension. A blow-off tube is necessary to capture the foam. This has
worked very well for me so far and gives me the most active yeast I
have ever had in brewing.

> Question Two:
> How does DME compare with extract from an all grain mash with regard to
> nutrients for yeast?

It is the same aside from differences in fermentability

Kai


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:56:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: Fred Scheer <fredscheer07 at comcast.net>
Subject: yeast performance

Even you keep your yeast under glucose, yeast will
slowly ferment and will develop CO2. Why do you want
your yeast to be in anaerobic stage before pitching?
What you do is shocking your yeast, i.e., your wort
to be pitched is aerated with DO, and your yeast is
anaerobic. You will have a longer lag phase through
your procedure.
Oxygen is rapidly absorbed by yeast during the
lag phase. Your yeast needs all the Oxygen to
produce important cell wall constituents.

Hope this helps

Fred Scheer


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:24:37 -0500
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: re: Yeast performance

Bobz writes ....
>
> I have been growing my yeast <.2% glucose to keep the yeast in the
> aerobic stage. Before pitching I feed the yeast > .2% glucose to force
> the yeast to the anaerobic stage. What if any problems with fermentation
> can be expected from the above? The yeast is constantly fed on a stir
> plate at room temp with access to air at atmospheric pressure. It is
> assumed that extract from a mash at 1.020 has less than .2% glucose.
> Question Two:
> How does DME compare with extract from an all grain mash with regard to
> nutrients for yeast?

The main problem with this method is ... it doesn't work.

To the minutia - fresh wort & DME have comparable nutrients except the
latter may have somewhat lower FAN.

You are trying to use the crabtree effect (aka catabolite repression)
to force aerobic fermentation and repress the anaerobic fermentation.

This a is a laudable goal. I *strongly* suspect this is what
dried-yeast manufacturers do as the finished stage before drying. The
yeast have large sterol & UFA stores and probably high levels storage
carbos. So it's a great way to propagate yeast.

The problem is it's difficult to maintain the yeast in the aerobic
phase.

If you'd like to read a good discussion look back about 10 yrs in the
HBD arcive for "Tracey Aquilla" and crabtree.

So first off - your 1.020 ~5P wort has 5P (5%) extract which is mostly
(~4.7%) carbohydrates. Of that 4.7P carbs we roughly have

0.05P fructose
0.4P glucose
0.2P sucrose
2.8P maltose
rest - polysaccharides
....
About 20 minutes after the yeast see the sucrose it is hydrolyzed to
equal past fructose and glucose so then we have

0.15P fructose
0.50P glucose.
2.8P maltose
+....

You are reading the crabtree effect backwards. Crabtree says that
even in the presence of oxygen, when you increase glucose >0.4P this
represses aerobic metabolism. It says too much glucose represses
aerobesis. BUT what Crabtree didn't bother to explicitly mention is
that 0.4 of fructose or ~0.8P of maltose also represses aerobic and
the effect of these sugars is additive. You can get catabolite
repression with almost any sugar including non-fermentables. Glucose
and fructose are about equal and maltose, mannose are about half as
effective, galactose about 1/4th as effective.

To prevent the Crabtree effect you need to keep the wort
concentration down around 1P (SG=1.004) roughly. So you'll need to
incrementally feed. Your 5P wort forces catabolite repression and
anaerobic fermentation.

Another approach to aerobic fermentation is to use an aerobic carbon
substrate, like ethanol. Yeast will consume ethanol and convert it to
CO2 and/or acetic acid (depends on their genetics). You need to
supply complete nutrients and O2 of course.

The other problem is the concentration of nutrients. We all know tha
anaerobic fermentation of 12P wort provides enough nutrients and
energy to increase yeast by a factor of 10 roughly, but at that point
FAN is a limiting factor. Also much more energy is liberated by
aerobic fermentation of wort, but no more nutrieant is present per
unit extract.

Put another way:
ANaerobic fermentations produces 5gm yeast/100 gm sugars
Aerobic fermentation produces ~50gm yeast/100gm sugar.

SO you need to boost the nutrients in wort about 10fold (may as well
use sugar at that point - the nutrients of wort are completely
inadequare) for aerobic fermentation. Adding common yeast nutrients
and ammonia salts at ~5gm/100gm sugar is a start.

The other point you are likely underestimating is the amount of free
oxygen necessary. To catabolize 100gm of sugar aerobically requires
about 51 grams of oxygen.

For example you have a 1 liter culture on a stirrer and you add the
crabtree limit of ~1P of wort (~10 grams of sugar) then you'll need 5
grams of oxygen to aerobically ferment this small amount. At
saturation ~16ppm O2 you're flask has ~24 micrograms dissolved O2.
You'll need to turnover the dissolved oxygen about 200K times and do
that in a few hours. ((the rate should increase exponentially w/
yeast but ...)) Then repeat 5 times to use up all 5P of starter.

I really think you should bubble air thru a sintered stone which is
similar to the method use for bread yeast propagation on a molasses
and urea substrate.

Yes - it's hard to get yeast to respire. Hopefully Fred Johnson will
comment on his attempts.

-S


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5500, 02/10/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, February 9, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5499 (February 09, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5499 Mon 09 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: Diatomaceous Earth (steve alexander)
Yeast performance (robertzukosky)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 06:33:27 -0500
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Diatomaceous Earth

Greg asks ....
> Any thoughts about using diatomaceous earth for controlling spider
> mites on hops? Since they don't fly, I was thinking I could apply DE
> to the ground surrounding my hops, and maybe it would be an effective
> control. Mites have absolutely destroyed my harvests for the past few
> years, and I have yet to find anything that will control them
> effectively. Once established, it is too late, they hide in their
> webbing on the underside of the leaves, and only a few need to survive
> to re-establish themselves. I will probably try DE in any case, but
> wondered if anyone else has had success.
>

I'm not a DE fan. DE is a potential hazard if you inhale it so wear a
*GOOD*
mask. It's also a "kill all" method. You are destroying all insects
and arachnids.
That IMO is acceptable for potted/indoor plants but not what you want in
a garden.
Incorporating DE into garden soils is wrongheaded, you are killing all the
beneficials. The idea that it adds needed minerals to a garden is
misguided too.

Some ppl claim that mites usually infest the lower leaves, but I've seen
more
trouble above 6ft than below. This may depend on my specific
environment & mites.
Spider mites spread in-season by the wind and the multiply at a shocking
rate - so
treating the ground just around the hops may help but probably won't
solve the
problem. I've seen a couple examples where the little beggars seem to
spread
horizontally but ~10ft up - so the extent to which local ground spraying
in-season
would be effective is doubtful. Spider mites overwinter on plants, dead
leaves,
twigs etc, so Fall garden cleanup isn't just a matter of appearance.
Cut back the
junk, cleanup and dispose of it.


Most common insecticides don't bother spider mites (arachnids not
insects) and
many can actually increase the mite population by knocking off predators!
There are few very effective miticides commonly available to the home
gardener.
Instead there are some management techniques that will likely reduce the
problem to very tolerable levels without sterilizing your garden.

1/ Dormant oil - the point of a dormant oil spray is to kill the pests
by suffocation.
You want to spray before the hops and other plants start to sprout new
growth.
Rake up the area and give it a good spray early on the bare soil areas
and dormant
woody perennials. Dormant oil can kill new-growth/buds on plants so you
can't use it after budding. This can reduce/delay the problem
considerably but
it's not a complete prevention. Very worthwhile tho', and IMO the most
important
treatment

2/ Insecticidal soap spray. Again the impact is that you suffocate the
insects and
the soaps (salts of mid-length FAs) have a detergent effect that disrupt
small soft bodies
pests effectively. Much less effective on beetles, lady bugs etc.
This is a contact
kill and effective once dried - so spraying when it's humid and/or the
plants are damp
& dewy and spray for complete coverage. My experience is that you'll
need several
sprays per season. I also feel that a pre-emptive soap spray is better
than waiting
for evidence. Insecticidal soaps can burn tender new growth on some
plants, but I've
never seen any damage on hops once the bines are a ~4+ feet long.

Mites seem to like apples, roses, boxwood, (certainly hops), juniper,
daylilies in my
area - so spray to control mites on these. Mites also seem to like
woodland leaf
debris.

In some states you can get permethrin spray which will kill mites and
are about as
safe as any insecticide can be (IMHO). They are controlled b/c these
are quite
effective at killing bees and fish (most any aquatic life) so do handle
& use
properly. Permethrin *may* be most effective against predatory mites (good
mites) and mite eggs. The pyrethrins used to be a good wide-spectrum
knock-down,
but many aphids are now completely immune. The pyrethrins have just a
little
residual activity so you'll want to spray twice at ~ 1 week interval to
disrupt
the mite life cycle.

-S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 13:02:34 -0700
From: robertzukosky <robertzukosky at comcast.net>
Subject: Yeast performance

I have been growing my yeast <.2% glucose to keep the yeast in the
aerobic stage. Before pitching I feed the yeast > .2% glucose to force
the yeast to the anaerobic stage. What if any problems with fermentation
can be expected from the above? The yeast is constantly fed on a stir
plate at room temp with access to air at atmospheric pressure. It is
assumed that extract from a mash at 1.020 has less than .2% glucose.
Question Two:
How does DME compare with extract from an all grain mash with regard to
nutrients for yeast?
bobz


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5499, 02/09/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5498 (February 08, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5498 Sun 08 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Leftovers beer (Alan Semok)
Thermometer calibration ("A. J. deLange")
RE: Vittles Vault Size ("Michael Beck")
(slaycock)
Diatomacious Earth for spider mite control (slaycock)
RE: Leftovers beer (Stephen Jorgensen)


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instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

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cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 23:46:41 -0500
From: Alan Semok <asemok at mac.com>
Subject: Re: Leftovers beer

Fri, 6 Feb 2009 07:13:05, <beaverplt at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Has anyone ever cleaned out their beer cupboard by just using all
> your
> leftovers to make a brew? I...This seems like a fun thing to try.

Go for it.
I've done just that many times and the result is always interesting.
And usually pretty damned good.

This year, I took the concept a step further by saving the bottoms of
every finished brew I made this past year (the dregs or botttom
couple of quarts of each corny, if you will) into a clean corny. I
manage to brew quite a bit, so I had a pretty good quantity, maybe
ending up with 2 or 2 1/2 gallons. It had to settle out for a while,
and was a blend of probably 4 different types of ale...but man...the
end result of this mish-mash is pretty remarkable.
This will without a doubt become a yearly tradition now, for as
long as I'm alive and able to brew.

For more than 20 years my holiday/winter brew has contained at least
10% volume of the previous year's batch (a kind of solera, if you
will) but this new amalgam of every brew of the precious year (except
for the saved winter brew, reserved for the coming year's batch) is
pretty interesting, especially since it is comprised completely of
well aged beer (anywhere from 3 to 12 months old).

If you brew a good volume of beer in a year, I can heartily recommend
trying this!

cheers,
AL

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 08:29:06 +0000
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mac.com>
Subject: Thermometer calibration

Jason has found his "reference" thermometer to be 8 degrees low at
boiling. The first question to Jason is, of course, "Where do you
live?". If the answer is "Denver" or some other place at similar
altitude then nothing is wrong, Water does boil at about 202 F at a
mile high. If, OTOH, you live near sea level first check that the
mercury or alcohol column in the thermometer hasn't some how become
separated and if it hasn't then pitch that thermometer and get a new
one. Having a new thermometer won't solve all calibration problems but
your calibration can never be better than the standard you are
calibrating against. Best would be an RTD based instrument traceable
to NIST shipped with a calibration certificate. Naturally, this will
be somewhat expensive. Second best would be laboratory thermometers
traceable to NIST. These are, relative to the electronic thermometers,
difficult to read because you must immerse them exactly to the marked
immersion point if they are partial immersion or completely if they
are full immersion for best accuracy. In my own setup there is no way
I can read a properly immersed partial immersion thermometer down in
my mash tun so I must remove the temperature probes (RTD's) to a
separate container before comparing to the thermometer.

Conceivably, I could put RTD probe, and lab thermometer into a beaker
with a stir bar on a heater/stir plate and raise the temperature
recording thermometer and RTD readings from near freezing (by adding
ice) up to boiling, then fit a curve to the error and apply
corrections calculated from the fit to the RTD readings when the RTD
is back in the mash tun as the temperature display is done by the
computer but this hardly seems necessary as I simply note the recorded
boiling temperature and if it is within a degree of 212 (I'm near sea
level and the molar strength of wort constituents isn't enough to
shift the boiling point appreciably) I call it good enough. Even if I
am off a bit it is the same bit each time I brew (a shift in
"calibration" would be detectable as a shift in boiling point). If I
think I am saccharrifying at 145 but it's really 144.5 and I find the
beer too dry I'll just go to 147 in the next brew and see what
happens. Even though it may be 146.5 in fact I have effected a 2
degree increase in temperature. IOW, as long as the calibration
doesn't shift (detectable by the BP check) I'm OK with relative moves.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 09:04:00 -0600
From: "Michael Beck" <michaelr.beck at cox.net>
Subject: RE: Vittles Vault Size

Hello A.J., here's my 2 cents. I use Vittles Vaults to store my grain.
They are
very convenient for storage both because they are air tight and because
certain
models are stackable. I have a 40 pounder stackable that was the largest I
could buy locally at the time. It holds a bit over 45 lbs of grain, so if
you
end up getting stackable bins choose the 60 pound containers. I would guess
the 50 pound regular vault would have a proportional amount of overhead.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 09:43:16 -0600 (CST)
From: slaycock at discoverynet.com
Subject:

"Greg Brewer <gbrewer1 at gmail.com>
Subject: Diatomaceous Earth

Any thoughts about using diatomaceous earth for controlling spider
mites on hops?"

DE is what my mother has used exclusively on her garden for the past 40
years or so.
She sprinkles it on early in the morning while things are still wet with
dew & reapplies after a hard enough rain to wash it off the plants.
She has excellent insect control with this method and a healthy feed out
of the garden as a result of this non-poison approach. Her broccoli,
brusselsprouts, caulflower, potato's are all virtually bug free.

She tells me that the egg laying moths will just hover above the plants
checking them out, but never landing.

I'd expect spider mites would suffer the same fate. I've used preditory
aphids in the past to attempt to control the spider mites with no success.
The DE will also kill beneficial insects on your hop bines...just so ya know.

Make sure your using "food grade" DE and like said here earlier, make sure
you dont breathe the dust while your applying the DE to your plants as it
will damage your lungs.

DE also has many trace minerals and loads of silica to enrich your garden
soil and produce a healthier plant/fruit.

Steve in KC
Highwater Brewhaus

- --
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 10:36:29 -0600 (CST)
From: slaycock at discoverynet.com
Subject: Diatomacious Earth for spider mite control

"Greg Brewer <gbrewer1 at gmail.com>
Subject: Diatomaceous Earth

Any thoughts about using diatomaceous earth for controlling spider
mites on hops?"


Greg,
DE is what my mother has used exclusively on her garden for the past 40
years or so.
She has excellent insect control with this method and a healthy feed out
of the garden as a result of this non-poison approach (i think the modern
day p.c. term is organic gardening`). Her broccoli, brussel sprouts,
cauliflower, potato's are all virtually bug free.

She tells me that the egg laying moths will just hover above the plants
checking them out, but never landing.

I read that it controls "mites" and "spiders",I'd expect spider mites
would suffer the same fate. I've used predatory aphids in the past to
attempt to control spider mites with no success.
The DE will also kill beneficial insects on your hop bines...just so ya
know. It wont harm earth worms, it will kill honey bees & lady bugs...so
keep it off flowers!

Make sure your using "food grade" DE and like said here earlier, make sure
you dont breathe the dust while your applying the DE to your plants as it
will damage your lungs.

DE also has many trace minerals and loads of silica to enrich your garden
soil and produce a healthier plant/fruit for you to consume.

Simply do an internet search on DE and plan on spending a week reading on
all the uses,and mind blowing results folks get from it...enjoy!

Steve in KC
Highwater Brewhaus

- --
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 17:42:02 -0600
From: Stephen Jorgensen <stephen at ultraemail.net>
Subject: RE: Leftovers beer

I make an Anything Lying Around brew once or twice a year, incorporating
several sources of fermentables. In addition to spare small quantities
of specialty malts I also have used many other leftovers such as: cooked
breakfast cereals, rice from Chinese take-out, cooked Quinoa, that
lonely potato in the back of the crisper drawer, stale dried fruits, the
last inch of crystallized honey in the Bear, failed attempts at rustic
home-baked bread (yeast + flour + water + salt recipes only. No oils or
fats), the acorn squash I intended to roast for Thanksgiving dinner but
forgot, essentially everything in the kitchen which is likely to contain
lots of starch or sugar and very little else.

I have not yet had one I would consider undrinkable and often things
turn out quite good. I follow a few general rules: No added fats of
any kind are allowed (oatmeal left in the pan, GO. oatmeal left in a
bowl with cream or butter, NO GO.) And starchy adjuncts are kept to a
maximum of around 15% of the mash by dry weight. In the case of cooked
starches or raw fruits/vegetables I guesstimate that there is a rough
equivalency to malt by volume.

In the end I always get beer. The use of several kinds of hops and
specialty grains makes for good fun trying to pick out distinct flavors
from each ingredient. Occasionally I discover a subtle note from the
adjuncts I really enjoy. Dried figs complimented a porter-esque effort
nicely. Basmati rice added a pleasant aroma to a pale-aley brew.

Anyway, go for it! There's not much to lose. Take notes and let us know
how it turns out.


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5498, 02/08/09
*************************************
-------

Friday, February 6, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5497 (February 06, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5497 Fri 06 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Thermometer calibration (Jason Gazeley)
Vittles Vault Size ("A. J. deLange")
Leftovers beer ("Jerry \"Beaver\" Pelt")
Diatomaceous Earth (Greg Brewer)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 21:28:52 -0700
From: Jason Gazeley <jason.gazeley at gmail.com>
Subject: Thermometer calibration

How should I calibrate my mash thermometers. I use two. One in the tun and
one on the return of my HERMS. I was using a 12" glass thermometer that
I got from MoreBeer! to calibrate all of my thermometers until I checked it
last week and discovered it was right on in ice water but 8 deg f low
at boiling.
I scaled this error to my 150f mash temp and realized I was mashing at 156f.
No wonder my beers always finish high. So what methods and devices does
the rest of the HBD community use?

Cheers,

Jason


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 05:05:06 +0000
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mac.com>
Subject: Vittles Vault Size

Vittles Vaults come in several sizes. I'm across the pond right now so
I can't go look at the things but according to the website of a
retailer I looked at it's the second largest which they call "50
pounds" (the largest is 80) which holds 55 pounds of malt with
appreciable (perhaps 1/3) head room. From this we conclude that malt
is denser than dog food and that the 80 pounder would probably hold 2
sacks of malt.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 07:13:05 -0800 (PST)
From: "Jerry \"Beaver\" Pelt" <beaverplt at yahoo.com>
Subject: Leftovers beer

I'm sure we've all been there. Over the course of few
batches, we've collected a few surplus ingredients.
Maybe a couple pounds of 3 or four different grains.
A couple different types of hops in the fridge. Has anyone
ever cleaned out their beer cupboard by just using all your
leftovers to make a brew? If so, what was the result? I'm in that
situation where I have a little of a lot of ingredients.
This seems like a fun thing to try.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 17:26:15 -0600
From: Greg Brewer <gbrewer1 at gmail.com>
Subject: Diatomaceous Earth

Any thoughts about using diatomaceous earth for controlling spider
mites on hops? Since they don't fly, I was thinking I could apply DE
to the ground surrounding my hops, and maybe it would be an effective
control. Mites have absolutely destroyed my harvests for the past few
years, and I have yet to find anything that will control them
effectively. Once established, it is too late, they hide in their
webbing on the underside of the leaves, and only a few need to survive
to re-establish themselves. I will probably try DE in any case, but
wondered if anyone else has had success.

Cheers,

Greg in Chicago


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5497, 02/06/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5496 (February 05, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5496 Thu 05 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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***************************************************************


Contents:
RE: Walk In Cooler advice (bill keiser)
Vittles Vaults (Paul Hethmon)


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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 09:32:20 -0500
From: bill keiser <bk2 at sharpstick.org>
Subject: RE: Walk In Cooler advice

greenhouse thermostats should be a simple way to control an AC unit:
http://littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml
if you are cooling in a range that's above freezing and use a
circulation fan, there shouldn't be an icing problem.
i've thought about using either a small AC unit or a small refrigerator
with the door removed and fastened to the cooling chamber at the doorway.
bill keiser

> It's primarily aimed at farmers who need to quickly chill harvested produce
> and flowers to extend shelf life, but seems like it would work great for a
> brewing application:
>
> http://www.storeitcold.com/index.php
>
> They have some good advice on the walk-in room itself, as well as advice on
> which air conditioner brand to buy (they say LG, because it doesn't shut
> down when the outside air temp gets low, and doesn't need to be reset in the
> morning). It's a bit spendy, but worth it, I think.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 16:48:46 -0500
From: Paul Hethmon <phethmon at hethmon.com>
Subject: Vittles Vaults

> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
> For storage of grain you just can't (IMO) beat Vittles Vaults (Gamma
> Plastics). These are small drums that nicely hold a 55 Lb sack of malt
> and seal it in with an O-ring equipped screw-in lid. Moisture and
> insects are neatly excluded. I've mashed grain I had stored in one for
> 5 years. I sure determined rats would be able to chew through but,
> thank the powers above, I don't have those in my basement.
>
A.J. -- What size are you using for 55lbs? Is that their 13 gallon size?

thanks,

Paul


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5496, 02/05/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5495 (February 04, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5495 Wed 04 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

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Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
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DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: Walk In Cooler (Dick Adams)
Walkins/Bugs ("A. J. deLange")
RE: Walk In Cooler advice ("Mike Sharp")
Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Bug control ("David Houseman")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 00:14:30 -0500 (EST)
From: rdadams at panix.com (Dick Adams)
Subject: Re: Walk In Cooler

"Susan Ruud" <susan.ruud at ndsu.edu> wrote:

> Hi, I am sure there are a ton of engineer/do it yourselfers
> out there and I could really use advice. My husband promised
> a walk in cooler and has been watching auctions, etc. for one
> at a reasonable price and has now decided it will be more
> economical to just buy the cooling system and build his own.
> If anyone has plans for building a cooler, good suggestions on
> things to do/not do, best location for parts, etc. I would
> really appreciate the help.

My powers of persuasion with my childbride can always use
new ideas. So I'd really like to know how you pulled off
this promise.

My experience with second-hand refrigerators and freezers
has led me to the conclusion that even "free" can be too much.
So DIY is a good idea.

Building it will not be complex or expensive. Getting the
correct size cooling system at a good price will be the
most difficult part.

Here are some things I found on a simple search:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Walk-in_Cooler
http://www.brewrats.org/walkin.cfm
http://www.cps.gov.on.ca/english/fv6000/fv6319.htm

Dick
- --
Richard D. Adams, CPA (retired)
Moderator: misc.taxes.moderated


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 05:24:29 +0000
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mac.com>
Subject: Walkins/Bugs

The most expensive part of a walk-in is the refrigeration "split
pack" (compressor unit outside, fan coil unit inside). The walls are
just foam between galvanized sheets of steel or aluminum. They are
designed to fit together as modular pieces and it is thus possible to
configure one in all sorts of sizes and shapes. As restaurants and
bars go out of business all the time (and right now the rates must be
unusually high, used walk-ins should be readily available. If you live
in or near a metropolitan area there is probably a dealer in used
restaurant equipment. Such a dealer should have an ample selection of
used walk in bits. I would seriously consider getting a new split pack
but there are no moving parts to wear in the wall/floor/ceiling panels
and used they shouldn't be too expensive. New systems aren't that out
of sight either. Check Rapids Wholesale.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

For storage of grain you just can't (IMO) beat Vittles Vaults (Gamma
Plastics). These are small drums that nicely hold a 55 Lb sack of malt
and seal it in with an O-ring equipped screw-in lid. Moisture and
insects are neatly excluded. I've mashed grain I had stored in one for
5 years. I sure determined rats would be able to chew through but,
thank the powers above, I don't have those in my basement.

A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 23:35:01 -0800
From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Walk In Cooler advice

Susan Ruud asks about Walk In Cooler advice

"If anyone has plans for building a cooler, good suggestions on things to
do/not do, best location for parts, etc. I would really appreciate the
help."

Building the box is pretty easy; coming up with a reliable means of chilling
is a bit harder. The problem is many air conditioning units will ice up if
you try to cool the room too cold. I recently ran across this very clever
device that will allow you to use a conventional air conditioner as the
chilling unit for a walk-in cooler without the problem of icing up.

The way it works is that it heats up the thermostat sensor on the air
conditioner, fooling it into running until the coolbot setpoint is reached.
Then it's tiny heater shuts off, and the air conditioner thermostat senses
the cold temperature, and shuts off. The coolbot also senses the when the
A/C is icing up, and shuts off as well. The essential part is that you'll
get as much cooling capacity as you can from your air conditioner, and it
will shut off when it can't do any more (rather than continue to run if you
simply bypassed the thermostat).

It's primarily aimed at farmers who need to quickly chill harvested produce
and flowers to extend shelf life, but seems like it would work great for a
brewing application:

http://www.storeitcold.com/index.php

They have some good advice on the walk-in room itself, as well as advice on
which air conditioner brand to buy (they say LG, because it doesn't shut
down when the outside air temp gets low, and doesn't need to be reset in the
morning). It's a bit spendy, but worth it, I think.

Regards,
Mike Sharp

Kent, WA
[1891.3, 294deg] AR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 07:21:59 -0500
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Bug control

To those working with DE: Take care with this material. Read the health
warnings. This is not to be breathed. One should wear a good quality
mask (not a cheap painters mask) when working with DE. The sharp edges
damage lungs similar to asbestos. It's serious stuff.

BTW I tried to make a home version of a DE filter with limited success. I
need to spend more time on the design to get the right surface area to DE
volume so that it will filter in a reasonable time. Why use DE? Well it
is literally as cheap as dirt. If I get back to this project, I'll provide
an update.

Dave Houseman

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5495, 02/04/09
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5494 (February 03, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5494 Tue 03 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Walk In Cooler ("Susan Ruud")
Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Bug control ("Craig S. Cottingham")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 08:58:42 -0600
From: "Susan Ruud" <susan.ruud at ndsu.edu>
Subject: Walk In Cooler

Hi, I am sure there are a ton of engineer/do it yourselfers out there and I
could really use advice. My husband promised a walk in cooler and has been
watching auctions, etc. for one at a reasonable price and has now decided it
will be more economical to just buy the cooling system and build his own.
If anyone has plans for building a cooler, good suggestions on things to
do/not do, best location for parts, etc. I would really appreciate the
help.

Thanks,
Susan Ruud


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:33:34 -0600
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Bug control

On Feb 2, 2009, at 11:36, slaycock at discoverynet.com wrote:

> All that said, can I safely add [Diatomaceous Earth] to my barley
> grain and even Bulk DME
> stock for bug control WITHOUT harming the health of my yeast during
> fermentation?

Setting aside for the moment that there are probably more effective
ways to control infestation in your malt products (see below), I
suspect that diatomaceous earth will have little effect on the
*health* of your yeast. I couldn't find any details on the average
particle size in DE, but since they're the silica exoskeletons of a
variety of algae, I would guess that they're in the same ballpark as
yeast cells. Between that and the fact that both DE and yeast are in
relatively low concentration in your beer, I don't think you'll have
to worry about DE particles tearing up your yeast cells.

That being said....

One of DE's properties is that it absorbs lipids, which makes it
effective both as an ingredient in facial masks and insecticides. I
would not be surprised if DE binds to the lipids in yeast cell walls,
causing them to flocculate out in a manner similar to bentonite. In
other words, your yeast may remain healthy, but they're all sitting
on the bottom of the fermenter where they can't do as much good.

If your primary concern is keeping insect infestation at bay, few
things work as well as carbon dioxide. Put a small chunk of dry ice
in the bottom of a reasonably gastight container (a plastic bucket
should be fine; a brown paper grocery sack not so much) and pour your
malt or DME on top. The CO2 will displace the oxygen, leaving an
environment that's inhospitable to insects.

- --
Craig S. Cottingham
BJCP Certified judge from Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1deg] Apparent
Rennerian)
craig.cottingham at gmail.com
+1 (913) 826-6896 or Skype me at CraigCottingham

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5494, 02/03/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, February 2, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5493 (February 02, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5493 Mon 02 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
Re: Aluminum kettle (John & Joy Vaughn)
Osiris HBC Results posted (Dion Hollenbeck)
Diatomacious Earth for Bug control (slaycock)
How Much Alkalinity ("A. J. deLange")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 22:29:22 -0900
From: John & Joy Vaughn <hogbrew at mtaonline.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum kettle

Fred,

As long as he has removed all of the oil from the surface of the kettle,
it will work great as a boil kettle.

John Vaughn
Wasilla. Alaska

> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 18:55:12 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Fred Scheer <fredscheer07 at comcast.net>
> Subject: Aluminum kettle
>
> HI:
>
> A friend of mine got some time ago one of
> this Turkey Fryers, 30 qt, Aluminum.
> Now, he made fish fry in there three times.
> He cleaned it very well, I can't see any
> spots in the kettle.
> I have no experience in homebrewing in Aluminum
> kettles. Any advise is appreciated?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Fred
>
>
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 09:30:16 -0700
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: Osiris HBC Results posted

For the complete results to the Osiris Homebrew Competition sponsored
by SKA Brewing in Durango, CO., please go to:

http://hstrial-cmorrow8.homestead.com/

and click on the "Awards" link.

Congratulations to Chris Vest who won BOS and will have his beer
brewed and entered by SKA in the GABF Pro/AM Competition this year.

dion

- --
Dion Hollenbeck
Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Toys: 98 4Runner, 86 4x4 PU

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 11:36:31 -0600 (CST)
From: slaycock at discoverynet.com
Subject: Diatomacious Earth for Bug control

Greetings,
I have been researching the uses of Diatomacious Earth lately for personal
health benefits.
Already knowing that it is amazing as a natural "food grade" bug killer.
(I hesitate calling it an insecticide, because it isn't a poison but the
microscopic diatoms sharp edges simply cuts the insects/parasites as they
land/walk on the DE or ingest it and they dehydrate or "bleed out" if you
will, and die. It's much like what would happen if we walked & rolled
around on sharp knife blades...not a pleasant thought!)

All that said, can I safely add this to my barley grain and even Bulk DME
stock for bug control WITHOUT harming the health of my yeast during
fermentation?

Keep in mind that DE used for Pool filtering IS NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION!!
If you use DE, it MUST BE MARKED "Food Grade or Codex Food Grade"

Thanks for any feedback!
Steve in KC
Highwater Brewhaus


- --
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 18:59:59 +0000
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mac.com>
Subject: How Much Alkalinity

Kai and I have been discussing this off line. In summary for those who
may be interested:

It would be well to start with the definition of alkalinity: the
amount of acid required to move the pH of a water sample from whatever
it is to pH 4.3 (which is a somewhat arbitrary, in the sense that 4.2
or 4.4 would serve just as well, number but the one usually accepted
in brewing).

If one puts 100 mg (1 mMol) of chalk in a beaker and adds water to
make up a to a little less than a liter and then begins to add a
strong acid (i.e. one whose highest pK is at least 2 units less than
4.3) until pH 4.3 is reached he will have to add 2.05 mEq of acid.
The first mEq goes to convert the carbonate to bicarbonate: CO3-- + H
+ --> HCO3- and the second to convert all the bicarbonate to
carbonic (actually at pH 4.3 not quite all but certainly most will
convert): HCO3- + H+ --> H2CO3. The .05 is needed just to establish
the H+ ion concentration of 10^(-4.3) mol/L required for a pH of 4.3
so that even completely deionized water has an alkalinity of .05 mEq/
L or 2.5 ppm as CaCO3 when 4.3 is the defining pH. As 2.05 mEq of acid
total have been used in reaching pH 4.3 the alkalinity of this sample
is 2.05 mEq/L or 102.5 ppm as CaCO3 (multtiply by 50).

If one adds the acid incrementally the pH will decrease from a value
around 10 to 4.3 as the acid is added. Let r1 = 10^(pH-6.38) be the
ratio of bicarbonate to carbonic and r2 = 10^(pH - 10.38) be the ratio
of carbonate to bicarbonate ion concentration. Then f1 = 1/(1 + r1 +
r1*r2) is the fraction of total carb species which are carbonic, f2 =
r1*f1 is the fraction which is bicarbonate and f3 = r2*f2 = r1*r2*f1
is the fraction which is carbonate. The amount of acid consumed in
going to a particular pH from solid calcium carbonate is the increase
in carbonic plus the decrease in carbonate. If starting with chalk
(f1 = 0, f3 =1.0 and 100 mg = 1 mMol) so the amount of acid required
is (1)*(f1 + 1 - f3). Thus at pH 4.3 where f1 is approximately 1 and
f3 approximately 0 the acid required is approximately 2 mEq as above.
In this simple calculation we are ignoring the 0.05mEq for the pH
value itself. At pH 8.3, by contrast, f1 and f3 are each about 1% and
f2 about 98% so the acid required is approximately (1)(.01 + .99) or
about 1 mEq/L. To take this sample the rest of the way to pH 4.3 would
thus require another mEq (plus the .05) and the alkalinity of this
sample, prepared by putting 100 mg of CaCO3 into a bit less than 1L of
water, adding acid to pH 8.3 and adding water to make up to exactly 1L
would be 1.05 mEq or 52.5 ppm as CaCO3. If I added enough acid (1.19
mEq) to get the sample to pH 7 where 19% of CO3-- has converted to
carbonic and 81 to bicarbonate and you sent the sample off to a lab
they would come back with a report of about 2.05 - 1.19 = 0.86 mEq/L
or 43 ppm as CaCO3. To reach pH 6 would require 1.71 mEq of acid and
the alkalinity would then be about 0.34 mEq/L or 17 ppm as CaCO3. Thus
the alkalinity is about half the number of mg/L CaCO3 added at pH 8.3
and drops rapidly as the pH of the prepared sample is made lower.

Now things are different if a weak (at least one pK close to the
working values of pH of interest) acid, in particular carbonic, is
used to supply the protons. The reaction is

CO3-- + H2CO3 --> 2HCO3-

Here a carbonic molecule has given up a proton becoming a bicarbonate
ion. The proton is immediately taken up by a carbonate ion which
becomes a bicarbonate ion. At pH 8.3 again 98% of the added carbonate
has been converted to bicarbonate but now for each bicarbonate from
the added chalk there is a second from the acid which supplied the
proton to convert it. It should be clear that the alkalinity will, in
this case, be double what it was when strong acid was used and it is
at about 101.9. But at lower pH as more protons are required more
carbon dioxide must dissolve to supply them and this increases the
alkalinity above what it would be were strong acid (hydrochloric,
sulfuric) used. At pH 6 1.71 mEq of protons are still needed but as
only 29% of carbonic converts to bicarbonate one requires 5.82 mMol of
carbon dioxide tot be dissolved. As one bicarbonate is produced for
each proton there will thus be 1.71 mMol of bicarbonate from carbonic.
Of the 1 mMol of added carbonate 29% is converted to bicarbonate as
well and there is thus a total of 2.00 mMol of bicarb which will
require 2 mEq of acid to convert totally to carbonic (near pH 4.3) and
the alkalinity of this water is thus 2 mEq/L or about 100 ppm as
CaCO3. Thus if the CaCO3 is dissolved with carbonic acid, which is
nature's way (surface water, limestone caves etc.) The alkalinity will
be about 1 part per million "as CaCO3" for each mg/L CaCO3 dissolved
and it is relatively insensitive to pH as long as you stay above pH 6
(at pH 5 the alkalinity drops to 0.82ppm/mg/L and it takes 1.4
atmospheres of CO2 to get enough to dissolve). That's why we use "as
CaCO3 units (though I really prefer mVal/mEq because they don't lead
to the kind of confusion we often see over this very point).

The bottom line here is that if you are doing calculations concerning
calcium carbonate additions to brewing water you MUST consider the pH
of the water you are formulating and the means that will be used to
dissolve the calcium carbonate. Any spreadsheet, brewing software,
etc. that does not ask about both of these things has the potential to
lead you astray.

All the calculations alluded to above were done with the spreadsheet I
developed for a class last fall which is available at
http://www.wetnewf.org/Brewing_articles/BURP_OCT08
and which, as a consequence of my correspondence with Kai I have
updated to fix a couple of minor things, added fields which show
saturation WRT carbon dioxide and calcium carbonate (this can be an
issue - water in equilibrium with air and calcite can only dissolve 55
mg/L) and appreciably augmented the instructions. It is probably
pretty intimidating but it does cover most aspects of brewing water
chemistry.

A.J.


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5493, 02/02/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5492 (February 01, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5492 Sun 01 February 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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***************************************************************


Contents:
sugar ("Bill & Sara Frazier")
Aluminum kettle (Fred Scheer)
How much increase in alkalinity as CaCO3 should 1ppm CaCO3 cause ? (Kai Troester)
Sugars ("A. J. deLange")
11th Annual UKG Drunk Monk Challenge (John Kleczewski)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 00:14:19 -0600
From: "Bill & Sara Frazier" <bsfrazier at att.net>
Subject: sugar

A desire for sugar syrups for use in beer has been mentioned the last few
days. I noticed on the More Beer and Northern Brewer web sites Belgian
sugar syrups for sale...evidently new products for the home brewer.
However, the syrups are currently out-of-stock. These may be interesting to
use instead of plain table sugar.

Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 18:55:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Fred Scheer <fredscheer07 at comcast.net>
Subject: Aluminum kettle

HI:

A friend of mine got some time ago one of
this Turkey Fryers, 30 qt, Aluminum.
Now, he made fish fry in there three times.
He cleaned it very well, I can't see any
spots in the kettle.
I have no experience in homebrewing in Aluminum
kettles. Any advise is appreciated?

Cheers,

Fred


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 18:44:31 -0500
From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com>
Subject: How much increase in alkalinity as CaCO3 should 1ppm CaCO3 cause ?

A few weeks back I decided to write another brewing water calculation
spread sheet. The formulas were mostly taken from the literature and
existing spread sheets. Then I decided to add a cation (positively
charged ions) to anion (negatively charged ions) balance check just to
see if the water profile that I created made sense. This is when I
noticed an imbalance when creating brewing water from scratch by using
distilled water and salts. The resulting water should not show an
imbalance and every cation should have matching anion. But it was
showing an imbalance when chalk was used. So I gave the fomulas used
for chalk a closer look.

And found that 1 mol (a unit that is proportional to the amount of
molecules/ions of a particular substance) of CaCO3 was assumed to add
one mol of bicarbonate to the water. And that in most spreadsheets and
calculators the bicarbonate contribution was later used to calculate
the alkalinity as CaCO3. But that didn't seem right. If CaCO3 adds
only one bicarbonate, it also needs to add one hydroxyl ion (OH-):

(1) CaCO3 + H20 -> Ca2+ + HCO3- + OH-

Since this would liberate hydroxyl the pH of the water would need to
rise. If that is not happening then chalk can also be dissolved in the
presence of CO2

(2) CaCO3 + H2O + CO2 -> Ca2+ + HCO3- + HCO3-

In this case each mol of chalk would add 2 moles of bicarbonate. Yet
another reaction is possible in the presence of acid and free protons

(3) CaCO3 + H+ -> Ca2+ + HCO-

(4) HCO- + H+ -> H2O + CO2

If neither of these reactions hapen the chalk won't dissolve. And that
is clearly happening in brewing: If you add chalk to the brewing water
it just turns the water cloudy and it will eventually settle.

But does it really matter if the chalk dissolves or not? No. Because
the bigger picture is that we added the chalk to give the water+chalk
mixture more "alkalinity" I.e. acid buffering capacity. That acid
buffering capacity is needed to reach a targeted mash pH once the
malt, and with it acid buffers, has been added. At that point
reactions (3) and (4) can take place. Whichever reaction is happening
(1)..(4), chalk can neutralize 2 equivalents of acid and for all
intents and purposes 1 ppm of chalk should therefore raise the
alkalinity by 1 ppm as CaCO3.

But that is not what most water treatment spreadsheets assume. They
assume that 1 mmol/l CaCO3 adds 1 mmol/l HCO3- (bicarbonate) which
drops one negative charge on the floor and caused the imbalance that I
noticed. And then they go ahead and convert the ppm HCO3- to
alkalinity as ppm CaCO3 by multiplying with the factor 50/60. In the
end the addition of 1 ppm CaCO3 raises the alkalinity by only 0.5 ppm
as CaCO3. This certainly seems wrong and I thought I had it all
figured out until I decided to confirm this theory with an experiment.

The experiment is seemingly simple. Make small mashes with 3 different
waters that are supposed to have the same residual alkalinity and test
their pH. The first water (A) would be reverse osmosis water and serve
as the control. The second water (B) would be reverse osmosis water
with chalk and calcium chloride added such that the added residual
alkalinity is 0 if the chalk contributes 2 alkalinity equivalents. The
3rd water (C) has chalk and calcium chloride added such that the added
residual alkalinity is 0 if chalk contributes only one alkalinity
equivalent. Whichever water that causes a mash pH to match the RO
water mash pH the closest would have used the correct formula for
alkalinity contributions by chalk. Here is a summary of the waters used:

* water A: reverse osmosis tap water
* water B: RO water + 80 ppm CaCO3 + 290 ppm CaCl2*2H2O; this
increases the Ca2+ content by ~110 ppm
o if 1ppm CaCO3 adds 1 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 then the
water's residual alkalinity (RA) increases by 0.0 over the RO water's RA
o if 1 ppm CaCO3 adds 0.5 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 then the
water's RA decreases by 2.2 dH (German Hardness) or 40 ppm as CaCO3
* water C: RO water + 150 ppm CaCO3 + 150 ppm CaCl2*2H2O; this
increases the Ca2+ content by ~110 ppm
o if 1ppm CaCO3 adds 1 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 then the
water's residual alkalinity (RA) decreases by ~4.4 dH or 80 ppm as CaCO3
o if 1 ppm CaCO3 adds 0.5 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 then the
water's RA remains unchanged compared to the RO water

200ml of each water were taken and heated to ~64C in the microwave.
Then 50g of crushed pilsner malt were added to each water sample and
stirred in. The mashes were occasionally stirred and a 15ml sample was
taken from each mash after 5 min and cooled to 22C when it was
measured with a pH meter. The results were surprising:

* mash A : pH = 5.76
* mash B : pH = 5.69
* mash C : pH = 5.77

According to these results the chalk added only 0.5 ppm alkalinity as
CaCO3. And the pH shift for mash B is even in the range that would
have been expected from the 2.2 dH RA drop. According to Kolbach the
shift is 0.03 pH units for each dH which would be 0.066 and the
results show ~0.07.

I couldn't believe it and started to ponder why that would be the
case. Why is the added CaCO3 only neutralizing 1 equivalent of acid
and not 2? Maybe it has something to do with the chalk not being
dissolved.

So I conducted another similar experiment. This time between a
control, water with suspended chalk and water with dissolved chalk.
The chalk would be dissolved with CO2 which is brought into solution
through shaking. Here is what I did. I added 0.24 g chalk and 0.88g
calcium chloride to 1.5 l of reverse osmosis water. This is twice the
salts added to water B in the previous experiment because I wanted to
pronounce the effect of the residual alkalinity difference. I then
shook this water and the added salts in a 2l soda bottle until the
calcium chloride was dissolved. Immediately after shaking, without
giving the chalk a chance to settle, I poured off 200ml for sample B.
I then removed another 300ml in order to increase the head space. This
headspace was then filled with CO2 and the bottle closed. When I
started shaking the bottle, it immediately contracted which was a sign
of the CO2 going into solution. After some shaking I let the bottle
sit until the water became crystal clear again. This was not the
result of the chalk settling but it being dissolved in the water. I
then took 200ml of that water for samle C:

* water A: reverse osmosis
* water B: RO + 160 ppm CaCO3 + 580 ppm CaCl2*2H2O
o RA = -4.4 dH or 80 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 if chalk adds
1 alkalinity equivalent
o RA = 0 dH or 0 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 if chalk adds 2
alkalinity equivalents
* water C: water B + CO2
o RA = -4.4 dH or 80 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 if chalk adds
1 alkalinity equivalent
o RA = 0 dH or 0 ppm alkalinity as CaCO3 if chalk adds 2
alkalinity equivalents

I then heated both samples to 68C, added 50g crushed pilsner malt to
each and rested (with occasional stirring) them for 10 min. After that
I took 15 ml samples and cooled them to 20-21C:

* mash A : pH = 5.67
* mash B : pH = 5.47
* mash C : pH = 5.66

So it appears that dissolving the chalk in the mash water changes its
alkalinity potential. undissolved chalk has less alkalinity potential
than dissolved chalk since mash B showed a much lower mash pH which
could only have been the result of a lower RA than the 2 other mashes.

But why is this? Does not all the chalk dissolve in the mash as
commonly assumed? And if yes why is that? And would it always be 50%?
Shouldn't there be enough acid for this to happen via reactions (3)
and (4)?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 09:37:56 +0000
From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mac.com>
Subject: Sugars

Despite having retired I find myself sitting on the patio of a hotel
in Mauritius which is a big cane sugar producer and when the waiter
put the sugar bowl with "Dry Demerrara Sugar" and "Raw Sugar" in front
of me I was reminded of the recent discussions. FWIW, from the
packets, "Demerara is a golden sugar with a large sparkling crystal, a
crunchy, sticky texture and a rich aroma due to the presence of the
cane molasses enrobing each crystal." and for the raw sugar "This
granulated raw sugar retains all the rich flavor and the natural
elements intrinsic to the sugar cane". They are both about the same
color but the Demerrara crystals are perhaps a little larger (1 x 0.5
x 0.5mm approx) and more regular (the raw stuff looks ground). They
taste about the same. As for their use in beer, the local brew
(Phoenix) certainly has a lot of it in it and is, IMO, pretty good
stuff.

A. J.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:05:49 -0600
From: John Kleczewski <john.kleczewski at gmail.com>
Subject: 11th Annual UKG Drunk Monk Challenge

The Urban Knaves of Grain announce that the Drunk Monk Challenge 2009
will soon be upon us! The competition is sanctioned by the American
Homebrewers Association, and is a qualifying event for MCAB and the
Midwest Homebrewer of the Year circuit.

The competition is scheduled for March 13 and 14, 2009, to be held at
Walter Payton's Roundhouse in Aurora, IL. As in previous years, the DMC
features the Menace of the Monastery, a special category consisting of
styles which are monastic in origin: Belgian Blonde, Dubbel, Tripel,
Pale, Strong Golden and Strong Dark Ales, as well as German Doppelbock.
Awards for all categories will be announced following the MOM and Best
Of Show judging. There will be 2 separate categories for BOS:
Beer and Mead/Cider. Rosette ribbons featuring our famous 'Drunk Monk'
will be awarded for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places for each category. Special
ribbons will be awarded for 2nd and 3rd BOS and MOM, and engraved plaques
will be the prizes for 1st BOS and MOM.

Of special note is that the winner of the Beer BOS will have the
opportunity to assist in the scaling up and brewing of their award-winning
recipe at Walter Payton's Roundhouse, of Aurora, IL. Please see rules
for details.

Drunk Monk Challenge entries are $7 for the first entry, and $5 each
additional entry. Menace of the Monastery entries are $5 each.

Entries will be accepted between February 28 and March 7.

There are several drop off locations in the Chicagoland area.
Entries can be shipped to:
The Drunk Monk Challenge,
c/o Walter Payton's Roundhouse - America's Brewing Company,
205 North Broadway, Aurora, IL 60505, ATTN: Mike Rybinski
NO DROP OFFS ALLOWED AT THIS LOCATION!

Full details, rules, entry forms, etc. can be found at the UKG website:

http://www.knaves.org/DMC/index.htm

Good luck and thanks!


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5492, 02/01/09
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