Friday, May 29, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5560 (May 29, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5560 Fri 29 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
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can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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***************************************************************


Contents:
RE: water addition help ("Mike Bennett")
ABC Brews Crews competition judges needed ("Spencer W. Thomas")
RE: Water Addition Help ("A.J deLange")
Fall brewing courses ("Lemcke Keith")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:44:54 -0700
From: "Mike Bennett" <mjb at efn.org>
Subject: RE: water addition help

The film was most likely gypsum. It has low solubilty and needs to be
sprinkled directly onto/into the mash for maximum effect.

As to the effect, taste it. That's where the rubber meets the road.

- --
Mike Bennett
Professional Brewer (retired)
St. Barts (Home)Brewing
mjbennett69<at>gmail.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 00:03:14 -0400
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <spencer at spencerwthomas.com>
Subject: ABC Brews Crews competition judges needed

The ABC BrewsCrews competition is coming up on June 6.

Again this year the BOS winner will have the chance to work with the
staff at Arbor Brewing Company to brew their award winning beer at the
pub in downtown Ann Arbor, Michigan and then served on tap at the pub.

We have put together an outstanding BOS panel of judges this year to
find that one beer that meets the criteria of Best of Show. Will it be
your beer that wins? Only those that enter will have a chance to find out.

Judges and stewards are still needed. Please register online at
http://brewscrews.aabg.org

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 12:20:15 -0400
From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net>
Subject: RE: Water Addition Help

Eric,

Your water report is missing a critical item: the alkalinity. We can
guess that it might be around 54 ppm as CaCO3 because that's what it
would take to electrically balance the other items. This is a fine
thing to do if we knew we had all the other ions and that the
measurements were exact but anyway we can get a rough idea as to what
happened on the basis of this rough estimate. [Later: looking at your
posted spreadsheet I see the alkalinity is listed as 46. So 54 wasn't
a terrible guess. Putting in 46 gives a better balanced profile than
many I've seen. Everything that follows is based on 46.]

So you added 11*1.2 grams of chalk to 11 gallons of water? That would
be 11*1.2/41.6 = 317 mg/L most of which (about 306 mg/L) wouldn't
dissolve. Most of the "film" you saw was probably this stuff. 6.6
grams of gypsum in 41.6 L is 158 mg/L and that's not really that much
compared to what you would find in some waters. That would dissolve.
The bicarbonate would amount to 8 mg/L and that's not too much of a
problem and would be offset to some extent by the chloride.
Altogether, assuming only 11 mg/K of the chalk dissolved and the rest
got left behind in the liquor tank your residual alkalinity would only
be 11 ppm as CaCO3 which isn't bad. However, it is likely that some
suspended chalk powder did transfer to the mash tun where it would
consume mash acids thus effectively raising residual alkalinity. This
may have resulted in lower conversion than desired. How did the OG
look? Most important: How does the beer taste?


You asked what should be added to your water realize the profile you
specified in the spreadsheet. That profile cannot be realized because
it is overbalanced to the cation side. Understanding that you want to
emphasize hops I balanced the profile by reducing sodium and
increasing sulfate. You had

Ca: 100 Mg: 20 Alk: 120 Na: 65 Cl: 40 SO4: 50

I rebalanced to

Ca: 100 Mg: 20 Alk: 120 Na: 12 Cl: 40 SO4: 175

Question: The target has a higher alkalinity (120) and higher residual
alkalinity (37) than the source (respectively 46 and 27). Why would
you want to do this? Recognizing that answers such as "Because it
emulates the water of Kettlesing on Nid" are perfectly valid ones we
put that question aside and assuming that you want the treated water
to be at the same pH as the starting water find that you would, for 11
gallons, add:

1.280 grams calcium chloride dihydrate,
0.002 grams sodium chloride (skip this one)
7.660 grams gypsum,
5.702 grams of epsom salts
3.0532 grams of of chalk.

These additions result in hitting all target concentrations to 1.6% or
better (theoretically - you probably can't weigh to the milligram and
even if you could the salts are 100% pure and then the source water
data isn't perfectly balanced). The rms error is 0.9%

To get the chalk to dissolve you will have to bubble carbon dioxide
through the solution until the target pH is reached. Note that you
wouldn't have to do this if you did not ask for the alkalinity
increase or if we allowed the sodium to go up (we'd get the alkalinity
increase from sodium bicarbonate). Assuming you do not have a pH meter
just bubble (use a stone and stir - it may take quite a while) the CO2
until the solution is clear and then for a while longer. The result
will be at a lower pH but the alkalinity, and thus residual
alkalinity, will be the same. The mix will lose CO2 over time, the pH
will rise and chalk may precipitate. It also may precipitate when you
heat this water in the HLT.

If you really don't like the idea of using CO2 a solution is possible
with lactic acid but it would take quite a bit (4.4 mL of 88% acid
which is probably going to be quite noticeable with respect to taste)
and the peak error is 15.3% with the rms error 8.4%. The CO2 solution
(which imitates nature) is a much better one.

Cheers, A.J.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 15:51:17 -0400
From: "Lemcke Keith" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com>
Subject: Fall brewing courses

This is the time of year that we start getting a lot of registrations
for our Fall courses, and with so many people considering the jump into
professional brewing, our course session starting in September will
probably sell out in the coming weeks. If you have been considering
signing up for any of our Siebel Institute or World Brewing Academy
courses and you have any questions about preparing for courses or
choosing the right course to meet your needs, please contact me as soon
as possible. Many of our courses require preparatory study, and the
sooner you start preparing for the courses the more you will be able to
derive from them. Please feel free to contact me about any aspect of
brewing training or about building a career in brewing. We are here to
help.

Keith Lemcke
Vice-President
Siebel Institute of Technology
World Brewing Academy

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDo-K1tVA-g>

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5560, 05/29/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5559 (May 28, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5559 Thu 28 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
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***************************************************************


Contents:
water addition help (Eric Beaupre)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
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As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 23:57:13 -0400
From: Eric Beaupre <eric.beaupre at gmail.com>
Subject: water addition help

So I recently moved from central illinois where the water was quite
hard to Pennsylvania where the water's quite soft. I thought I'd
celebrate by brewing a light colored hoppy beer as I hadn't been able
to brew a decent one with my previous water. i pulled a report from
the water company and thought I'd try "adjusting" the water. My
report is as follows:

[ppm]
calcium 21
chloride 25
magnesium 6.6
pH 8.39
Sodium 12
Sulfate 18

I knew I wanted more sulfate for some hop bitterness, more sodium for
flavor, and more calcium since it's supposed to do a body good.

I found various water spreadsheets and settled on Palmer's. Sorry AJ,
yours was a bit over my head for a first go. I ran some numbers in
his sheet and came up with the following additions:

[g]
CaCO3 1.2
Gypsum .6
CaCl2 .35
Baking Soda .3

Here's where I might have made a terrible error, I _assumed_ this was
per gallon of water in the HLT. So, I multiplied all of those by 11
and added it to my 11 gallons of 170 degree water. I mashed my grain
and noticed the HLT was coated in a white film, and film is most
likely an understatement. I knew at that point I was most likely in
trouble but carried on anyhow.

The beer's been in primary for two weeks. When I racked to primary I
noticed an inch or two of "stuff" immediately settled to the bottom of
the carboy. I had a nice robust rolling ferment though. It's now
time to transfer it to secondary. I'm wondering at this point if I
did in fact supersaturate the water with minerals (nearly a given) and
if so what effect it will have on the beer. I'm also wondering if I
should "waste" the hops I had saved for dry hopping on this brew or
just use them in the next brew. So, any guesses on what this thing
will taste like? Any steps I can take at this point to improve the
beer?

I've hosted the spread sheet at scribd if anyone would like to take a
look at it.
http://www.scribd.com/share/upload/12269292/r48mewck64eg3counza
The target mineral levels are listed in there, can someone recommend
what they would have added to the mash water to achieve this?

Thanks
Eric


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5559, 05/28/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5558 (May 27, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5558 Wed 27 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Win Siebel Institute Advanced Homebrewing Course from www.MoreBeer.com ("Lemcke Keith")
Jellotin and Carbonation ("Keith Christian")
I did it ! (David Root)
HLT woes solved: summary ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

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instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:44:08 -0400
From: "Lemcke Keith" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com>
Subject: Win Siebel Institute Advanced Homebrewing Course from www.MoreBeer.com

I just wanted to let HBD members know that Beer, Beer & More Beer are
running a contest in which you can win tuition in our Advanced
Homebrewing Course in Durango, Colorado this July! You can get details
about the contest at http://morebeer.com/search/103629 and you can read
about the course at
http://www.siebelinstitute.com/course_desc/homebrewing.html .

I hope we will see you in Durango!

Keith Lemcke
Siebel Institute of Technology

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 17:17:42 -0700
From: "Keith Christian" <keithchristian at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Jellotin and Carbonation

Hi,

I have a cloudy beer and would like to hit it with gelatin. Will there
be any yeast available to carbonate my beer?

Thanks,

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:32:29 -0700
From: David Root <droot2 at rochester.rr.com>
Subject: I did it !

Well, I brewed a day early because I had my son to help move the kegs.

10 or so gallon batch

Strike temp about one twenty something.

I brought the temp up in steps to as high as 158 over the course of 2 hours

I had a little trouble getting my HLT up to the usual 180, so I stopped
at about 164
My system isn't the best and it was getting late already.

I ended up with about 13.5 gallons of wort to boil. Just enough room in
the 1/2 keg to keep it from
boiling over if I stirred well. OG before boil was 1.040 after temp
adjustment. Just what I was shooting
for.

First Wort Hops were the1 oz leaf hallertau in the boil kettle before I
started to sparge. Things went well
I only had to draw off about 2 cups before it ran clear. I use a 1/4"
piece of copper tube with a bunch of holes
drilled in it. It looks like a ? I stopped when the gravity was about
1.015. It still tasted sweet (my calibrated tongue)

Boil was 50 minutes because I had a projected bitterness of 30 IBU which
was a little high for the beer I am
attempting.

Cooled to 68 after the boil, I pitched the yeast in the fermenter then
drew off the boiled wort. All I could taste were HOPS

It was 12:30 AM
when I woke up my son to help carry the half keg into the house. I
covered the top with clear shrink wrap
and left it alone. after 16 hours I had signs of fermentation.

24 hours after that, the head had reached the shrink wrap and I thought
it might go over the top. It fell in a few hours.
Now I have a nice pancake of yeast on top. I think the bulk of the
fermentation is over. I will keg it this weekend.

Daym that was fun! Its been a LONG time and everything went as I
expected. The brewery performed exactly like
it always has with no modification and no problems. Now I have the
tools and skill to weld some stainless steel fittings
to my converted kegs instead of washers and gaskets.

I will report on the FG and how it tastes.

Probably do another batch in a couple weeks. I might even save some of
the yeast off the top.

David The BREWER R


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:28:05 +1000
From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <craftbrewer at lemis.com>
Subject: HLT woes solved: summary

A while back I sent out a message asking for help with stopping my HLT
from leaking round the hole for the heating coil, which is mounted on
the curved side of the pot. See
http://www.lemis.com/grog/diary-apr2009.php?topics=b#29 for more
details. A couple of people asked me to summarize the suggestions and
what I did, so here goes.

I got a number of answers, some in private, with varying suggestions:

Alternative placements: a number of people suggested drilling a hole
in the base of the pot. That solves the issue of the curved side of
the pot, but it adds others: in particular, you need a support for the
pot. And in my case, of course, I already have a hole in the side.

Others suggested flattening the side of the pot so that the surface of
the hole is plane. This is probably a good idea, but not the one I
chose.

Alan McKay suggested that the problem wouldn't arise with a big (64
litre) pot. Mine's 80, so it's not as simple as that.

Adam Griffths suggested an O ring on either side, and this is the
solution I finally adopted: a really fat one, silicone of course. See
http://www.lemis.com/grog/photos/Onephoto.php
?imagepath=/grog/Photos/20090528/O-ring.jpeg

(sorry, line length restrictions on hbd mean that I have to
artificially break that URL; you'll have to piece it together manually).

Greg
- --
Finger grog at FreeBSD.org for PGP public key.
See complete headers for address and phone numbers.


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5558, 05/27/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, May 25, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5557 (May 25, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5557 Mon 25 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Lagering Question and priming (Thomas Rohner)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
"subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
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for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:19:32 +0200
From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch>
Subject: Lagering Question and priming

I always add the priming solution directly off the burner. A small
amount of yeast, that comes in contact with the scalding hot solution
will certainly die, but there is still lots of living yeast to do the
job. While adding it, it drives some CO2 out of the almost flat beer,
building a blanket on the surface and driving out oxygen of out bottling
container. Then we turn the container 180 degrees back and forth a
couple of
times, venting off CO2 in between.(We use the same type of HDPE
container as our fermenters. It has a rounded rectangular footprint, so
turning agitates the mixture.)
We have consistent carbonation and no detectable oxydation issues. By
the way, about a year ago we switched from DME to plain beet sugar for
priming. We started it, because we didn't have any DME around at that
time, but we found it made no difference. Except in price and
availability...
We (our little brewclub) brewed 300+ 15gal all grain batches over the
last 10 years. This brings me to my question:


Lagering procedures

When we started brewing bottom fermented beer, we did it by the book.
(Primary, secondary, cold lagering and then bottling or kegging)
I know, how it's done professionally. Primary in conical, yeast
discharge, secondary(if at all) then transfer to pressure resistant
lagering tank for lagering and carbonation.
Since we have no pressure resistant fermenters or lagering tanks (except
kegs), we simplified the procedure.
Now we ferment(50F) only in the primary, do a diacetyl rest(60F) nearing
sugar depletion. This happens during the first week, then we cool it
down a little below fermentation temperature(46F) for another week.
After that, we transfer it off the yeast into the bottling container,
add the priming solution and bottle. After 1-2 weeks warm rest for
carbonation, we put it into our walk-in cooler at 37F for 1 to many
months. Of course, we sample the brews, starting after the carbonated
beer is cooled. It enhances a lot over the first month in cold
conditioning. Longer conditioning enhances it some more, but only slightly.

We reuse the lager yeast successfully up to 6 times.(after that, some
ales or wheats or belgians or ? are on our schedule)

Doing a lager the right way would prohibit bottle conditioning, as far
as i've read. Do you think, the way we do it is hurting the product?
We compare our beers with commercial examples quite often and we are
better than the average and => than the good ones from bavaria. Even a
brewmaster from a multi million barrel Austrian brewery who tasted it,
said he likes it better than the beer he has to brew...

What are your thoughts about our "lagering" procedures? Do you think,
doing it the "official right way" would enhance it considerably?
We are always striving for perfection, but also for simplicity...


Cheers Thomas

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5557, 05/25/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5556 (May 24, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5556 Sun 24 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
TOP-QUALITY TARGETED E-MAIL MARKETING LISTS!!!! /****L785u (Dan)
First Batch in a long time (David Root)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
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spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: 22 May 2009 21:54:14 -0700
From: Dan <ep2022 at ep2001.biz>
Subject: TOP-QUALITY TARGETED E-MAIL MARKETING LISTS!!!! /****L785u

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bGU+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 12:55:29 -0700
From: David Root <droot2 at rochester.rr.com>
Subject: First Batch in a long time

Its nice to see the digest still here. I have not brewed in about 9
years. tomorrow I am making an all grain 10? gallon batch .

I have

15 lbs US 2 row
1 lb crystal
1 lb torrified wheat for head retention.

1 oz German Hallertau leaf hops for first wort hopping

1 oz New Zealand hallertau (8.6) Leaf hops
1 oz US Willamette pellets

3 Qt Starter of 1007 bavarian yeast

All purchased fresh on friday.

JSP Maltmill (tm)

(2) 1/2 converted kegs and one 1/4 keg for cooking the grist.

Its been a long time, but I think I can handle it. The biggest part is
going to be cleaning all this stuff that has been
sitting in my garage for a "while".

Ferment will be open in a 1/2 keg with shrink wrap over the top
somewhere in my home.

I am going to the calculator just for fun and see what I will end up with.

I was reading this every day in the early 90 and brewing regularly. I
remember it being 23 pages on my dot matrix printer

David I'm gonna do it R.


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5556, 05/24/09
*************************************
-------

Friday, May 22, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5555 (May 22, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5555 Fri 22 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Priming with hot sugar solution ("John W. Zeller")
RE: Priming questions ("David Houseman")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
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for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go
instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK
before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content
cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to
req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 02:09:43 -0400
From: "John W. Zeller" <jwzell at current.net>
Subject: Priming with hot sugar solution

Chris North asked about the potential for problems with adding near
boiling priming solution to the wort. IMO adding it hot is probably a
better way to do it. A pint of hot sugar solution will disperse and
cool very quickly. The hot solution probably has a somewhat lower
viscosity which should make it slightly easier to mix. I really don't
know why I have been allowing the solution to cool. I think it's a
subconscious compulsive thing and maybe the result of making up starter
wort and it just mindlessly carried over. I won't be waiting for it to
cool from now on unless someone can convince me that there is a reason
not to do it that way. Thanks for pointing this out Chris!


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 07:51:56 -0400
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Priming questions

Chris,

You are correct, there is no need to cool the boiling sugar syrup before
using it. I put this directly into the bottom of the bottling bucket and
then siphon beer onto it. Yes, some yeast will die when they hit the hot
syrup but the syrup is quickly cooled and brought into equilibrium with the
cooler beer so it's not an issue. If you add boiling syrup to the bucket
of cool beer it will stratify until it cools and is mixed. You can see
this when you add very hot gelatin solution to a cold carboy of lagering
beer. The hot liquid stays toward the top of the carboy and as it cools it
mixes and the gelatin falls out of solution clearing the beer. One can
almost watch the beer clear. Steve, once cooled and mixed it will not
stratify and no further mixing is needed.

Dave Houseman

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5555, 05/22/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5554 (May 21, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5554 Thu 21 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

HBD Server Fund
PO Box 871309
Canton Township, MI 48187-6309

or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
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***************************************************************


Contents:
RE: Priming (stevesveil-hbd)
Re: Priming ("")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 14:14:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: stevesveil-hbd at yahoo.com
Subject: RE: Priming


I have a different question ...

After the priming solution has been mixed into the beer
can it stratify/separate? Do you need to keep mixing it?
Or is this just homebrew folk lore?

Thanks for any insight,
Steve Seeley
Shingle Springs, CA
Between Sacramento and Tahoe just off HW50

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:12:00 -0700
From: "" <chrisn at wt.net>
Subject: Re: Priming


I've been kegging for years now, but recently I've been priming my kegs,
mainly because getting my CO2 bottle filled has become more difficult.
I prime my kegs so I can use nature to carbonate instead of the bottle.
I will typically use 1/2 cup of table sugar, boiled in about 1-2 cups of
water, for a 5 gallon corny.

One practice I developed when I was bottling, but I have not seen in
this discussion, is adding the sugar syrup to the beer while hot; that
is, why cool it to room temperature? I'll siphon about a gallon into
the keg (or bottling bucket, when I was bottling), then add the near
boiling syrup. My reasoning is that a cup or two of boiling sugar
solution is going to be brought down to ambient pretty quickly when it
hits the beer, so what difference is it going to make? If it isn't
going to make any difference, then why spend the time and effort to
cool it?

Maybe the cold syrup has a harder time mixing with the beer.

I've been doing it this way for years, and I haven't noticed any
problem. Obviously, in the keg, it will eventually mix completely due
to diffusion, but I don't think the hot syrup is harming my beer. Is
there something I'm missing?

Chris North

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5554, 05/21/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5553 (May 20, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5553 Wed 20 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Priming sugar ("Bill & Sara Frazier")
RE: Priming ("David Houseman")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
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NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 22:32:06 -0500
From: "Bill & Sara Frazier" <bsfrazier at att.net>
Subject: Priming sugar

"The point is that without enough convection/agitation problems will occur.
-S"

For 5 gallon batches of beer I pump or siphon beer into a bottling bucket.
When there is an inch of beer in the bucket I add a previously boiled
solution of 3/4 cup corn sugar in 2 cups water. When all beer has been
added to the bucket I stir just enough to move the beer...no vortex. After
3 minutes I fill into bottles. For years this has given well carbonated
beer...no noticeable difference between carbonation bottle to bottle.

Bill Frazier
Olathe, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 07:35:36 -0400
From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Priming

Steve (-S) says "The point is that without enough convection/agitation
problems will occur." This is true. Although I haven't seen any studies
done to identify what "enough" is, my own experience matches John's and
Randall's and I'll postulate that for practical purposes "enough" is very
low. Simply pouring a boiled sugar syrup into the bottling bucket,
siphoning beer into the bucket and a few gentle stirs results in even
carbonation without oxidation. Quick, easy, effective. No science, just
experience.

David Houseman

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5553, 05/20/09
*************************************
-------

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5552 (May 19, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5552 Tue 19 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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***************************************************************


Contents:
Priming Spices (was: Priming Solutions) (Alexandre Enkerli)
RE: priming solutions ("Mike Patient")
RE: priming (Josh Knarr)
re: priming (steve alexander)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
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As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 01:28:34 -0400
From: Alexandre Enkerli <enkerli at gmail.com>
Subject: Priming Spices (was: Priming Solutions)

Has anybody put spices in their priming solution? If so, how did it work?

Coming late to the party, but I've been thinking about using priming
solutions as a way to impart different flavours. In the past, I've
primed with maple sugar and I was pretty sure that the maple flavour
was stronger than with other sugars. DIdn't do a side-by-side
experiment but the idea that different priming ingredients could work
to impart flavours stuck with me.

See, I'm brewing some spiced beers for my soulmate, these days. She
really loves spices.
A beer I've brewed recently was heavily spiced but seemed to her to be
lacking in spice flavours. Made me think.
For that batch, I put some spices near the end of the boil and some at
knock-off. Altogether, a rather large quantity and diversity of
spices. Bottled directly from primary (DME solution in bottling
bucket), thinking that some aromas might be lost in secondary.
(Besides, it finished rather low and was a lighter beer.) While spices
are very present in the beer, I could agree with "She For Whom I
Brewed" that some spices were hard to distinguish.

So I thought about syrups. Variations on "simple syrup," with added
flavourings. Thinking diverse spices including star anise, dill,
caraway, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.

One advantage with those flavoured syrups is that you only steep the
spices for a short amount of time, so it's easy to control against
overextraction (contrary to adding spices in the secondary). And
aroma/flavour compounds are released directly in the bottle, so
they're likely to remain present by the time the bottle is opened. And
it's quite easy to do.
Another well-known option is to do a potion, but I didn't really like
the results when I tried it.

So... Thoughts?

Cheers!

Ale-X in Laval, Apparent Rennerian Coordinates [888km, 62.5]
http://www.informalethnographer.com/


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 07:18:13 -0400
From: "Mike Patient" <mpatient at rta.biz>
Subject: RE: priming solutions

Everyone has their level of comfort with adding the priming solution. If
you don't feel comfortable yet mixing in the priming solution, or siphoning
the beer into it, perhaps you would feel better taking the time to put the
solution evenly among all the containers. If you are using bottles I have
found that a normal turkey baster usually works fine. Figure out how much
solution needs to go in each container and measure out the amount, if your
baster doesn't come with the appropriate lines on it, take a marker and draw
one. This is a good was to insure even distribution. Don't forget to give
the bottle a light shake to mix it around. I usually just tip mine over a
few times lightly.

The important thing is to make sure the sugar gets boiled and is free of
contamination. Also, the solution is often faster, and much less of a mess.

I am new to this HBD, I really enjoy the service it provides.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:30:19 -0400
From: Josh Knarr <josh.knarr at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: priming

Speaking of the topic - I'm buying a house with a basement so I
finally have a chance to do some lagering and belgians.

What's anyone's experience and newbie advice for lagering? About
belgians? I've always been curious to experiment with priming yeast -
anyone do that? Having read BLaM, it doesn't cover it in technical
depth. They simply say they do it or give it a fresh yeast slug.

Thanks,
Josh

- --

P. J. O'Rourke - "Never fight an inanimate object."


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 11:46:37 -0400
From: steve alexander <steve-alexander at roadrunner.com>
Subject: re: priming

John W.. says ...
> I boil a pint of water with the priming sugar for about
> ten minutes. I then put the priming solution into the bottling bucket
> and rack the beer on top of it. The priming solution gets mixed as the
> beer flows into the bucket. I then stir the beer well, but also gently
> to minimize exposure to the air.

Randall R makes a very similar suggestion.

You'll find many reports in the archive that the "syrup" simply readily
mix to a uniform state with the beer. Inconsistent carbonation probably
due to non-homogeneity is the result. Obviously John's & Randall's
method works for them, but then we don't have any quantifiable handle
on the strength of his "syrup", the force & duration of his siphon or
the amount of 'gentle stirring' involved. I don't see how this
contradicts Fred's comment.

The point is that without enough convection/agitation problems will occur.

-S


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5552, 05/19/09
*************************************
-------

Monday, May 18, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5551 (May 18, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5551 Mon 18 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
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FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
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tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Priming Solutions ("John W. Zeller")
Re: priming solutions (Randall Ricchi)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
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As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 01:13:57 -0400
From: "John W. Zeller" <jwzell at current.net>
Subject: Priming Solutions

Fred Johnson commented on the use of sugar priming solutions. Well
Fred, here's the way I do it. It's really simple and has worked very
well for me. I boil a pint of water with the priming sugar for about
ten minutes. I then put the priming solution into the bottling bucket
and rack the beer on top of it. The priming solution gets mixed as the
beer flows into the bucket. I then stir the beer well, but also gently
to minimize exposure to the air. I figure that any small amount of
oxygen introduced during the bottling process will be scavenged up by
the yeast fairly rapidly. My bottled beers are typically well and
uniformly carbonated. I see no reason to change my method of priming
and bottling, but thanks for the suggestion anyway.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:45:07 -0400
From: Randall Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Re: priming solutions

Fred L Johnson writes:

> there is
no way one can evenly distribute a concentrated sugar solution into a
batch of beer without significant stirring or long periods of time<

I have to disagree. My standard method of priming (330 batches and
counting) is to dissolve the priming sugar in 12 oz of water and add it
to the beer at the beginning of the transfer (by siphon) from secondary
to the bottling bucket (actually, a SS kettle).

My siphon hose is long enough that it lays on the bottom of the kettle,
following the curve of the kettle. The beer flowing from the tube
creates a very gentle whirlpool (no vortex). When transfer is complete,
I stir the beer gently once or twice with the racking cane and then
bottle. I have never had uneven results with this method, nor do I have
oxidation problems.


------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5551, 05/18/09
*************************************
-------

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5550 (May 17, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5550 Sun 17 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


***************************************************************
TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Sponsor The Home Brew Digest!
Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how

Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a
501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the
FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations
can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to:

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PO Box 871309
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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any
amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible
under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your
tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available
sponsorship opportunities.
***************************************************************


Contents:
Re: priming solutions (Fred L Johnson)
"Spirit of Free Beer" Homebrew Competition Results ("Mark Hogenmiller")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

NOTE: With the economy as it is, the HBD is struggling to
meet its meager operating expenses of approximately $3400
per year. If less than half of those currently directly
subscribed to the HBD sent in a mere $5.00, the HBD would
be able to easily meet its annual expenses, with room to
spare for next year. Please consider it.

As always, donors and donations are publicly acknowledged
and accounted for on the HBD web page. THank you


Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

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instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright
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More information is available by sending the word "info" to
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 06:44:23 -0400
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: priming solutions

Regarding the recommendations for priming a batch of beer, there is
no way one can evenly distribute a concentrated sugar solution into a
batch of beer without significant stirring or long periods of time,
so the recommendation to prime in the fermentor before racking off
the settled yeast will only result in unevenly primed beer or
essentially fully resuspended yeast.

There are ways to precisely prime each bottle using a concentrated
solution of sugar and a pipetting device--my standard method. Priming
each bottle minimizes introduction of air into the batch.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 16:34:01 -0400
From: "Mark Hogenmiller" <mehogenmiller at verizon.net>
Subject: "Spirit of Free Beer" Homebrew Competition Results

Brewers United For Real Potables (BURP) completed the 17th Annual Nation's
Capital "Spirit of Free Beer" Homebrew Competition at the Whole Foods Market
Fair Lakes located in Fairfax, VA on May 16, 2009. Spirit of Free Beer, for
the 12th year in a row, served as one of the Qualifying Events for the
Masters
Championship for Amateur Brewing (MCAB).

The Best of show winners are:
1st Place Mike McGuire Club: BURP
Weizen - 15 A "Whisker Biscuit"

2nd Place Piet Huiberts Club: FOAM
Belgian Tripel - 18 C "Traditional Tripel"

3rd Place Mel Thompson, Ty Ming Club: BURP
Foreign Extra Stout - 13 D "Syphilitic Stout"

Complete results are posted at the BURP at
http://www.burp.org/events/sofb/2009/results.asp BURP would also like to
thank all our sponsors and encourage all home brewers to visit the sponsor
page at http://www.burp.org/events/sofb/2009/sponsors.asp?yr=2009

SOFB XVII Team
events at burp.org

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5550, 05/17/09
*************************************
-------

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5549 (May 14, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5549 Thu 14 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
Re: Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes (Joe Walts)
Re: Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes (Calvin Perilloux)
priming solutions ("Mike Patient")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 08:26:51 -0500
From: Joe Walts <jwalts at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes

Hey Bill, the reason for reduced priming sugar rates is because of
decreases in headspace. Headspaces need to be "carbonated" just like
the beer, and a full cornie keg will have a lot less total headspace
than an equivalent volume of beer in bottles. That said, I think the
standard adjustment (using 1/4 less sugar or something like that)
overcompensates. Your standard priming calculations will be very
close if you work with vessel volumes instead of liquid volumes.

Joe
Madison, WI


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 06:44:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes


Regarding regarding priming kegs:

"There seems to be a difference of opinion about whether
it is necessary to adjust the amount of priming sugar for
larger bottles or kegs. [...] I'm wondering if this is
largely a myth."

Bill, I think you are correct. Given a properly filled
keg versus a properly filled bottle, there is no theoretical
reason the carbonation sugar should be substantially different.
Indeed, in my own practical experience, priming kegs with
the same ratio of corn sugar as bottling results in the
carbonation level that I would expect.

The exception is when I rush to keg something, which I am
sometimes more prone to do with kegging, like when an event
demands beer "soon". In those cases, I sometimes tend to
not wait long enough to ensure fermentation is 100% done,
and hence in my hurried batches, I've had some overcarbonation.
Perhaps actions like this are where the myth started (in
addition to Bill's point of lower carbonation in cask ales).

Even when I do rush a beer, I've been able to predict my
impending overcarbonation by drawing a sample at kegging
time and holding it at room temperature for some days.
If it drops substantially in gravity, I know I've kegged
it too early. Maybe I should use Clinitest more often
when doing that.

By the way, Bill, perhaps in support of your arguments
about oxidation/etc., I notice that my bottle conditioned
versions of my beer seem to hold up better than my kegged
ones over the long haul, at least at cold temperatures.
I've had delicate lagers hold their finesse for over a
year in the bottle. But perhaps that's because I can
keep the bottles at 31 F, whereas the kegs are in the
35-38 F range. Or perhaps it's the oxygen-scavenging
action of the yeast, as you point out. Or both.

Calvin Perilloux
Middletown, Maryland, USA


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 14:12:07 -0400
From: "Mike Patient" <mpatient at rta.biz>
Subject: priming solutions

In reply to priming sugar amounts:

John Palmer recommends in his book "How to Brew" that priming
should be done as a solution, and added to the fermentor after
fermentation.

The best way to prime your beer is to mix your priming sugar into
the whole batch prior to bottling. This ensures that all the bottles
will be carbonated the same. Some books recommend adding
1 tsp. of sugar directly to the bottle for priming.
This is not a good idea because it is time consuming and imprecise.
Bottles may carbonate unevenly and explode.
Plus there is a greater risk of infection because the sugar
has not been boiled. The exception to these rules is to use PrimeTabs'.

Here's how to make and add priming solutions:
1. Boil 3/4 cup of corn sugar (4 oz by weight), or 2/3 cup of white sugar,
or 1 and 1/4 cup dry malt extract in 2 cups of water and let it cool.

You can add the priming solution in either of two ways, depending
on your equipment; I prefer the first (2a).

2a. If you have a bottling bucket gently pour the priming solution into it.
Using a sanitized siphon, transfer the beer into the sanitized bottling
bucket.
Place the outlet beneath the surface of the priming solution.
Do not allow the beer to splash because you don't want to add
oxygen to your beer at this point. Keep the intake end of the
racking tube an inch off the bottom of the fermenter to leave
the yeast and sediment behind.

2b. If you don't have a bottling bucket, open the fermenter
and gently pour the priming solution into the beer.
Stir the beer gently with a sanitized spoon, trying to
mix it in evenly while being careful not to stir up the
sediment too much. Wait a half hour for the sediment
to settle back down and to allow more diffusion of the
priming solution to take place. Use a bottle filler
attachment with the siphon to make the filling easier.


He gives amounts of sugars, but his example is a 5 gallon batch:


I have tried this and it seems a pretty even way to distribute your
priming sugar across all containers, no matter the size.
Be careful though, you don't want to introduce oxygen at this stage.

Hope this helps,
Mike

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5549, 05/14/09
*************************************
-------

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Homebrew Digest #5548 (May 13, 2009)

HOMEBREW Digest #5548 Wed 13 May 2009


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250
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***************************************************************


Contents:
Ken Schwartz's Brewing Web Page has moved ("Ken Schwartz")
Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes ("Bill Pierce")


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* The HBD Logo Store is now open! *
* http://www.hbd.org/store.html *
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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
and Spencer Thomas


----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 12:47:15 -0600
From: "Ken Schwartz" <kenbob at elp.rr.com>
Subject: Ken Schwartz's Brewing Web Page has moved

Road Runner changed their hosted web addresses a while back. For
informational & search purposes here is the new address:

http://home.roadrunner.com/~brewbeer


Ken Schwartz


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 09:46:06 -0400
From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce at aol.com>
Subject: Priming sugar amounts for larger volumes

I've been wrestling with thoughts about priming sugar for some time
now. My standard procedure is to naturally carbonate all of my
beers, even those that I keg. I've come to believe that the
fermentation of the priming sugar helps to purge oxygen introduced
during bottling/kegging, which promotes stability and retards
staling of the beer.

For several years now I've been using ordinary white table sugar
(corn or beet) for priming. I notice no cidery or other off-flavors
whatsoever resulting from this. I do find that it requires a
slightly smaller amount than if I used corn sugar to achieve the
same level of carbonation. The standard corn sugar used by
homebrewers and for baking is dextrose monohydrate, which has one
molecule of water bound to a molecule of glucose. If you do the
math with the atomic weights of both molecules (18/198), the result
is a water content of 9.09 percent. Therefore if you prime with
table sugar it requires 90.9 percent the amount of corn sugar to
achieve the same level of carbonation. This is the value I have
factored into the carbonation calculations in my brewing
spreadsheet, and indeed the results in my beers seem quite accurate
(I weigh the calculated amount of priming sugar to the nearest
gram).

Now the question arises as to the volume of my bottles and kegs. I
have a number of kegs, mostly standard 5 gallon corny kegs, but also
some 3 gallon cornies and several 15.5 and 7.75 gallon Sanke kegs.
As for bottles, most are approximately 12 US fluid ounces (a variety
of comparable metric sizes as well), but I often also fill several 2
liter plastic soda bottles from each batch. These are convenient
for taking beer elsewhere or for bottles that are consumed
relatively quickly at home during family dinners or with guests.

There seems to be a difference of opinion about whether it is
necessary to adjust the amount of priming sugar for larger bottles
or kegs. Some people feel that using the calculated amount of
priming sugar for these large containers results in excessive
carbonation. They cite the fact that cask ales and 5 liter minikegs
should be primed with half the amount or less of the sugar you would
use for 12 ounce bottles.

I'm wondering if this is largely a myth. My kegs and 2 liter
bottles do not seem overcarbonated compared to their smaller
brethren. So my question is really if it is correct practice to
reduce the amount of priming sugar for larger containers, and if so
by what amount. If the effect of the larger container is indeed
real, it should be measurable, able to be calculated, and the
correct factor used in the carbonation calculations.

What does the collective think about this? Inquiring minds want to
know.

Bill Pierce
Cellar Door Homebrewery
Burlington, Ontario

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #5548, 05/13/09
*************************************
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