FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: removing hot break/cold break material (Randy Ricchi)
No Chilling (rickdude)
RE hot break (David Root)
No chill brewing comment (Joshua Pack)
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Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2012 08:26:37 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Re: removing hot break/cold break material
I use pellet hops, and an immersion chiller. I usually brew 8 gallon
batches, boiling in a stainless half barrel. After chilling, I put the boiler
up on a table and stir like crazy (sanitized spoon) until I get a really good
vortex. I cover the boiler and let it sit for an hour and a half. I then
siphon clear wort out to the fermentor (a 10 gallon SS pot), pitch the yeast,
Oxygenate (pure O2), put the lid on, and ferment. The break material and
pellet spooge and wort left behind is usually 2 to 3 quarts so out of an 8
gallon batch I'm getting 7.25 to 7.5 gallons of clear wort in the fermentor.
Not sure how many years I have been doing it this way, but it's been a long
time. Works for me.
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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 08:43:30 -0400
From: rickdude at tds.net
Subject: No Chilling
I am really looking forward to the results of David's chill/no-chill test.
But more than that, I'm thinking I might try it out for a Pre-Prohibition
Pilsner.
Rick
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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 06:37:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Root <david_root2000 at yahoo.com>
Subject: RE hot break
Mike asked about transferring hot break.
I use whole hops. I have a 6" long 1/4" copper line going IN from
the drain cock (ball valve) on the bottom of my 1/2 keg with the top cut
out.
I drilled a small hole across the end of the tube. I then insert a small
wire about the size of an unfolded paper clip into the hole. Then I put
on a copper pot scrubber or Curly Cate. The hops and copper scrubber make
for a filter.
Gravity drains my kettle.
David
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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:29:53 +0000
From: Joshua Pack <Joshua.Pack at kbz.com>
Subject: No chill brewing comment
>From what I understand about No Chill Brewing, this does not mean you just
let it sit around for a few days.
They use the practice a lot in Australia. The idea is to get a heat
resistant container that you can seal airtight. You take your brew directly
from the boil to the sanitized container and seal it. The heat of the wort
should kill anything in the container that he sanitizer missed. Seal the
container and store it somewhere at a stable room temp. This should give you
a culture free wort just waiting for a yeast to pitch in. When you are ready
to pitch and ferment, just take the wort from you container, toss it in a
primary, top up with water if you were partial or extract brewing, pitch
yeast and oxygenate. There are some folks that have waited up to one year to
start fermenting with no issues, but the consensus seems to be 3-6 months max
before throwing away the air-sealed, non-fermenting wort.
They actually have food grade plastic cubes for just this thing. Makes it
easy if you're brewing at a buddies house and don't want to transport a
primary and all that it entails.
All that being said, my grandfather used to brew beer back in the day and
his primary was a large crock pot with no lid and a cheese cloth over the
fermenting beer. He got good beer. He also had issues with strange flavors
and exploding bottles. Basically he had a bet that his yeast could outcompete
with anything else that might have gotten into his wort. Sometimes he won and
he had great beer. Sometimes he lost and cleaned up exploded bottles. But he
almost never got the same beer twice.
Joshua Pack
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #5932, 04/04/12
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